These are the main component parts and their connection sizes..
1 Hydraulic hand pump. 1/4 male BSP
2 Schrader low loss connector. 1/8 NPT male
3 Refrigerant charging manifold/gauges. Red Blue Yellow hoses all AN-4 JIC female
4 Vacuum pump. plastic 5 and 8mm tube
Hydraulic Hand Pump.
The hand pump is from a Draper car body jacking kit that I had hanging around the work shop. I like it because it has proper hydraulic quick connectors and a nice pressure release knob. It can also be filled via a dipstick hole in the rear of the case that can be connected by tube to a can of hydralastic fluid.
This allows for safe connection to the cars hydralastic system schrader valve's which are located under the black plastic cover in the spare wheel bay. There are two, one each for the off side front/rear sphere's and near side front/rear sphere's
Refrigerant charging manifold. AN-4 JIC Female
Allows easy cross connection of vacuum and hydraulic pumps to car via low loss connector. System pressure and vacuum can be observed via gauges.
Allows for the evacuation of fluid and air from the vehicle's hydralastic system.
The refrigerant charging manifold allows fluid to leave the car and go to the vacuum pump reservoir and to enter the car via the hydraulic pump by opening and closing of the two in built valves. The Vac side is blue and the pressure side is red. It has 3 colour coded hose's each with an AN-4 female JIC connector. The middle connector is common and is connected to the yellow hose.
The Schrader low loss connector connects to the yellow hose. Screw a male AN-4 JIC to 1/8 NPT fitting to the yellow female hose fitting. Connect the male 1/8 NPT fitting on the LLC to the hose via a 1/8 x 1/8 NPT coupler.
The vacuum pump is connected to the blue hose via a 8mm plastic tube. Screw a male AN-4 JIC to 1/4 NPT fitting to the blue female hose fitting, push the 8mm plastic tube from the vac pump on to the 1/4 NPT barb tail fitting. Connect the two together with a 1/4 x 1/4 NPT coupler.
Note , NPT thread's self seal with some thread seal (or ptfe tape ) but the straight parallel BSP threads do need PTFE tape.
The hydraulic pump has a dip stick screwed in to the back of the cylinder, this is removed and replaced by 100mm or so of 8mm plastic tube which is screwed in tight enough to seal. Push some 5mm tube into the 8mm tube and put in to hydralastic fluid container. (The plastic tube comes with the Silverline vac pump)
Before use the Hydraulic pump needs to be purged of hydraulic oil and cleaned by flushing with detergent. (fairy liquid works well)
It then needs to be filled and primed with Hydralastic fluid, it helped to use a large syringe to prime the pump.
I used a commercial fluid brand but basically it's a 50/50 mix of water and alcohol with some anti freeze and anti rust compounds added.
Operation
To discharge the system
On the Fridge manifold gauge close the red valve and open the blue valve. Connect the Schrader LLC (tap fully counter clockwise ) to the cars Schrader valve and gently nip up with a spanner. Check that the vacuum tube is connected to the reservoir.
Gradually turn the tap of the LLC clockwise until pressure can be heard releasing through the hose and fluid being present in the manifold sight glass. The vacuum pump reservoir will start to fill with fluid. Once the pressure has been released the vacuum pump can be operated to draw the fluid out of the system. The Vacuum gauge will indicate a negative vacuum pressure. When fully evacuated turn the tap on the LLC counter clockwise and remove from the Schrader valve.
To fill and pressurise the car's system with a fully primed pump and purged lines.
Close the blue valve on the manifold and open the red valve.
Check the LLC tap is fully counter clock wise and connect to the car's Schrader valve and gently nip up.
Check the pressure release hand valve on the pump is fully shut. ( clock wise)
Operate the hand pump, pressure will be felt to build as you pump and a visual pressure indication will be seen on the pressure gauge. As pressure increases the Schrader valve core will lift and allow fluid in to the car's system. As the system fill's pressure will start to increase as you pump, between 300 to 400 psi should be observed depending on ride height.
Before the LLC is removed from the car be sure to dump the pressure in the line by operating the hand pump's release valve or high pressure fluid will spurt out as you remove it.
I individualised my trophy sphere's by adding a separate Schrader valve to each one and the observed pressure was around 350 PSI at the correct ride height.
Doing this probably makes the car more uncomfortable to drive but allows for a better set up.
This is where I would expect the pressure to be but each car is different and the ambient temperature also effects pressure and ride height.
Hopefully that's it, total cost less than £80 plus the pump I already had. Apologies for any mistakes I'm sure there must be some but I hope that you get the general idea.
Cheers Paul.
