srs wire broken

[Mr bennett]

thanks to my ham fisted wife the brown srs wire has been pulled from the red connecter, can this be reattached? only 1 out of the 2 has come lose.

[willyphixitt]

Hi Mr Bennett,
From which connector is the wire pulled out of? Is it the one going to the seat belt, or the one coming from underneath the carpet? Has the wire been ripped out leaving the connector inside the moulding? At the worst, a new plug and socket can be purchased and all four leads soldered or crimped into a new connector - does not have to be as per original. You will probably need to remove the seat in either case. If its the seatbelt side you will probably find a replacement on Ebay or the Classifieds on this site. If you are careful and can remove the connector inside the moulding, you may be able to solder the broken wire back. Without seeing the damage it is difficult to advise on the best course of action. Take some photos so that we can see the damage.
Good luck.
willyphixitt

[Mr bennett]

sorry willy
its the 1 coming from the carpet its pulled 1 wire clean out of the connector.
just had a look and its deffo a seat out job .

[willyphixitt]

Hi,
Meant to have a look at the plugs this afternoon while tyding up my heater fan electonics pc board (the leads primarily) that I fitted the other month. Having had a bad back for some weeks I've been avoiding tinkering around in the car until now.
I need to see how the pins or sockets are held within the plugs. Some are held in like fish hook barbs and require the appropriate diameter brass tubing ( from a modelshop or model engineering supplier) to slide over the pin and close the barbs so that the plug can be removed. It is then a question of soldering back the broken wire to the pin, being careful that you don't inhibit the re-insertion into the moulding. Taking the seat out would really be necessary either way. It will give you plenty of working room. Had it been on the seat side you could have unbolted the pyrotechnics bit and comfortably worked on it on the bench.
Meant to ask,by the way - when does your divorce come up!!!!
willyphixitt

[Mr bennett]

Hi,
Meant to have a look at the plugs this afternoon while tyding up my heater fan electonics pc board (the leads primarily) that I fitted the other month. Having had a bad back for some weeks I've been avoiding tinkering around in the car until now.
I need to see how the pins or sockets are held within the plugs. Some are held in like fish hook barbs and require the appropriate diameter brass tubing ( from a modelshop or model engineering supplier) to slide over the pin and close the barbs so that the plug can be removed. It is then a question of soldering back the broken wire to the pin, being careful that you don't inhibit the re-insertion into the moulding. Taking the seat out would really be necessary either way. It will give you plenty of working room. Had it been on the seat side you could have unbolted the pyrotechnics bit and comfortably worked on it on the bench.
Meant to ask,by the way - when does your divorce come up!!!!
willyphixitt

many thanx willy
and yes iam thinking of givin the wife her P45.
life on my own with the F sounds too good.

[willyphixitt]

Hi,
I've succeeded in removing the sockets from the plug coming from the SRS harness. They are held in with a sprung barbed holder. The difficulty was the very close fitting inside the plug moulding. I had to modify some brass tubing to fit inside the moulding.
You need 3.5mm o.d. or 1/8th inch o.d. brass tubing. With both you need to increase the i.d. to 3mm. After several attempts and running rapidly out of the right size tubing, I ended up using 3.5mm tubing and increasing the i.d. by fitting a 3mm round needle file into a drill, and, with it running in reverse (to stop the file jamming in the tube) ran it in and out until I achieved the right i.d. Hold the tubing with some emery cloth or fine sandpaper in your hand. With the tubing jammed on the file and the drill running forwards you can safely "file" down the o.d to 1/8th inch. Do this before the 3mm i.d. If you use 1/8th o.d tubing then there is more material to remove from the bore but none from the o.d. The overall length needed is around the 20mm.
My first attempt caused the tube to jam while trying to remove the socket, and on removal I ended up with a small collar jammed inside the tubing. This fits on the end of the socket. You can see this in the photo. I then completely screwed up this first attempt by trying too hard to open up the bore over the entire length to the correct i.d. I was using a tapered reamer and 3mm drill at this time. The brass tubing became distorted and could no longer slide into the plastic moulding.
You don't need to remove the seat as I found that I could have enough working room when the seat was fully back.
Clean up the connector at the crimp and solder the lead back on, after tinning both, being careful that the finished job will fit back into the moulding. A bit of heatshrink tubing over the joint before inserting will make a tidy job of it. Use the shaft of the soldering iron to shrink the tubing. Just be very careful not to melt the insulation. Slide the tubing onto the wire before you solder it to the socket.
The brass tubing should be available at any model shop.
The technique to remove the socket is to push the brass tube all the way down and while holding it there push the connector from the rear to fully insert the barbs into the tubing. Now using a 7/64th (2.8mm) drill bit, push the socket from the moulding. You will find it quite firm to push out.
If you PM me your address, I can post you the brass tubing and some heatshrink tubing if this will help you.
Bill
aka willyphixitt

dscn0923.jpg (95.1 KiB) Viewed 653 times

[Mr bennett]

WOW!
fantastic willy , thank you very much.

[willyphixitt]

Hi Alex,
The "high tech" removal tool & 2 sizes of heatshrink tubing will be winging their way to you tomorrow morning via 1st class post.
Good luck with your repairs.
TTFN
willyphixitt

[Charless]

Isn't that a 'burndy' connector?

[Dieter K]

Isn't that a 'burndy' connector?

Or FCI sicma ??, but the MG type seams much "cheaper".
http://portal.fciconnect.com/Comergent/ ... rsion).pdf
http://portal.fciconnect.com/Comergent/ ... _sicma.pdf

[willyphixitt]

Hi Dieter,
It does not appear to be a sicma connector. Couldn't find it on the burndy site either, Charless.
The other site was unavailable when I tried to access it.
Anyway -don't show me an easy way - I like struggling!!!
willyphixitt.