NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
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NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Hi Folks,
Quite a few of you will know that I've been building ESCs (electronic speed controllers) to repair the loss of speeds 1 & 2 of the heater fan - primarily for those having aircon fitted. This is because you cannot get to the resistor pack without removing the aircon fitted in the passenger footwell.
Unfortunately this past year has been very bad healthwise and have only felt able to start building again this year. After I've finished building units for those enquiries which came in last year I will not be building anymore.
I will of course give full guarantee and backup for all those that I've built over the years for as long as possible.
Once I'm put in a home for bewildered MGers, that'll be it. Hopefully still quite a few years away as I need to live another 100 years to get all the projects done that I'd like to do.
If the moderators are interested, I can post on this website my circuit diagram, overlay and parts list for anyone wishing to build their own unit.
Bill
aka willyphixitt
Quite a few of you will know that I've been building ESCs (electronic speed controllers) to repair the loss of speeds 1 & 2 of the heater fan - primarily for those having aircon fitted. This is because you cannot get to the resistor pack without removing the aircon fitted in the passenger footwell.
Unfortunately this past year has been very bad healthwise and have only felt able to start building again this year. After I've finished building units for those enquiries which came in last year I will not be building anymore.
I will of course give full guarantee and backup for all those that I've built over the years for as long as possible.
Once I'm put in a home for bewildered MGers, that'll be it. Hopefully still quite a few years away as I need to live another 100 years to get all the projects done that I'd like to do.
If the moderators are interested, I can post on this website my circuit diagram, overlay and parts list for anyone wishing to build their own unit.
Bill
aka willyphixitt
- Rob Bell
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Sorry to hear that Bill - I hope your health is on the mend?
Your ESC was and is a brilliant idea, and once you've stopped making them, they will be sorely missed. It would be an honour to be able to host the instructions and diagrams so that others can follow on a DiY basis.
My email is rob dot bell at ucl dot ac dot uk
Cheers
Your ESC was and is a brilliant idea, and once you've stopped making them, they will be sorely missed. It would be an honour to be able to host the instructions and diagrams so that others can follow on a DiY basis.
My email is rob dot bell at ucl dot ac dot uk
Cheers
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Hi Rob,
Thanks for your comments. I fly over to Southampton (from Jersey) for a checkup in nine days time.
Attached is the circuit diagram that is current (!). IC1 is a 555 timer chip which is now running above audio frequency. This controls Q1 which is a high power "mosfet" semiconductor switching the power to fan motor. The output pulses from IC1 are also fed to IC2 which is used as a "lost pulse detector", so as long as the fan is running its output keeps Q3 "on" which in turn completes the ground circuit to the aircon system.
This is needed as the selector switch in the consol is now only used in one role. That is of course selecting the speeds as before but not by supplying ground to the fan motor and its associated resistors. Loss of use of the secondary ground to the aircon system necessitated the improvisation of IC2 as a lost pulse detector.
C1 together with R1 -R4 select the four speeds and R5,6 are there to prevent astable (free running oscillator) operation when the motor is switched off.
That's the basis of it all.
willyphixitt
Thanks for your comments. I fly over to Southampton (from Jersey) for a checkup in nine days time.
Attached is the circuit diagram that is current (!). IC1 is a 555 timer chip which is now running above audio frequency. This controls Q1 which is a high power "mosfet" semiconductor switching the power to fan motor. The output pulses from IC1 are also fed to IC2 which is used as a "lost pulse detector", so as long as the fan is running its output keeps Q3 "on" which in turn completes the ground circuit to the aircon system.
This is needed as the selector switch in the consol is now only used in one role. That is of course selecting the speeds as before but not by supplying ground to the fan motor and its associated resistors. Loss of use of the secondary ground to the aircon system necessitated the improvisation of IC2 as a lost pulse detector.
C1 together with R1 -R4 select the four speeds and R5,6 are there to prevent astable (free running oscillator) operation when the motor is switched off.
That's the basis of it all.
willyphixitt
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
OOPS.
Just realised that the diagram I've posted does not include many of the references. R1 - R4 are the 47k resistors. R5 & R6 are the two 10Megohm resistors. C1 is the 330pf timing capacitor. C2 is also a 330pf capacitor which couples/controls IC2. R5,6 are 10Megohm resistors.
Too many drawings which have been tweaked over time - oh dear!
SCHOOL REPORT:- Must do better.
willyphixitt
Just realised that the diagram I've posted does not include many of the references. R1 - R4 are the 47k resistors. R5 & R6 are the two 10Megohm resistors. C1 is the 330pf timing capacitor. C2 is also a 330pf capacitor which couples/controls IC2. R5,6 are 10Megohm resistors.
Too many drawings which have been tweaked over time - oh dear!
SCHOOL REPORT:- Must do better.
willyphixitt
Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
HI Folks
I usually reside on Australian Landrover forums with a TD5 Disco but recently acquired the MGTF (again after selling the F a few years back) and find myself having a need to build this circuit from blown resistor pack (cannot get at it with A/C). A current option I have is an e-bay purchased fully built variable speed controller delivered to the door at $13.69 AUS dollars which I cannot even begin to buy parts or build at that price. It handles from 15-40amps depending on one of three freq selections. I gave it a test run direct to the blower and works a hoot using the 22Khz option which refers to 15A from the add. I tried the other two freq but ended up with noise on the motor
From here it would be just a matter of removal of the variable pot and insertion of the 4 trim pot enabled resistor leads to marry up to the switch, . Its a 50K trim pot with a second on/off so wire link for the on/off and then 50K ohm resistor across pins 1 and 3 to be safe replicating the open pot here as I don't know if that circuit is in use. Will purchase 4 trim 50K trim pots which will enable me to custom set the speeds in car for the first three with 4 full on. I.e. just using their pin 1 (or more likely pin 3 as resistance increases fan drops down here) and 2 in series with the MGTF switch with the common at pin 1 on the board and the switch selecting the trim pot to return to pin two on the board. That's the fan done.
The final missing part to all of this is the air conditioning switch so I would have to still take a feed from pin 3 of the NE555 on the board and make a switch using Q3. Does anyone know what part mosfet type Q3 would be here as I'm stuck on that part. I can post final results once finished which might save fellow members a lot of soldering here.
Anyway keen to know any advice on the part so I can attempt a build here and post final results.
Regards Geoff
I usually reside on Australian Landrover forums with a TD5 Disco but recently acquired the MGTF (again after selling the F a few years back) and find myself having a need to build this circuit from blown resistor pack (cannot get at it with A/C). A current option I have is an e-bay purchased fully built variable speed controller delivered to the door at $13.69 AUS dollars which I cannot even begin to buy parts or build at that price. It handles from 15-40amps depending on one of three freq selections. I gave it a test run direct to the blower and works a hoot using the 22Khz option which refers to 15A from the add. I tried the other two freq but ended up with noise on the motor
From here it would be just a matter of removal of the variable pot and insertion of the 4 trim pot enabled resistor leads to marry up to the switch, . Its a 50K trim pot with a second on/off so wire link for the on/off and then 50K ohm resistor across pins 1 and 3 to be safe replicating the open pot here as I don't know if that circuit is in use. Will purchase 4 trim 50K trim pots which will enable me to custom set the speeds in car for the first three with 4 full on. I.e. just using their pin 1 (or more likely pin 3 as resistance increases fan drops down here) and 2 in series with the MGTF switch with the common at pin 1 on the board and the switch selecting the trim pot to return to pin two on the board. That's the fan done.
The final missing part to all of this is the air conditioning switch so I would have to still take a feed from pin 3 of the NE555 on the board and make a switch using Q3. Does anyone know what part mosfet type Q3 would be here as I'm stuck on that part. I can post final results once finished which might save fellow members a lot of soldering here.
Anyway keen to know any advice on the part so I can attempt a build here and post final results.
Regards Geoff
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Hi Geoff,
An interesting find. If possible you could fit the unit with "pot" and replace the selector switch in the console. Remove the pot from the board and remotely wire another pot with an on/off switch. I did make one up for myself many years ago for my old F which I sold the other year when I acquired my current 2005 TF135. I don't have aircon, so a relatively simple job. My pot had an on/off switch so it was a question of fitting the pot to be in the off postion to tally with the console markings. As you say you couldn't buy the parts for the cost of the whole unit. It does look quite big though. Can you fit it forward of the console where my unit would reside? The problem I see with this unit is the lack of control over the aircon when there is no fan blowing. The switch in the console has two circuits, one selects the 4 speeds with no. 4 being directly connected to the fan motor. The other part of the switch gives ground to the aircon circuit. Basically it is a wiper and contact circuit and in the off postion a "pimple" lifts the wiper from the ground circuit. So, you will not turn on the aircon without first turning on the fan. In my unit I use a 100 amp "mosfet" which is controlled by the second 555 timer. This second timer chip is used as a "lost pulse detector", so as long as the first 555 timer is sending out pulses the aircon circuit will have ground supplied when the aircon switch is activated.
Although I've said I won't make any more I do have a spare which I am shipping to Portugal next month. I also have more parts than I thought to make a few more. I am also feeling a bit guilty not making the units for guys that have no electronics and soldering confidence. I'll just take my time building them when required. My prices are well above what you have found but is still a lot cheaper than having the aircon removed and all that entails.
I can supply you with the all the info to build your own, and possibly all the components to boot. PM me for my e-mail address or give me yours in the PM and I will send you all the stuff. My article has taken a back seat for the time being. Other things getting in my way. Out of interest, can you let me have the website where you purchased your unit?
Regards.
willyphixitt
An interesting find. If possible you could fit the unit with "pot" and replace the selector switch in the console. Remove the pot from the board and remotely wire another pot with an on/off switch. I did make one up for myself many years ago for my old F which I sold the other year when I acquired my current 2005 TF135. I don't have aircon, so a relatively simple job. My pot had an on/off switch so it was a question of fitting the pot to be in the off postion to tally with the console markings. As you say you couldn't buy the parts for the cost of the whole unit. It does look quite big though. Can you fit it forward of the console where my unit would reside? The problem I see with this unit is the lack of control over the aircon when there is no fan blowing. The switch in the console has two circuits, one selects the 4 speeds with no. 4 being directly connected to the fan motor. The other part of the switch gives ground to the aircon circuit. Basically it is a wiper and contact circuit and in the off postion a "pimple" lifts the wiper from the ground circuit. So, you will not turn on the aircon without first turning on the fan. In my unit I use a 100 amp "mosfet" which is controlled by the second 555 timer. This second timer chip is used as a "lost pulse detector", so as long as the first 555 timer is sending out pulses the aircon circuit will have ground supplied when the aircon switch is activated.
Although I've said I won't make any more I do have a spare which I am shipping to Portugal next month. I also have more parts than I thought to make a few more. I am also feeling a bit guilty not making the units for guys that have no electronics and soldering confidence. I'll just take my time building them when required. My prices are well above what you have found but is still a lot cheaper than having the aircon removed and all that entails.
I can supply you with the all the info to build your own, and possibly all the components to boot. PM me for my e-mail address or give me yours in the PM and I will send you all the stuff. My article has taken a back seat for the time being. Other things getting in my way. Out of interest, can you let me have the website where you purchased your unit?
Regards.
willyphixitt
Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
HI, good to hear from you and appreciate the advice and will PM details to exchange notes. I will over the next couple of holidays days install the pots and test out this board as a suitable alternative. So its not a given just yet as I need to ensure I can set up then add the air-con mosfet in similar fashion to your design (pulse detect circuit). I was tempted greatly to install the pot as is so close to the 0 - 1 to 4 but turns about 20% more. One point is this box really slows the motor down to a stop whilst on in the very low setting so another min resistor or max needs installing to prevent motor burn out here.
Anyway glad your on as I normally write a lot of mods in other car forums so this is first for the MGTF.
Regards Geoff
Anyway glad your on as I normally write a lot of mods in other car forums so this is first for the MGTF.
Regards Geoff
Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Hi all, I just need a few days to confirm changes to this controller and add the air conditioning circuit and will post the results.
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Bit late on the reply here, but the resistor pack is easy to get to on the ac cars through the air intake - an ideal time to upgrade to the newer snorkel type intake.
Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Hi Folks, finally finished and installed on the F/TF and working as normal. If you can solder, this project is not expensive and any search of the IC555 or NE555 timer chip will show countless projects from school level onwards.
What I can say is Willyphixitt's circuit is robust and will deliver the correct speeds for you. My option was more about buying a product already made and modifying to suit given the values of the components are already worked out and cheaper to buy then in parts. However, I ended up still needing to build the entire A/C switch circuit as per Willyphixitt's diagram and secondly add the 4 x 47K resistor pack with common lead for the switch side so if your reading this and have an interest, then both methods will deliver results. My TF has the early box air intake and in Australia, modding and cutting is not an option so electronic is the only solution for now. I made it that I can remove and retrofit in a heartbeat if I ever get to that coil!
Willyphixitt's circuit is straight forward and just works but my modded version has an advantage in that you have 3 x even lower loss RU7088 Mosfets all sharing the load so heat is just a few degrees above ambient temperature so you can leave it in the supplied plastic box. Further the diode protecting the circuit is a PS30H100CT (30amp -100v) to protect the off motor state and handles the temp very well. The unit looks like a lot of small electronic bits but if you study Willphixitt's circuit and then study the tracks on the controller you will see the slight differences. It is easy if you just study and draw a section so to understand the changes below. This is the key to attempting this controller by understanding where the track are now and by following my instructions you will end up with the same controller circuit as in the diagram for use.
I effectively modded the eBay speed controller mirror Willyphixitt's circuit as the speed controller uses pin 7 whereas the diagram does not use pin 7. It might sound hard in the steps below however the box only ended up with 6 wires, 3 resistors and 1 cap as well as 2 x cuts and links to conform.
The second box is just the A/C circuit and resistor pack with wires to switch. Normally I would have placed a small circuit board bolted to the top of the heat sinks facing down to complete the job however I got lazy (given not sure it would even work) and just added a second box from existing bits and pieces lying around. MGF/TF forward of the heater pipes and under the carpet join is a large cavity in the center channel where all this fits so heaps of room all hidden from view. I've attached a photo of the kit and the system can be installed or removed to go back to factory with the coils later if needed. Only the 6 pin plug housing is required.
Here are the mods:
1. Remove external variable pot / switch and apply a link wire on the circuit board to replace the switch removed. The rear two pins are linked to supply power to the NE555 at pin 8 and 4. You are removing 5 pins, first row of three will be used for the speeds and back to are linked for power on continuously.
2. 2 x cuts by small knife / blade circuit board tracks between existing 2 x signal diodes and NE555. The first is a cut to track to pin 7 and you will see a track going under the NE555 from the two diodes. This disconnects pin 7. The Second cut track is in the same area coming out of pin 8 and after a small 12+ supply link from the other side of the board to the 1K resistor, Cut between the 12+ point and resistor. This will ensure pin 8 continues to have 12+ volt supply yet no longer supply the signal diodes from that 1K resistor.
3. The 1K resistor immediately adjacent the diode will need either removal (to hard to do) or better to just add a solder link (old rotary pot side) to the signal diode so the 1K is no longer “in circuit”.
Now the controller is the same and we just add parts to complete the mod.
4. Install the 2 x 10M ohm resistors in series from 12+ (I soldered direct to the on/off switch link we installed) and terminate to the signal diode (2 pack on the NE555 side) The diodes on the NE555 side have a track linking them and now isolated from previous cut. If you just add the end of the 10M ohms here to one end of the diode (either one) it will provide the best connection as the diodes on the board have a large end plates to easily allow soldering without destroying!
5. Now add one wire lead of a 1K resistor to any signal diode immediately adjacent a Mosfet (you want to be on the track side to pin 3 of the NE555 - i.e. pin 3 goes to a diode at each of the Mosfets. The other free side of the 1K resistor will become the common input from the MGF switch.
6. Scratch off covering track material to reveal copper track near pin 3 as there is a large Y track junction of sufficient area to ensure a good hold. Pin 3 goes to all three mosfets and as you can see the 1K can be installed anywhere on these lines. At this new solder location install one side of the 330pf which will become the feed to the A/C switch circuit.
7. The centre pin from the old resistance pot which you removed now connects via a wire link to the diode side of our 2 x 10K ohm and just solder on to the wire fly lead from the 10M ohm just prior to the smd diode as this is the safe way of only one wire link installed at diode end cap.
8. Build your 4 resistor switch pack in series with the remaining 2 outer pins from the old pot removed to create a 4 x 47KK loop with taps that go to the switch 1-4. The idea being the same as the diagram to have the tap through the switch and back to the circuit from the common through the 1K to pin 3 you installed.
9. Test it as it will now work as is now the same design as above. the red switch bank is left off at 1 and 2. When off one cap is in circuit - same as diagram and this one will deliver a quiet motor. You can try different settings as it will not hurt the motor to see the effects of lower frequencies here.
The board is pretty robust, well made with some filtering so this option only really saves you some time on parts build with a few extras installed such as the box, terminal mounts etc.
Caution - please take a 12+ feed to the A/C switch box from the input positive and not the link as the link is now at 8.5volts when supplying the 10M ohm resistors. Secondly your negative must be from the negative on supply side and not motor side (motor negative is pulsed so you will end up overheating the caps on the A/c board). For the A/C Mosfet I used and IRF1405 as is pretty common. Apologies for soldering and layout on the A/C board as was a butcher effort from parts. It looks way better with the top on!!
Okay, it may sound long winded but you now have two versions, and the point is both work well so I hope this post will give you confidence that if you can built it, it will work.
Special thanks to Willyphixitt as he and I have been conversing with me asking lost of Questions given the caps on the speed controller did not have markings. End of the day, they are the same.
What I can say is Willyphixitt's circuit is robust and will deliver the correct speeds for you. My option was more about buying a product already made and modifying to suit given the values of the components are already worked out and cheaper to buy then in parts. However, I ended up still needing to build the entire A/C switch circuit as per Willyphixitt's diagram and secondly add the 4 x 47K resistor pack with common lead for the switch side so if your reading this and have an interest, then both methods will deliver results. My TF has the early box air intake and in Australia, modding and cutting is not an option so electronic is the only solution for now. I made it that I can remove and retrofit in a heartbeat if I ever get to that coil!
Willyphixitt's circuit is straight forward and just works but my modded version has an advantage in that you have 3 x even lower loss RU7088 Mosfets all sharing the load so heat is just a few degrees above ambient temperature so you can leave it in the supplied plastic box. Further the diode protecting the circuit is a PS30H100CT (30amp -100v) to protect the off motor state and handles the temp very well. The unit looks like a lot of small electronic bits but if you study Willphixitt's circuit and then study the tracks on the controller you will see the slight differences. It is easy if you just study and draw a section so to understand the changes below. This is the key to attempting this controller by understanding where the track are now and by following my instructions you will end up with the same controller circuit as in the diagram for use.
I effectively modded the eBay speed controller mirror Willyphixitt's circuit as the speed controller uses pin 7 whereas the diagram does not use pin 7. It might sound hard in the steps below however the box only ended up with 6 wires, 3 resistors and 1 cap as well as 2 x cuts and links to conform.
The second box is just the A/C circuit and resistor pack with wires to switch. Normally I would have placed a small circuit board bolted to the top of the heat sinks facing down to complete the job however I got lazy (given not sure it would even work) and just added a second box from existing bits and pieces lying around. MGF/TF forward of the heater pipes and under the carpet join is a large cavity in the center channel where all this fits so heaps of room all hidden from view. I've attached a photo of the kit and the system can be installed or removed to go back to factory with the coils later if needed. Only the 6 pin plug housing is required.
Here are the mods:
1. Remove external variable pot / switch and apply a link wire on the circuit board to replace the switch removed. The rear two pins are linked to supply power to the NE555 at pin 8 and 4. You are removing 5 pins, first row of three will be used for the speeds and back to are linked for power on continuously.
2. 2 x cuts by small knife / blade circuit board tracks between existing 2 x signal diodes and NE555. The first is a cut to track to pin 7 and you will see a track going under the NE555 from the two diodes. This disconnects pin 7. The Second cut track is in the same area coming out of pin 8 and after a small 12+ supply link from the other side of the board to the 1K resistor, Cut between the 12+ point and resistor. This will ensure pin 8 continues to have 12+ volt supply yet no longer supply the signal diodes from that 1K resistor.
3. The 1K resistor immediately adjacent the diode will need either removal (to hard to do) or better to just add a solder link (old rotary pot side) to the signal diode so the 1K is no longer “in circuit”.
Now the controller is the same and we just add parts to complete the mod.
4. Install the 2 x 10M ohm resistors in series from 12+ (I soldered direct to the on/off switch link we installed) and terminate to the signal diode (2 pack on the NE555 side) The diodes on the NE555 side have a track linking them and now isolated from previous cut. If you just add the end of the 10M ohms here to one end of the diode (either one) it will provide the best connection as the diodes on the board have a large end plates to easily allow soldering without destroying!
5. Now add one wire lead of a 1K resistor to any signal diode immediately adjacent a Mosfet (you want to be on the track side to pin 3 of the NE555 - i.e. pin 3 goes to a diode at each of the Mosfets. The other free side of the 1K resistor will become the common input from the MGF switch.
6. Scratch off covering track material to reveal copper track near pin 3 as there is a large Y track junction of sufficient area to ensure a good hold. Pin 3 goes to all three mosfets and as you can see the 1K can be installed anywhere on these lines. At this new solder location install one side of the 330pf which will become the feed to the A/C switch circuit.
7. The centre pin from the old resistance pot which you removed now connects via a wire link to the diode side of our 2 x 10K ohm and just solder on to the wire fly lead from the 10M ohm just prior to the smd diode as this is the safe way of only one wire link installed at diode end cap.
8. Build your 4 resistor switch pack in series with the remaining 2 outer pins from the old pot removed to create a 4 x 47KK loop with taps that go to the switch 1-4. The idea being the same as the diagram to have the tap through the switch and back to the circuit from the common through the 1K to pin 3 you installed.
9. Test it as it will now work as is now the same design as above. the red switch bank is left off at 1 and 2. When off one cap is in circuit - same as diagram and this one will deliver a quiet motor. You can try different settings as it will not hurt the motor to see the effects of lower frequencies here.
The board is pretty robust, well made with some filtering so this option only really saves you some time on parts build with a few extras installed such as the box, terminal mounts etc.
Caution - please take a 12+ feed to the A/C switch box from the input positive and not the link as the link is now at 8.5volts when supplying the 10M ohm resistors. Secondly your negative must be from the negative on supply side and not motor side (motor negative is pulsed so you will end up overheating the caps on the A/c board). For the A/C Mosfet I used and IRF1405 as is pretty common. Apologies for soldering and layout on the A/C board as was a butcher effort from parts. It looks way better with the top on!!
Okay, it may sound long winded but you now have two versions, and the point is both work well so I hope this post will give you confidence that if you can built it, it will work.
Special thanks to Willyphixitt as he and I have been conversing with me asking lost of Questions given the caps on the speed controller did not have markings. End of the day, they are the same.
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Hi Geoff & willyphixitt,
My wife’s TF has a/c and a knackered resistor pack. I wish I had seen this thread before I (1) splashed out on a new resistor pack and (2) spent far too long trying to fit it just yesterday morning. Grrrr.
However all that tech stuff in your posts went right over my head and, having a new resistor pack sitting here, I was very interested to see quick_spider’s post: “…the resistor pack is easy to get to ... through the air intake…”.
Any chance, quick_spider, that you could give me a bit more information on the procedure, pretty please? Also what is the benefit of the ‘snorkel’ intake?
Ta.
Adam
My wife’s TF has a/c and a knackered resistor pack. I wish I had seen this thread before I (1) splashed out on a new resistor pack and (2) spent far too long trying to fit it just yesterday morning. Grrrr.
However all that tech stuff in your posts went right over my head and, having a new resistor pack sitting here, I was very interested to see quick_spider’s post: “…the resistor pack is easy to get to ... through the air intake…”.
Any chance, quick_spider, that you could give me a bit more information on the procedure, pretty please? Also what is the benefit of the ‘snorkel’ intake?
Ta.
Adam
- Rob Bell
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Great update Geoff - I'll have to read your post in more detail when I get time! Do you have the ebay advert number for the speed controller you modified?
Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
The ebay link for this model which appears to be very popular can be found at http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131035327494 ... 1439.l2649
or any that look like the one in the pcture will be the same here.
or any that look like the one in the pcture will be the same here.
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Geoff, I'm pleased to see that you've got the unit working. However, a couple of things spring to mind that you should check out.
Firstly, how is the "freewheeling" diode wired up? If it is as per my circuit, then there is no problem.
Secondly, and although I don't expect a problem, but to be sure, run the fan on speed settings 3 and 4 for a good 15 to 20 minutes and check that the unit is not getting (too) hot.
It's not clear as to where you have located the unit. A photo or two would be nice.
To anyone else interested in this, it is obvious that Geoff's solution is not a "plug and play" situation and it does require some electronic skills to complete. Modifying the unit and then building and adding an aircon control circuit.
Adam, It looks like you have 4 options open to you to rectify your resistor pack failure. Aircon out and replace/repair the oem resistor pack. Access via the air intake as suggested by quick_spider. I think we're all interested in that approach. Is it easy as it sounds? Geoff's route as just described. Or, use my esc - close as you will get to "plug and play".
willyphixitt
willyphixitt
Firstly, how is the "freewheeling" diode wired up? If it is as per my circuit, then there is no problem.
Secondly, and although I don't expect a problem, but to be sure, run the fan on speed settings 3 and 4 for a good 15 to 20 minutes and check that the unit is not getting (too) hot.
It's not clear as to where you have located the unit. A photo or two would be nice.
To anyone else interested in this, it is obvious that Geoff's solution is not a "plug and play" situation and it does require some electronic skills to complete. Modifying the unit and then building and adding an aircon control circuit.
Adam, It looks like you have 4 options open to you to rectify your resistor pack failure. Aircon out and replace/repair the oem resistor pack. Access via the air intake as suggested by quick_spider. I think we're all interested in that approach. Is it easy as it sounds? Geoff's route as just described. Or, use my esc - close as you will get to "plug and play".
willyphixitt
willyphixitt
Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Yes, the diode is wired the same as your circuit. I must admit I didn't go past the 10min mark on speed 2 and then followed by speed 3 however was using the car votage supply this time against my power unit @ 13.8 to the controller. Our temp over summer was already at 31 degrees and with my temp probe, recorded 6 degrees (speed two) and 8 degrees (speed three). Diode remained same at just under 5 deg but I suspect the sinks were helping each other out. Will get the extra pics and post once I get a day off here.
I to want to find out the method of access as well given no other search on the net mentions this at all.
I to want to find out the method of access as well given no other search on the net mentions this at all.
- Rob Bell
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Thanks Geoff. The retailer is based in HK, and ships world wide, so perfect!mousie wrote:The ebay link for this model which appears to be very popular can be found at http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131035327494 ... 1439.l2649
or any that look like the one in the pcture will be the same here.
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Hi Willy.
I do have a fifth option, but she really wants this fixed…
I cannot get anyone to quote for replacing the coil block, plenty of people who have never done one will do it on a time spent basis. My regular spanner man tells me the trade menu pricing book gives you six hours to replace the a/c condenser so this task will be longer. Six hours @ £50, I’ll let you do the maths.
I could probably handle the installation of your esc, if not I know a man who can. So do you have any units (kits?) for sale or are you going to resume building to order. If you are able to supply could you let me know the cost delivered UK please and timescales?
Should we take this off line? Adamhprice at sky dot com
Adam
I do have a fifth option, but she really wants this fixed…
I cannot get anyone to quote for replacing the coil block, plenty of people who have never done one will do it on a time spent basis. My regular spanner man tells me the trade menu pricing book gives you six hours to replace the a/c condenser so this task will be longer. Six hours @ £50, I’ll let you do the maths.
I could probably handle the installation of your esc, if not I know a man who can. So do you have any units (kits?) for sale or are you going to resume building to order. If you are able to supply could you let me know the cost delivered UK please and timescales?
Should we take this off line? Adamhprice at sky dot com
Adam
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Re: NO MORE ESC for the HEATER FAN
Hi Adam, I build to order. I'm waiting for more parts from RS but some of the parts are still back ordered. Iv'e got 3 on order at the moment. It would be a few weeks delivery assuming I get the parts fairly soon. You are looking at around £60-00 delivered UK. If you give me your e-mail address I can send you the installation info for you to peruse in the meantime.
Regards.
Bill
Regards.
Bill