Fitting Poly Bushes
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Fitting Poly Bushes
I brought a set of Duraflex poly bushes which includes the follow:-
Front wishbone Front Bush
Front Wishbone Rear Bush
Front Anti Roll Bar Bush
Front Anti Roll Bar Inner Mount
Rear Outer Track Control Arm Tie Bar Bush
Rear Inner Track Control Arm Bush
Rear Outer Hub Mounting Bush
Rear Tie Bar To Chassis Bush
Rear Anti Roll Bar Bush
The main reason was my MOT had an advisory for play in the rear tie bar bush, so I thought I may as well go for poly bushes and try and improve the handling a bit.
So when it comes to fitting them, I know the front wishbone bushes are difficult as you have to drop the sub-frame to get to them, however I did have the wishbones replaced a couple of years ago so the bolts maybe accessible, should this be the case?
How easy should the other bushes be to do myself?
Front wishbone Front Bush
Front Wishbone Rear Bush
Front Anti Roll Bar Bush
Front Anti Roll Bar Inner Mount
Rear Outer Track Control Arm Tie Bar Bush
Rear Inner Track Control Arm Bush
Rear Outer Hub Mounting Bush
Rear Tie Bar To Chassis Bush
Rear Anti Roll Bar Bush
The main reason was my MOT had an advisory for play in the rear tie bar bush, so I thought I may as well go for poly bushes and try and improve the handling a bit.
So when it comes to fitting them, I know the front wishbone bushes are difficult as you have to drop the sub-frame to get to them, however I did have the wishbones replaced a couple of years ago so the bolts maybe accessible, should this be the case?
How easy should the other bushes be to do myself?
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
Hi Beefio. I'm halfway through fitting a full set of polybushes to my F, Upon removing the first lower (rear) arm, out popped a little L shaped bracket between the bolt end (the one that's accessed from a slot in the sub-frame) and the inner bush. It looks like a spacer - it doesn't appear in the WS manual or anywhere else that I can find. Any ideas and is it essential? I'm sure MG-Rover fitted it for a reason.
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
I can't help you there unfortunately...I'll be fumbling my way through it myself up to a point, then will have to pay a pro for any that I can't do...
But I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be able to help you!
But I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be able to help you!
- talkingcars
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
You'll need to lower the front subframe to get to the wishbone bolts.
I think the L shaped "bracket" is simply there to hold the bolt in place before it is bolted in, to aid lining it up.
I think the L shaped "bracket" is simply there to hold the bolt in place before it is bolted in, to aid lining it up.
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
Yes but are the sub-frame bolts likely to be seized up again since they were last undone 2 years ago to fit the new wishbones or should I be able to use them without the need for heat etc?talkingcars wrote:You'll need to lower the front subframe to get to the wishbone bolts
- talkingcars
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
You didn't ask that, you askedbeefio wrote:Yes but are the sub-frame bolts likely to be seized up again since they were last undone 2 years ago to fit the new wishbones or should I be able to use them without the need for heat etc?talkingcars wrote:You'll need to lower the front subframe to get to the wishbone bolts
and I have no idea about this.beefio wrote:.......So when it comes to fitting them, I know the front wishbone bushes are difficult as you have to drop the sub-frame to get to them, however I did have the wishbones replaced a couple of years ago so the bolts maybe accessible, should this be the case?.......
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
Ok so I've managed to fit the 'Rear Outer Track Control Arm Tie Bar Bush' with massive amounts of plus gas and elbow grease.
It was most difficult to get out the eye end of the tie bar and this appears to hold the 'Rear Tie Bar To Chassis Bush' however I couldn't get the old bushes out with a punch and mallet, any ideas on how I can do this?
It was most difficult to get out the eye end of the tie bar and this appears to hold the 'Rear Tie Bar To Chassis Bush' however I couldn't get the old bushes out with a punch and mallet, any ideas on how I can do this?
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
I found the following advice...
"You can drive it out, I used 2 large sockets, one which gives a clearance fit for the bush on the underside, one thats slightly smaller then the O/D of the bush on top, couple of sharp blows with a hammer (I used a lump hammer for weight) and the bush should drift out without too much resistance, or you can do it by passing a large bolt through and winding them together"
So is this saying put a socket larger than the bush underneath and a socket smaller than the bush on top and then hit the top with a hammer which should force the bush out? Should this work?
"You can drive it out, I used 2 large sockets, one which gives a clearance fit for the bush on the underside, one thats slightly smaller then the O/D of the bush on top, couple of sharp blows with a hammer (I used a lump hammer for weight) and the bush should drift out without too much resistance, or you can do it by passing a large bolt through and winding them together"
So is this saying put a socket larger than the bush underneath and a socket smaller than the bush on top and then hit the top with a hammer which should force the bush out? Should this work?
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
Quite a technical query for the general board, but I'll let you off
Not sure I'm familiar with the bushes you're using, I had problems with the ones I used (to the extent that I popped the original metalistic bushes back into the lower wishbones!) but the principles in this thread should apply to your build if it is of help: https://www.mgfregister.org/forum/viewt ... 29&p=44612
Not sure I'm familiar with the bushes you're using, I had problems with the ones I used (to the extent that I popped the original metalistic bushes back into the lower wishbones!) but the principles in this thread should apply to your build if it is of help: https://www.mgfregister.org/forum/viewt ... 29&p=44612
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
When the suspension on the 75th was rebushed a coupe of years ago I used Durflex I believe and had noticed especially last year that the suspension was squeeking so the other day I applied spray grease to the edges of them all at the rear and silicone to the shock rubber bushes and since then the squeek has gone.
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
This is the method I used, the pic shows removal of the F tie-bar eye bush. It worked a treat on all the F rear bushes, but the tie bar to chassis bolt is a pig to get at - it's too tight for a 1/2in drive socket, it's got to be a 3/8in drive 13mm socket.
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
Ok I can sort of see how that works but please could you explain?
Are you tightening the adjustable spanner? I thought you would need to tighten the other end?
Is there another washer in front of the adjuster spanner?
Are you tightening the adjustable spanner? I thought you would need to tighten the other end?
Is there another washer in front of the adjuster spanner?
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
I didn't find the tie bar to chassis bolts too bad to get out as I had a small 1/4 ratchet, but I found them very hard to get back I once I'd fitted the the bigger tie bar/lower arm poly bushes, I literally couldn't get the o/s bolt fully in, so I had to get a garage to do it, which they kindly did for free which was nice!
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
I now want to fit polybushes to the front lower arms (wishbones). Each new bush has a thick flange and a thin one. Does it matter which way they are fitted? The 2 biggest bushes go to the rear, and the smaller ones to the front of each wishbone. I think that (looking from above), at the front, the bigger flange goes on the inside (towards the rear), and at the rear, the bigger flange is at the rear. Is this correct, and does it matter?
- mgtfnut
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
Polybush is the name of one of several urethane bush makers - a bit like Hoover/ Biro etc.
It depends on the construction of the bush - you can have a one piece bush with a mild steel tube/ sleeve to be inserted after the bush is in it's housing, also a s/s lubed tube/sleeve in top hat bushes, also a mild steel tube/sleeve with a bonded urethane bush similar to an OEM rubber bush. Other bushes are available!
The Polybush bonded bush has, I think, a claimed 180* torque rotation before the bond ruptures.
If your bushes have insertable (is that a word?) sleeves which the bush rotates around and you have no instructions, logic suggests that the thicker flange takes the braking force, ie it's at the rear as this will push against the wall of the "cage" in the subframe. Both bush ends should be flanged equally, but normally one end is tapered to ease fitting, so no real advantage which way round in this case. Two equally thick flanged top hat sections fitting tightly would be the best option for a bush set with an insertable tube.
I'm in the middle of replacing my existing front lubed bushes I fitted in 2008, as one of them has broken up. Fortunately Polybush sent me a set of their "new" bonded bushes to try just after fitting the lubed ones back then!! I still have them and they will be going in this week. In this case it doesn't matter which way round they go in the subframe as once tightened up, there is no way the bush can move horizontally. I'll still install them as if they can slide, if only to to be a bit nerdy
The rear of the TF is still going strong with normal orange bushes, with the exception of blue compliance bushes, which is a more resilient compound and a one-off just for me
It depends on the construction of the bush - you can have a one piece bush with a mild steel tube/ sleeve to be inserted after the bush is in it's housing, also a s/s lubed tube/sleeve in top hat bushes, also a mild steel tube/sleeve with a bonded urethane bush similar to an OEM rubber bush. Other bushes are available!
The Polybush bonded bush has, I think, a claimed 180* torque rotation before the bond ruptures.
If your bushes have insertable (is that a word?) sleeves which the bush rotates around and you have no instructions, logic suggests that the thicker flange takes the braking force, ie it's at the rear as this will push against the wall of the "cage" in the subframe. Both bush ends should be flanged equally, but normally one end is tapered to ease fitting, so no real advantage which way round in this case. Two equally thick flanged top hat sections fitting tightly would be the best option for a bush set with an insertable tube.
I'm in the middle of replacing my existing front lubed bushes I fitted in 2008, as one of them has broken up. Fortunately Polybush sent me a set of their "new" bonded bushes to try just after fitting the lubed ones back then!! I still have them and they will be going in this week. In this case it doesn't matter which way round they go in the subframe as once tightened up, there is no way the bush can move horizontally. I'll still install them as if they can slide, if only to to be a bit nerdy
The rear of the TF is still going strong with normal orange bushes, with the exception of blue compliance bushes, which is a more resilient compound and a one-off just for me
Jerry
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
Thanks for your reply Gerry. Yes, they are MGF "Polybushes" as supplied by RimmerBros, orange colour with a steel tube insert to accept the 10mm securing bolts. As I said, I think the 2 biggest bushes go to the rear of the wishbones, the smaller ones to the front. I still don't know which way to press them in, big flange (top hat)? goes to the rear and vice-versa. With no support from RimmerBros or Polybush I'm none the wiser.
- mgtfnut
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
If they are Polybush Ltd, sold by Rimmers, it looks from the web pages that they are bog standard 38A and 38B bushes. They should be in packs with orange script labels saying 38A is front etc.
It's pretty obvious which bush will fit into which end of the wishbone by the dimensions. The thin "weedy" flange is the first end to be pressed in - you will need a big vice, or washers and screwed studding and lots of washing up liquid to act as lubricant. It can get messy.
As said above, I can't see why it matters which way round they are, as the bush is bonded to the steel tube and the "flanges" play no part in locating the wishbone with the subframe.
Anyway, have fun with the washing up liquid, keep everything lined up, as if not centralised they can pop out just at a critical part. Keep calm, more washing up liquid and they will go in
I got my first side installed on the car today, the other side tomorrow weather permitting.
Don't forget to tighten the bolts when the weight of the car is on them, otherwise you might exceed their normal travel and rip them apart - treat them as OEM rubber bushes.
It's pretty obvious which bush will fit into which end of the wishbone by the dimensions. The thin "weedy" flange is the first end to be pressed in - you will need a big vice, or washers and screwed studding and lots of washing up liquid to act as lubricant. It can get messy.
As said above, I can't see why it matters which way round they are, as the bush is bonded to the steel tube and the "flanges" play no part in locating the wishbone with the subframe.
Anyway, have fun with the washing up liquid, keep everything lined up, as if not centralised they can pop out just at a critical part. Keep calm, more washing up liquid and they will go in
I got my first side installed on the car today, the other side tomorrow weather permitting.
Don't forget to tighten the bolts when the weight of the car is on them, otherwise you might exceed their normal travel and rip them apart - treat them as OEM rubber bushes.
Jerry
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
Hi MGTFnut, thanks for your response. I've done all the other (poly)bushes, I've been putting off doing the wishbones because of the additional subframe issues. I didn't use washing up liquid but KY Jelly!! It's water based and nice and slippery!! Yes, I've identified the front & rear and the fact that the skinniest flange goes in first, I just wasn't sure if it mattered if the "skinny" flange goes front or rear. I've got 2 brand new wishbones, I should have made a note of how the stock rubber bushes were oriented before I pressed them out. I'll press them in how I think they should go in. Thanks for the advice and good luck with your project.
- mgtfnut
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
Got all bushes in and bolted up in between dodging showers.
Good luck to you as well - just crack on and get it done - then you can enjoy your car even more
Jerry
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
- mgtfnut
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Re: Fitting Poly Bushes
Got everything bolted up at the weekend and been out for a drive yesterday. Almost totally silent, tracking and geometry still spot on strangely.
In some respects it feels more like a "eurobox" in noise, vibration etc, so it must have been a gradual reduction in ride quality since I last "refreshed" the suspension in 2008. I've got a feeling I won't be able to do the same amount of work out in the road again within the same time frame
In some respects it feels more like a "eurobox" in noise, vibration etc, so it must have been a gradual reduction in ride quality since I last "refreshed" the suspension in 2008. I've got a feeling I won't be able to do the same amount of work out in the road again within the same time frame
Jerry
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k