Engine Management Light

[talkingcars]

.....Your key fob is a replacement intended for a later MG.

MG ZS and MG ZR of the same vintage had remote boot release so I'd assume this is a replacement case intended for one of these.

[JAMOCON]

Thanks for the information Mark! Cheers, James

[JAMOCON]

Anyone help? Just broken down roadside with RAC on the way! Weird though. Firstly the battery warning light came on (Red Steady On), then the ABS warning and then SRS and then the little steering wheel warning light in red! Then the car just stopped and everything went dead! Any ideas anyone? Had a new battery fitted a few months back but since then the car has been going great! Cheers, James

[talkingcars]

Alternator has failed and the battery has run out of juice to keep the car powered.

[JAMOCON]

Thanks. It’s funny though. The car will run and start but then the dash lights up like a Christmas tree! Battery still fully charged.. it’s mysterious.. maybe needs a new alternator as you say.. but will a fault reader tell me much about it? Now on recovery truck! Cheers for your help. James

[JAMOCON]

Update. Home safe with the help of a friendly recovery driver. But I think you were right. Battery now completely flat so it is definitely pointing towards the charging system (alternator). I suppose the low charge in the battery makes the electrical system go haywire! Many thanks, James

[talkingcars]

You're welcome, I hope you get it sorted quickly.

[JAMOCON]

Thanks again. Just as an update, I’ve booked the car in at a local garage as my nearest MG specialist (Brown and Gammons in Hitchen, Hertfordshire) couldn’t do the job for 2 weeks. Looks like changing an alternator on a MGTF is not the easiest being a mid engined car so I’m leaving it to my local friendly professional mechanic. Been quoted just over £400 including the part though Does that sound reasonable? Cheers again, James

[talkingcars]

£400 does sound very keen - the alternator can be bought outright from Rimmer Brothers for under £120 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID018926 so you are looking at £300 for labour. I am not a pro but I managed to do mine in a couple of hours last year.

There are only 2 bolts holding the alternator in place which can be accessed through the engine hatch.

Make sure they fit a new alternator belt for that price and it's worth fitting a rose jointed adjuster.

[JAMOCON]

Thanks very much for taking the time to write. I really want the car back on the road ASAP so might have to bite the bullet on the £400 due to my own time constraints! Thanks again for your valuable advice. Cheers, James

[JAMOCON]

Car back and just in time for the sunny weather although I’ve kept the hardtop on as it’s very chilly in the mornings! Now running like a dream. £348 all in and less than the quote so I’m happy..

[talkingcars]

Pleased you are back on the road, now get that roof off and enjoy the fresh air, the heater will keep you warm in the morning.

[JAMOCON]

Sure will thanks. The pesky engine management light is back on again though! Cheers!

[JAMOCON]

I now have a new issue. These problems with MGTF’s seem to come out of the blue! Car won’t lock remotely but the alarm arms itself. If I press the unlock button on my fob the door buttons raise slightly which seems to suggest that the locking buttons/pins are working properly? Any ideas anyone!?? Cheers, James

[JAMOCON]

Regarding the locking issue. It’s a strange one. The problem certainly seems to point to the locking mechanism and not the alarm or central locking. Got the door card off. Plastic door cover has already been pulled back in that area. So not a good sign that potentially someone has already been in there! Fiddled with everything and even got the alarm working as it should! Central locking motor now activating the door locking pin as it should. Managed to accidentally dead lock the car with the door open (by activating the clasp thingy) so of course the door would not close! Disconnected the battery and pulled the interior door handle whilst turning the lock and hey presto it released! Phew! To tell you the truth I am rambling here because I am not entirely sure how I fixed the issue but it’s all working again but I cannot explain exactly how! Lubricated the door clasp thingy (that locks on the door pin) and all seems ok for now. Fingers crossed. I suppose my question is that I want to lubricate all of the internal locking components inside the door but what should I use? I’m guessing that WD40 is too wet and should I use white grease or something? Anything else recommended? Any advice would be gratefully received. Cheers, James