TF Race Car Build
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- talkingcars
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Slightly but at a much bigger risk of bending one.
Home to black Alfa 159 3.2 V6 Q4, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and grey MGF 1.8i, and red MG Maestro T16.
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Re: TF Race Car Build
I was thinking of using cds, tube is stiffer than bar as the forces go around the outside of the tube.talkingcars wrote:Slightly but at a much bigger risk of bending one.
- Rob Bell
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Re: TF Race Car Build
No idea! They took a lot of weight out of the inside - but probably no more than we have done. To cut another 100kg is pretty remarkable. Next time I see Andy Kitson, I'll have to give him the full interrogation!flyingbanana wrote:Does anyone know how VHS managed to get their TF down to 875kg?
http://www.vehiclehandlingsolutions.com ... y_cars.htm
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Re: TF Race Car Build
I have sent VHS an email asking how they did it - not really expecting a reply though. Will be removing the door impact bars for a little weight loss.
- mgtfnut
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Re: TF Race Car Build
You could try the rear lower radius arms, the ones from the hub to the middle of the subframe, they are solid bar and weigh a lot.
Jerry
MG TF 135 - 101k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 138k
MG TF 135 - 101k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 138k
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- Rob Bell
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Looks great!
- Rob Bell
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Anyone make lightweight replacements?mgtfnut wrote:You could try the rear lower radius arms, the ones from the hub to the middle of the subframe, they are solid bar and weigh a lot.
- mgtfnut
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Rob Bell wrote:Anyone make lightweight replacements?mgtfnut wrote:You could try the rear lower radius arms, the ones from the hub to the middle of the subframe, they are solid bar and weigh a lot.
Just weighed a rear lower radius arm - 1.05Kg each x2.
Male threads both ends and it wouldn't be difficult to transplant to a tube.
Jerry
MG TF 135 - 101k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 138k
MG TF 135 - 101k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 138k
- Rob Bell
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Re: TF Race Car Build
What material? Not being an engineer, I wouldn't know what material to select for the purpose (or indeed the thickness of the tube).
I do know a man who would know though
I do know a man who would know though
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Well the tube would need to be the same ID as the OD of the threaded part 1.5 mm wall thickness should be fine. although you would need to machine shoulders on it so it can fit into the tube to make a stronger joint. It will be a weight saving but I doubt it would be worth the effort - the subframe is the way to go to lose weight.
- Rob Bell
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Re: TF Race Car Build
I agree with you regarding the subframes. I have an idea for making one up in tube after making jigs from good front and rear subframes... Not something I have ever attempted before though and would need to practice my welding rather more!!!
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- Rob Bell
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Quite pricy, but I guess you get what you pay for: they look nicely fabricated!
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Oh I wouldn't pay for one, but as an idea for building one.Rob Bell wrote:Quite pricy, but I guess you get what you pay for: they look nicely fabricated!
- Rob Bell
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Re: TF Race Car Build
True! I really like the idea of building my own. Use a standard subframe to build a "negative jig" and then build to that, keeping the standard geometry (that is a class requirement). My trouble is that I wouldn't know how to specify the tube diameters/ thicknesses (not a structural engineer, dammit!)
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Re: TF Race Car Build
25mm od tube with no more than 2mm wall thickness, 1.5mm would probably be about right.
- Rob Bell
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Re: TF Race Car Build
CDS I presume?
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Nope, ERW is fine - thats what LoCaterFields are made with.Rob Bell wrote:CDS I presume?
- Rob Bell
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Cool: would need to get the pipe bent: I'm thinking a single section of tube bent into a "U" to form most of the perimeter, and then build from there.