No body mods required and sheds a bit of weight, I used 25mm cds.ErikB wrote:Nice reinforced front subframe (previous page). Does the body need any modification to fit it again?
TF Race Car Build
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Re: TF Race Car Build
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Well whilst the roller shutter doors on the motor club were having some work done and I had to be there I thought it would be rude not to do some work on the race car. Got the second short rear tie rod stripped apart and the poly bush fitted , so that's both of them done. I then attacked one of the compliance bushes and managed to get the old rubber bush out and the poly bush fitted in it .
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Looking good in freshly painted "X-Power" Green!
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Re: TF Race Car Build
I guess no need for a hand brake mechanism on your race car?
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Nope, but I am fitting a hydraulic hand brake.Rob Bell wrote:I guess no need for a hand brake mechanism on your race car?
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Nice!
I should have a look, but do you know whether HiSpec do a mechanical handbrake with their calipers? I think they do, but I recall that Allen and Andrew had to have it modified to suit the MGF application (direction of cable travel)...
I should have a look, but do you know whether HiSpec do a mechanical handbrake with their calipers? I think they do, but I recall that Allen and Andrew had to have it modified to suit the MGF application (direction of cable travel)...
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Re: TF Race Car Build
both wilwood and hispec do a cable operated handbrake 2/4pot rear caliper. or you could use a spot brake.Rob Bell wrote:Nice!
I should have a look, but do you know whether HiSpec do a mechanical handbrake with their calipers? I think they do, but I recall that Allen and Andrew had to have it modified to suit the MGF application (direction of cable travel)...
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Okay, so here's a question: other than cost and availability, how would you decide between HiSpec and Wilwood? They're both nice and light weight! I'd be looking to find calipers with equivalent piston areas to the original calipers, hopefully in an effort not to confuse the elderly Bosch 5.0 ABS too much!
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Re: TF Race Car Build
To be honest I would use the Hi Spec ones despite their poor customer service as the mod has already been done for MGFs so the work required is documented. There is nothing worse than having to work out engineering solutions for custom work when you are the first to do it. Piston size as long as the piston is no bigger than the single that will be fine.Rob Bell wrote:Okay, so here's a question: other than cost and availability, how would you decide between HiSpec and Wilwood? They're both nice and light weight! I'd be looking to find calipers with equivalent piston areas to the original calipers, hopefully in an effort not to confuse the elderly Bosch 5.0 ABS too much!
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Re: TF Race Car Build
You're right: HiSpec have had their alloy front calipers made for 280mm MGF brake conversions for many years now. Not sure about the rear, but there again - I am probably looking at it on your last post? Same equivalent piston area as the original sliding caliper?
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Re: TF Race Car Build
ABS on a race car?Rob Bell wrote:..........hopefully in an effort not to confuse the elderly Bosch 5.0 ABS too much!
Home to black Alfa 159 3.2 V6 Q4, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and grey MGF 1.8i, and red MG Maestro T16.
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MGF chatting on the Register and at http://www.the-t-bar.com
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Re: TF Race Car Build
My rears are Wilwood Dynapro singles, but here is a hispec conversion viewtopic.php?t=16176Rob Bell wrote:You're right: HiSpec have had their alloy front calipers made for 280mm MGF brake conversions for many years now. Not sure about the rear, but there again - I am probably looking at it on your last post? Same equivalent piston area as the original sliding caliper?
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Surprisingly yes: although I've braced the servo and have braided hoses and the brake fluid is fresh and well bleed, MGF brakes are still not the most feelsome and it is challenging to cadance brake without actually breaching the limit of adhesion (or not even reach it). Although primitive in today's terms, the Shed brakes fantastically well on ABS - even on a cold and greasy Castle Combe track in October! If I want to inhibit it, I can - I can fit an inhibitor switch.talkingcars wrote:ABS on a race car?Rob Bell wrote:..........hopefully in an effort not to confuse the elderly Bosch 5.0 ABS too much!
One day I may get rid of the ABS to save yet more weight, but I'll need to get the brake feel and feedback a bit better than it is today...
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Re: TF Race Car Build
I'm luck that I have a homologation Trophy and therefore have no ABS on it, so I'm used to not having it . My R888Rs will be here tomorrow 205/50/15 for the rear and 195/50/15 for the front and I dropped the caliper bracket off at workshops today, they will make one out of plastic first and if it is fine will produce two out of alloy
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Re: TF Race Car Build
My other MGF has no ABS either - so I am happy with not having it, but I have actually been very impressed with how well the Bosch systems works on the Shed! I had the fastest times in the wet and cold at the start of the day, and only fell back to higher power cars later when the track dried out! Alot of that was the encouranging stability I had underbraking!
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Re: TF Race Car Build
I think it isn't a bad idea and a good learning technique to feel ABS kicking in as it is more obvious/noticable than locking up a wheel.
Afterall you don't want to lock up a wheel....
my opinion
Afterall you don't want to lock up a wheel....
my opinion
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Re: TF Race Car Build
With the tyres I have (Federal 575RSR), the ABS isn't called upon terribly often!
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Re: TF Race Car Build
So, I discovered when swapping over the fuel pipes on the inlet manifold, that the mounting points for the return pipe are different on plastic ones and VVC. So had to break the bracket from the plastic return pipe and use the VVC one as a template and glue it back on in the right place.
Changed the cambelts today, then welded up the end of the engine mount arm after I cut the end off to match the gearbox one. Fitted the N/S hub and fitted the OS radius arm onto the compliance bush, I haven't refitted the other hub as it will make my life easier to remove the sump the fit the baffle plate.
Changed the cambelts today, then welded up the end of the engine mount arm after I cut the end off to match the gearbox one. Fitted the N/S hub and fitted the OS radius arm onto the compliance bush, I haven't refitted the other hub as it will make my life easier to remove the sump the fit the baffle plate.