MOT Failure

[beefio]

Hi folks, long time no speak. My MGF has been laid up for a couple of years after an accident caused some front end damage and it failed it’s MoT. But would like to get her back on the road if it’s not too expensive! So a few of the failure points I’m concerned about are the following:

- Nearside Rear Sub-frame pin or bush likely to beome detached front bush casing (5.3.4 (a) (ii))

- Offside Rear Sub-frame pin or bush likely to become detached front bush casing (5.3.4 (a) (ii))

- Nearside Rear Sub-frame insecurely attached rear bush/mount bolt/bolts missing (5.3.3 (a) (i))

Are any of these an issue, or are they easy enough to fix?

Many thanks

Stuart

[Charless]

New subframe mounts are readily available but the removal without damage of (probably) corroded bolts is the worry. A relatively simple job then becomes much more involved - well worth leaving to a good garage with a lift.

[beefio]

New subframe mounts are readily available but the removal without damage of (probably) corroded bolts is the worry. A relatively simple job then becomes much more involved - well worth leaving to a good garage with a lift.

Ok thanks Charles!

[mgb281]

Stuart
I have recently removed both front and rear subframes from my TF, its not really that big a job but dependant on your resources. I am fortunate in that I have a 2.5 tonne trolley jack and can borrow a 25 tonne (yes 25 tonne) trolley jack. The latter enables me to lift the body clear of the engine in one lift. I also bought a S/H hand pallet truck to wheel the subframe about. I got two pieces of timber from work (100mm fence posts) which go across the car and are supported by concrete blocks on their flats so very stable.
Getting the bolts out on the rear was very quick and simple, I sprayed Plusgas around them for a couple of days before hand then heated them with a MAP torch, every bolt came undone easily.
The front ones were a different matter from memory three of the front and four of the rear ones snapped off. drilling them out was also quick and easy after taking proper advice. A local engineering supply store supplied me with top quality Boron bits not Ebay **** ones and cutting fluid, they said drill 3mm 5mm then 8mm for the M10 bolts, after the last one was drilled I was able to pick the threads clean. The only problem bolt was a front M8 where someone in the past drilled up the side of the snapped off bolt and coming out of the side of the captive nut. The whole operation for all the snapped off bolts was probably about an hour.
In your case since you are only replacing a few mounts then it will be easier and quicker, maybe the MOT tester noticed that there were only three bolts holding on the back mounts, I have put in four to prevent this from happening in the future.
I may have a set of good used TF mounts that you can have FOC if you pay the postage, I will look later today.

[beefio]

Stuart
I have recently removed both front and rear subframes from my TF, its not really that big a job but dependant on your resources. I am fortunate in that I have a 2.5 tonne trolley jack and can borrow a 25 tonne (yes 25 tonne) trolley jack. The latter enables me to lift the body clear of the engine in one lift. I also bought a S/H hand pallet truck to wheel the subframe about. I got two pieces of timber from work (100mm fence posts) which go across the car and are supported by concrete blocks on their flats so very stable.
Getting the bolts out on the rear was very quick and simple, I sprayed Plusgas around them for a couple of days before hand then heated them with a MAP torch, every bolt came undone easily.
The front ones were a different matter from memory three of the front and four of the rear ones snapped off. drilling them out was also quick and easy after taking proper advice. A local engineering supply store supplied me with top quality Boron bits not Ebay **** ones and cutting fluid, they said drill 3mm 5mm then 8mm for the M10 bolts, after the last one was drilled I was able to pick the threads clean. The only problem bolt was a front M8 where someone in the past drilled up the side of the snapped off bolt and coming out of the side of the captive nut. The whole operation for all the snapped off bolts was probably about an hour.
In your case since you are only replacing a few mounts then it will be easier and quicker, maybe the MOT tester noticed that there were only three bolts holding on the back mounts, I have put in four to prevent this from happening in the future.
I may have a set of good used TF mounts that you can have FOC if you pay the postage, I will look later today.

Thanks for the input!

Yes would appreciate the TF mounts if they also fit an F?

[mgb281]

Here are photos of the subframe mounts, if you’re interested let me know and I will remove them. I have some decent bolts as well that you can have.
You can use TF mounts on a F, being rigid mounts they might make a marginal improvement to the handling. I had one F mount on my TF.

[talkingcars]

Personally I would not fit TF solid mounts on a F, I actually retained F mounts when I fitted TF mounts.