The MGF Register Forums

scruffygit wrote:

They look great. Do they fit the Mk 2 'F as well? How are they fixed in place please?
Thanks,
John

Hi John. My F is a Mk1 with Mk2 door cards so they will fit.
I basically followed this from the T-Bar forum.
http://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/9-mgf-tf ... -75-chrome
I struggled to find glue that would do the job though. Mine are fixed using adhesive that is in strip form and a bit like plasticine! Not sure what it's called but Mike Satur supplies it on his alloy speaker surround kit for the F.
It has the advantage of allowing you to remove the trims without damage should need to take the door card off. I purchased a couple of strips from Mike Satur for £3.90 delivered and it works well.
Scruffy

Many thanks Scruffy. Just got to find some surrounds now!

Don't the Rover 75 door handle surrounds fit?? I seem to recall seeing somewhere that they do although I have not tried this myself.

Don't the Rover 75 door handle surrounds fit?? I seem to recall seeing somewhere that they do although I have not tried this myself.

Yes they do with a bit of fiddling about.....that's what the how to on T-Bar is relating to.

Washed and hoovered for the South Downs Run tomorrow..

http://www.wsmgoc.co.uk/page5.html

Refitted my original fuel pump which had been substituted by another in a previous attempt at fixing a cutting out and starting problem. The pump never fixed it but it did cause an intermittent fuel guage problem. So Im hoping the my guage will behave now.

Sent from my DAGGER DG550 using Tapatalk

Yesterday got Lill's nose up in the air on axle stands. Front wheels off, wheel arch liners out on both sides. All in readiness for the fitting of new front discs, pads, stainless hoses, refurbished calipers and new shocks.
With the liners out there are a few small rust patches that need some attention so that will have to be dealt with as well.
There's a definite mud trap behind the liner on the trailing edge of the wheel arch at the front of the sill. All the muck trapped here was dry luckily so the rust is just very minor surface stuff. Fertan rust inhibitor, white smoothrite and lots of Waxoyl should get it sorted.
The liner also rubs against a few places under the arch and also where it is attached to the front subframe. Over the years the paint etc gets damaged and causes surface rust. Again I'm lucky not too much of a problem on LillyRoo. There's also some evidence of surface rust starting on some of the spot welds. It does tend to show up a lot more on a white car, but I'm pleasently surprised how well she's preserved for a nigh on 18 year old gal!

well this weekend iv fitted drilled and grooved front discs and replaced some of the bulbs in the boot brake light as 3 were out.

Almost finished the front drivers side. New shocks, pads,upper ball joint, stainless braids hose, drop links,track rod end, grooved etc discs and refurbed calipers. Treated and Waxoyled wheel arch and into the sill as well. Just 3 more corners to go!








Sent from my DAGGER DG550 using Tapatalk

Today was swapsies day on the Wedgewood Steppy: first replaced the rear discs and pads (fronts had been done two months earlier), then used the new vacuum pump I got for my birthday to suck out the old brake fluid and replace it with some new stuff. What came out looked like a well brewed cuppa tea, without milk or sugar.

Whilst the back end was still on axle stands, I managed to get under the car to attack a problem with the starter motor. Last week, I had the annoying experience of a starter failure at the petrol station. I managed to sort it out with some help from the fuel delivery driver, who happened to just the right piece of thick wire to reach down to the solenoid wire from above. So today I removed the connector, gave it a good shot of WD40 and used a pair of pliers to beef it up again, then refitted it. I do hope this has cured the problem.

Rear wheels back on, then marching up to the front. Both shock absorbers showed excessive play in the top mounts, the n/s one’s mounting nut literally jumping up about 5 mm under load. So I got a new pair (OEM Monroes) and replaced the old ones. Which was the usual PITA, as the nut wouldn't come off, not even with a power tool. So out comes the angle grinder and a quick cut into the thread is sufficient to convince the nut to give in. As an extra, I replaced the fixing bolts for the horns and the fusebox (which had to come off to make way for the grinder) with stainless.

I’m off for a quick test drive now but the 2 kms home from the shed were quite impressive.

My son and I took the wings, bonnet and bumper off the free F and started fitting replacments in better condition.

On the weekend we headed off to my father's house to watch the rugby league grand final on his big TV.

We were a touch late and we were bring dinner, so I gave the F some real wellie through the local back streets.
Covered the 15 km trip in around half the time the GPS suggests it should take.

These truly are magnificent little cars.
And the hot chickens were kept nice and warm in the boot, great having a big heater underneath.

Oooh Robbo, don't mention the War -err- that game here.

Finally finished both front corners of Lill'.......well almost! Ended up replacing upper and lower ball joints, refurbishing the calipers and carriers and fitting new pads. New braided hoses with some home made brackets to stop them from snagging. New track rod ends, KYB Excel G gas shocks and Mtech drilled and grooved discs. Also replaced the naff and rusty self tappers and the clip things they screw into, that hold the wheel arch liners in place. If anybody is interested nice stainless dome head allen screws and matching threaded clips are available on Fleabay. They're intended for fixing motorbike fairings I think but work well on the MGF. Then because I'm a glutton for punishment I decided that there was no way the wheels could go back without a refurb! The faces are actually pretty good with only minor marking but the rear of the wheels are awful with the silver sparkle finish flaking badly and lots of corrosion taking hold.
So I've made a start on the 2 front alloys!

Now finally finished the front two corners. Pleased with how the wheel refurb has turned out
The silver sparkle is a really good match to the original silver sparkle MG centre caps. Replaced the plastic pretend allen bolts with some stainless M4 10mm ones and suitable washers...£1.30 for 20 bolts on ebay inc post!
They kind of screw into the vacated holes but I put a tiny dab of araldite on the end of each one to ensure they stayed in place.

Looking good, the chromed allan bolts make a big difference to their appearance, do you have a link?

Also do you have alink for those wheel nuts?

These are the M4 Allens
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181716872455? ... EBIDX%3AIT

These are the wheel nuts
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361178578355? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Under the Allens I used a small stainless washer....think it was M5 as it fitted in the recess nicely and finished it all off.

New fabric roof with heated glass window. Oil and filter change. Got fog lights and cigar lighter working.

Re: trimmed the hardtop headlining simple job to do but gives great results, ready to fit when winter arrives

Finished off painting my refurbished rear calipers.

Clocks back, Softop off, HardTop on and Winter Tyres albeit Wheels/tyres changed a couple of weeks ago when new rear discs and pads fitted.
Geoff F.