The MGF Register Forums

Don't worry I will, but I'm hopeful the original will be okay

My choice
1st Toyo by a mile
2nd Falken

Thanks for that. The original head gasket was replace in 2006 at 30000KM then as mentioned above when it had traveled 61000KM.
I do have a spare head but was used in a race F, which could have been well cooked!!!
Will have to try the sniffer test...............

Well last weekend was hot, 35C. All through the motorkhana event some nine events the temp gauge stayed just below half way. All the fans seemed to be working as I had the aircon on. Drove the 12KM home most on the free way at 100kmh. Drove up the drive parked in the garage turned the engine off.The...

I have on my TF160 a Daytona from Mike Satur complete with exhaust and inlet manifold. This coupled with an upgraded ECU, the complete pop and burble. To say i'm happy is an understatement.

Try this link, step by step instructions

http://www.mgfcar.de/gearbox/clutch_replacement_MGF.htm

This is the Australian kit, try this link - http://www.rv8mg.com.au/gallery/SPARE%2BPARTS/mgf-spring-conversion-kit/45110 It costs more than the Suplex kit but is far better, I would go with re-gassing the spheres and decent shocks. Cheaper and the old suspension was a very good idea. Dont forget to...

MrNatural wrote:So should I go for standard or spax dampers?

I would upgrade the shocks BUT reinforce the mounting brackets, I must admit I went over the top but the car did a lot of hill climbs and sprints.
try this
http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/

The MG f chamber of horrors

Very nice work, we are lucky that we dont need a roll cage for hill climbs or club sprints.
I do have a half cage though were not allowed side bars on a road car!

To everyone a very safe and Happy New Year for 2017.

1) Low coolant alarm - preferably the B&G kit for complete peace of mind, which allows you to keep your eyes on the road rather than the water gauge. 2) Decent tyres - I used Toyo RIR's. 3) Servo bracket - makes a great difference to brake feel and if anybody doubts the need for it, see the frighte...

Excellent work Rob

I had on my original F 'X P'wer Hoops ' with a windstop, bur plastic rear window.
Now have half roll cage, still with plastic window BUT no windstop

I think everyone assumes that all the gauges on the mgf and TF are the same. It seems apparent that they aren't. On all the F and TF's I have owned ( 6 ) the water temp gauge sits just below the half way mark on both road and high speed track days. The oil temp has always shown higher on the TF.

Fitted stage two re mapped ECU, seems a little quicker, certainly revs 7750 before cut out and snap crackle and pops on over run!
Have to wait a few weeks to see in compitition.

RSR92 wrote:Hello, there's a lot of threads about this already on the forum here. It's likely related to the seals in the master and slave cylinders; just do a search at the top of the page and you should be able to find the answer

Try the slave cylinder first, but whilst getting dirty do both!

I have run 210 size tyres all round for over 10 years be it 15 or 16 they all catch /rub on the front on full lock, I just live with it not a real problem... Andrew, what brand and size are the 210's. . Ooops -- Should have read 205/45 Toyo R1R's now 205/40 Kumho V70A This much more a track day tyr...

I have run 210 size tyres all round for over 10 years be it 15 or 16 they all catch /rub on the front on full lock, I just live with it not a real problem...

The " Auto " box was only fitted to the lowly powered cars 120HP and as they were not as popular as the manual I would think it would be cheaper to pick up a 2002 model......

I never noticed any pulling one way or the other.
I have lost the back end suddenly in high speed corners but spun in its own length with out damage, except to my underwear!
I always had tremendous confidence with the LSD on track or road