The MGF Register Forums

Brake masters now have banjos ready, going to run braided to the bulkhead then hardline, clutch will be all briaded. Got the light switch on the rear master.



Fuel lines now all routed and conected I've got a pressure gauge so that has a sender too.





Rover fuel filter with the hardline bit from a rover 45, using the oem high pressure quick release.



Battery connectons made Earth via the cut off on the dash, just need to add another engine earth. Found that the ZR gearbox earthing bolt hole which I was going to use on the mgf pg1 is not tapped!

You managed to escape to the Man Cave Ed!

More nice work

Yeah only a few min every now and then but progress is progress.

My Allegro is feeling horny



Now that the power wires are done I've just spun the engine over on the starter for the first time since the belts were done. Nothing exploded and it didnt try to run me over! Good to spin the alternator and those bits as the belt is tourqued up.

Just packing a spare ecu to be remapped, finishing the exhaust and bits this weekend then I can test the fuel system and start the wiring!

That's not a horn, that's a trombone!

I put 50psi through it from the compressor and its loud!

Acewell reed sensor mounted using the handy bracket that would have held the cable gear selector on the mgf

Just need to finish it up and somehow attach the magnet to the driveshaft. I'm thinking welding it would cause it to loose its magnetism, maybe 2 pac glue and a cable tie?



Next job is making front arb droplinks, due to the arb being mounted about 3" lower than it would be on a Rover 100 going above the wishbone is not a good fit. It fits rather well under the wishbone but the original mounting holes then don't line up well. I'm thinking about welding these big nuts onto the back of the wishbones and mounting them there. I could change the size of the spacer to alter where the bar sits and the nuts are m12 so plenty of room for the link bolt to move inside them.

It might be worth looking on the 'bay. A quick search on "Anti Roll Bar Links" in Car Parts had pages of them. Those for a Citroen C1, 2005 on, look as though they might well be what you need.

Had a quick look, basically the same as the rover 100 ones I'm using, only moved them slightly so should be ok

Hornet exhaust kit all welded up this weekend.



Not a clamp in sight Other than the stainless tailpipe I'll give it a coat of black heat paint.



Arb mounts all done, seems to have worked out well but I'm going to customise the links a bit.

Looking good!

Have you figured out the magnet for your speed sensor?

Could you not adapt the original sender? Just worry about the imbalance on the drive shaft at speed...

Gearbox is mk1 mgf so it had a cable drive, could be an option I think acewell do some cable adapters. Will try glueing the magnet though. Don't think the imbalance will be too bad as the diameter is fairly small.

I ran a veypor vr2 on my metro which used a hall sensor, used epoxy and glued the magnet to the inner drive shaft cup.

Yeah that's what I'm going for, inner driveshaft cup. Temped to drill a slight indent for the magnet to sit in, I think epoxy maybe even with a thin cable tie over the top. Worst case scenario it comes off and I have to get another one, it does actually magnetise to the cup as well so that will help some.

Mine is still on the drive shaft after 2 race seasons with no problems, going to chip it off and use on the TF on the front on the drive cup.

Mk1 speedo drive used a reed switch arrangement for the rev counter signal - so I guess a similar arrangement could be used if the drive shaft idea doesn't work out?

Heat stroke!!! I mean the speedo reed switch drive a reed switch to provide a square pulse signal with the road speed to the EPAS ECU.

It's a bit of a strange analogue to digital solution, but it works (so long as the cable hadn't snapped!)

I'll have a go with the Stock Acewell sensor first, the mgf cable selector bracket makes a perfect mounting place.

Exhaust now painted bbq black lol, just to give the welds a bit of protection. In the long run I might get it made in stainless.

Wiring loom all stripped of the extra junk, greatly simplified the whole engine loom while keeping the factory fuse box and relays, fuel pump cut off and immobiliser etc.

Good plan

So the front arb is now on and the exhaust, that turned out really well

The Rover100 gti arb is a very good fit, with mounting it under the wishbones its made the gear linkage a little closer than it was when mocked up a couple of summers ago. Clears in every gear though as it does the exhaust. I guess it would be easy to change the linkage in the future.

My mate was taking the pee out of the used looking header tank so ordered a new one, with coolant sensor which could come in handy. Also ordered a new mgf rad so I have a clean system to pour my posh Evans coolant into. Only problem is the mounting pins are taller and have a shoulder so it doesn't fit! It's going to meet mr angle grinder this weekend and then I might try pressing the start button.





Rear arb moves up away from the backbox when the suspension is not almost on full droop.

That's looking factory fresh Ed

Happy days! The garage makes it sound like a tractor and the phone can't handle it lol

https://youtu.be/Br8jNy7X6Co