The MGF Register Forums

Didn’t work.. I think the arm has either sheared or the bolt in the fork has come loose. Guess I’m dropping the engine then! Gives me chance to replace the clutch and tidy things up a bit so not all bad

Hi Rob, Thanks for that. Yes the arm is moving but the clutch itself is not. So it’s stuck in the engaged position. Car has not moved for a year and the clutch was already stiff before. I jumped in it, put my foot on the clutch and it immediately popped the seal in the slave. So iv not got the arm m...

Hey guys, Been a while since iv posted as car has been off the road but.. the clutch release arm was seized when I went to move it. Iv managed to free it off using a tube and lube in the usual way however even though the arm is moving the clutch itself is not opening. Seems to be clamped in the clos...

Hi Mike,

Definitely had no PM from you.

Been waiting for delivery of my new exhaust which I now have. Few others interested but if it does not sell I will let you know.

Karl

Forgot to mention it's for the later F or TF model not early.

Selling my Milltek back box. Good condition. Slight dent in underside but other than that it's good to go. Going Daytona as the Milltek is... EXTREME!!! If you like it loud your love this exhaust. Especially with a de cat as iv been running for last few years but it's just to uncivilised for my tast...

Iv never driven another one which doesn't help! But it definitely feels a bit flat below 5k rpm. The difference when it comes on cam is fairly significant. Reminds me of my mates old civic type r tbh. Not quite as aggressive a change but very noticeable. I'm thinking of putting the cat back on and s...

An interesting option. I would not be confident resetting the cam timing myself though which I would imagine would be fairly critical with a longer cam.
4-2-1 are £500 now which I would consider tbh if it would make an improvement

uprated head gasket fitted at 36k so hopefully won't need another one for some time...

TBH it's not a daily driver so when it does go I can do it myself and it's not the end of the world

Hey guys, I am fairly new here. I have posted a few times before when having issues and have found you all to be very helpful. I know this has been covered a million times but.. looking for a little advice from people who have done it all before. I have a TF 160. Great car that a love to bits. She's...

Hi mat, Right Iv just tested the sensor again so as to be 100% sure it's not a bad sensor and I'm measuring 9ohm resistance on the heater circuit. Iv read if should be around 6ohm. Would this make any difference to the operation of the sensor? Would the ECU sense this higher resistance? Mark at Kmap...

Has anyone on here had any experience diagnosing ECU errors? With the help of Matgriff I believe I have an issue with the o2 sensor heater circuit grounding within the ECU.

Any help and advice would be gladly received.

Karl

Hi Mat, Ok I understand. That's a shame as would have been a simple check to confirm my problem. The ecu was remapped by Mark at zandf tuning. He has done many of these and also was involved in the original mapping at Rover. I will drop him an email shorty and see if he can help. The car was remappe...

Ok I think I get it! :D So I did perform the tests correctly. Yes it appears that for some reason the ecu is not switching to ground. If I where to test continuity between the black switched wire and chassis ground with the sensor disconnected i could confirm this couldn't i?? By switching the ignit...

Yes so with the -ve multimeter grounded to chassis I tested the brown/pink wire and with ignition on got 12v. I then performed the next test with the sensor connected and I still had 12v on the feed wire. I then tested the switch wire and I still had 12v. Obviously to me now, of course I would as th...

Hi Mat,

The more and more I think about it the more and more it confuses me! I'm not particularly electrically minded...

I performed the tests with the sensor connected as you advised but I don't really understand what the results mean.

Sorry if I sound thick!

Karl

Hi Mat, All test performed and it appears that the ECU switched output has indeed failed. I got 12v to feed but also 12v on the switched output wire when grounded to chassis. Continuity back to the plug was good. I guessing it's a new ecu next then?.. Hopefully that will cure my problem! Thanks for ...

Hi Mat,

Ok, about to give that a go. I'll let you know how I get on.. Good to know that my wiring is correct as I was about to start cutting and splicing!

Thanks for your help,

Cheers,

Karl

You see my problem.. So Rimmers tell me that the sensor plug in this picture is wired correctly (bottom plug). Meaning the plug on the loom is not. As you can see in this configuration the two greens from the loom are connecting to the black & grey of the sensor. Hence why I beleive its not working ...

Great link by the way.

Thank you talkingcars