TF Race Car Build

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Fri Nov 09, 2018 1:55 pm

Rob Bell wrote:Cool: would need to get the pipe bent: I'm thinking a single section of tube bent into a "U" to form most of the perimeter, and then build from there.

Use box section and gusset the joints if your worried. Using round tube is a lot more work.

I need to get hold of a TF rear subframe, but could use an F one as I want to lose the trailing link/arm.

Post by **Rob Bell** » Mon Nov 12, 2018 12:53 pm

I figured tube would be lighter and stronger? Box would certainly be easier to build off.

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Mon Nov 12, 2018 1:12 pm

So there I was watching How It's Made Dream Cars, and the episode that caught my attention was the Ultima Evolution. The rear lower wishbone/track control arm is such a simple design, so this will be used as part of my plans for a lightweight rear subframe.

Post by **Rob Bell** » Mon Nov 12, 2018 5:14 pm

Very neat! I have to keep with standard suspension geometry, so this won't be suitable for my build - shame!

Interested to see the damper - it appears to be mounted "up-side-down" - but some shocks are built to work like that...

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Sun Dec 02, 2018 7:06 pm

Engine out today, replaced the 600lb coilover springs with 700s and started attacking the subframe with a holesaw.

Post by **Rob Bell** » Tue Dec 04, 2018 2:15 pm

Brave man - but good for you!

How much weight have you saved so far? (I guess weighing the removed discs of cut metal will slightly underestimate the saving - but should give you a good idea?)

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Tue Dec 04, 2018 2:48 pm

If the mini boys can do it.

Bazzajay · Post by **Bazzajay** » Wed Dec 05, 2018 12:46 am

That's a neat job, and should save quite a bit of weight.

What have you used to paint it? I've always used either Zinga or Galvafroid with Chassis Black as a top coat, not cheap, but lasts for years.

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Wed Dec 05, 2018 8:21 am

Bazzajay wrote:That's a neat job, and should save quite a bit of weight.

What have you used to paint it? I've always used either Zinga or Galvafroid with Chassis Black as a top coat, not cheap, but lasts for years.

That's a mini subframe which gave me the idea.

Post by **Rob Bell** » Thu Dec 13, 2018 12:52 pm

I can't remember: had you seam-welded it as well?

PS you must have a large diameter hole-saw!

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Thu Dec 13, 2018 1:50 pm

Its not seam welded. I have a selection of hole saws from 15mm to 76mm

Post by **Rob Bell** » Fri Dec 14, 2018 1:41 pm

It'd be tempted to use a dimple-die to add a bit more stiffness, but I don't think the dies I have are man-enough for the 2(?)mm steel of the subframe... But I am very tempted to do this before putting the TF 'frames in the Shed

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Fri Mar 22, 2019 1:09 pm

So got bored of drilling holes in the subframe and snapping drill bits. I will have removed some weight...

Modified the Metro subframe/engine mount arm moving the bracket ~10mm forward, putting the engine where it would be if I'd used mgf engine mounts.

I also cut out the inner rear wheel arch, as per the cup cars. Also welded in a new threaded insert for the inner o/s rear subframe front mount bolt, as I managed to strip the thread

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Fri Mar 22, 2019 2:03 pm

Next up will be a new adjustable rear engine steady. Just weighed the factory one - a whopping 930g, think I can do better than that.

Post by **Rob Bell** » Sat Mar 23, 2019 5:23 pm

Eliseparts do (did?) one - but I’m sure you can make one lighter

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Sat Mar 23, 2019 11:50 pm

Rob Bell wrote:Eliseparts do (did?) one - but I’m sure you can make one lighter

And cheaper - yorkshireman

Post by **Rob Bell** » Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:05 pm

PS I hadn’t spotted that Cup cars had their rear wheel arches cut out so much!

I can’t do this under my class regs, but adding lightness outside the wheel base is permitted. Not summoned the courage to start cutting holes just yet though! Lol

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Fri May 10, 2019 5:54 pm

New engine steady done 182g

Post by **Rob Bell** » Mon May 13, 2019 1:01 pm

That is looking very "Chapman"! What thickness steel have you used? Probably an optical illusion, but looks thinner than the original (which I guess is 2mm)?

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Mon May 13, 2019 3:15 pm

Thinner steel, but as the engine is solid mounted...the U section is stainless and I've welded washera on the end where the bolt goes through. The crush tube is only 1mm thick but seeing as it is around an m12 bolt I don't see this as an issue. It's not especially pretty but functional.

Took the drivers door door bars out yesterday, top one dead easy as it is bolted in. Bottom one had to be cut out. N/S is proving more problematic think I will buy some more torx sockets. Huge weight saving, will get a pair of scales and weigh them - they're heavy though.

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