Mgf donor car: building an MG Allegro VVC!

[talkingcars]

The F has a remote servo.

[edk83]

Thanks, I'm quite proud of that pic, starting to look like it means business.

I'll look at the balance bar setup as well as these pedal boxes should be ok without a servo. If not it shouldn't be too difficult to mount one behind the center console. Master cylinders are the correct size, there is an option to go one size smaller on the front but that might mean too much pedal movement.

I think the mgf servo is a normal one with a horizontal bar transferring pedal pressure to it?

[Rob Bell]

Yes - it is a pretty standard servo with a mechanical linkage making it remote. This is a little different to the "usual" aftermarket remote servo kits that are hydraulically operated:

[edk83]

Yep, not sure about having one on the front only, I've been told on lighter braking pressure the back wouldn't be doing anything which isnt good. I'm sure I could adjust it so the rear does engage though.

Before I sort the brakes out I have the camber to sort out, the bottom arms are new mgf aftermarket. With the coilovers set quite low it's producing too much camber. I'm going to drill out the rivets and change the ball joints for rover 100 ones, possibly slot the wishbones for adjustableness.

This is after raising the coilovers a bit, still a couple of degrees too much.



New ride height, doesnt look as badass but now I have more than 2" ground clearance!



I'm wanting to fit 280mm discs and there is no way they are going to fit under 14" wheels, gutted as I love the orange ones I bought but needs must.
15" to test fit, with 45 profile tyres they are actually not much more in diameter then my 14 with 50 profile.

[talkingcars]

Ah, maestro wheels....

[flyingbanana]

Get a mike satur camber adjustment kit.

[edk83]

Have looked at that, much easier to just adjust the bottom ball joints! Wheels are vw Bbs.

[edk83]

Well I say easier, the rivets are going to be pain to drill through!

[Bazzajay]

Well I say easier, the rivets are going to be pain to drill through!

They are fairly difficult, but once done they're done for good. At least, that's what I told myself when doing it on my Montego in the early '90's. Made the job a good deal easier the second time around!

[edk83]

Well it wasn't too bad, one side done last night. Will try it on the rover 100 joints and if I still want adjustment I'll enlarge the holes in the wishbone and make a couple of spreader plates.

[edk83]

I'm going to swap the bolts for stainless ones and put them in from the top as well!

[edk83]

[Rob Bell]

Won't you want to have 12.9 hi tensile bolts for this Ed? Not sure AN1 will be quite up to the job, but I am no metallurgist...

[Reckless Rat]

Please DON'T use stainless bolts. They do not have the tensile strength necessary for such a highly stressed location. Use HT.

[edk83]

The new rover 100 ball joints came with standard 8.8 steel bolts. The stainless an-80 that I use has a higher tensile strength than 8.8 steel.

The new mgf ball joint I have came with 10.9 bolts.

[edk83]

Made a start on the other side

[Rob Bell]

I've always wondered about slotting the lower ball joint for camber adjustment and whether the ball joint might move under very heavy loads. Is there any other way of locking it other than doing up the bolts FT?

10.9 HT nuts and bolts should be fine. Not sure of the rating of AN1 SS - IIRC they're somewhere between 10.9 and 12.9?

[flyingbanana]

The usual way is to slot the arm, set the camber then weld washers to the arm to prevent it from changing.

[edk83]

The mini boys like to slot the wishbone, then use spreader plates on top and underneath, works for them.

[Rob Bell]

Ah, now those solutions make more sense - and the welded washer (or spreader plate) is a brilliant idea