MGF Dampers removal info

[Matt66]

Removing MGF dampers done recently, but due to lack of space in the rear of the car, I used Craftsman grips on the top of the damper and a long adjustable to brace the grips for leverage, this helped with undoing the nuts quite easily.

See pic I mocked up in the workshop after doing the job for your info.

Also worth dosing with WD40 a day before undoing the nuts.

It was not as bad a job as expected, on the rear near side I did not have to undo the fuel system.

[Geoff.F]

Or use a drum brake adjustment spanner.
Geoff F.

[alan@bessell.com]

I’ve plundered these threads mercilessly since Beavis, my 1999 MGF arrived two weeks ago so time for some payback.
I’m preparing for my exchange hydragas units next week and decided to remove the dampers for ease of access and to inspect condition. Removing the top mount nut cannot be done without preventing the damper rotation. Use an oil filter removal wrench posters say. Here is the one I bought

Useless for this job until I used the band as a tourniquet using a t bar twisted very tight. Undo the bottom bolt, slip on the band and replace bottom bolt to prevent rotation.
This works for the rears which have a solid damper upper body.
The fronts (monroes) have a plastic cover for the piston. Photo shows the exposed piston after the plastic cover is detached. The tourniquet does not work. I used Mole grips to the top mount washer in conjunction with a ring spanner. Offside is easy, nearside need fuse box detaching for access.
Six hours of struggle and head scratching. I hope I might have saved you some of that time. It is evident that posters have many different variations depending on the non original dampers fitted over the years.

[alan@bessell.com]

As aa follow up, I have a Sealy Spoke wrench set - used to re spoke motor cycle wheels. Turns out this is exactly the right tool to hold the top mount on my dampers while using a ring spanner on the nut. Doh……