front suspension arm failure

[hughlin]

Just had an MoT fail on my 1996 F with a seriously corroded and multi-rewelded front suspension arm. Which looks as though its going to prove seriously expensive to fix, since the garage tells me they will have to drop the front subframe to deal with it.

Does anyone know of any easy way to deal with this which wont cost me a fortune in labour charges? Having just finished a complete refurb of the insides I'm reluctant to say good bye to the car, especially since most everything else is good!

hugh

[Reckless Rat]

It is necessary to drop the REAR of the front subframe (both sides) in order to remove the pivot bolt from the lower front arm, as it comes out towards the rear. There is a nut at the forward end that can be accessed through a hole in the subframe which is normally covered in tape and can be well hidden. Removal can be complicated because seriously corroded rear front subframe mounts have a tendency to rust and shear the bolts when removing. Stainless replacements are available. It's not that complicated a job if you're able to release the subframe. In effect it's just one long bolt to remove that passes through both front and rear ends of the wishbone. Search on the site for more information. Treat all points with generous helpings of plus gas (not WD40) before starting disassembly.

A lot will depend on the overall condition of your car as to how easily you'll be able to get the old wishbone off, but it is a job that can be done by a reasonably competent DIYer armed with decent tools and plenty of determination.

Some info & pictures here:

http://www.1020mg.org.uk/2013/10/mgf-te ... placement/

[hughlin]

thanks - I dont think I'll tackle it myself (would have done once!) - but at 75 i'm limiting the amount of time I spend crawling under the car! The local garage is excellent and its tips like that which should save some money!

[talkingcars]

It sounds daunting but it really isn't difficult or uncommon - make sure you get a quote before they start.

[hughlin]

well - it was nothing like as painful as i feared. About £160 for the new arms and £360 for labour including some work on one of the sills. The subframe bolts on one side came out OK, but two sheared on the other side and he cut into the chassis, welded in new nuts and welded it up again - a solution I couldnt have done myself. At least that's one less thing to go wrong now!

Thanks for advice and help - as always this forum is invaluable.

hugh

[talkingcars]

.....but two sheared on the other side and he cut into the chassis, welded in new nuts and welded it up again - a solution I couldnt have done myself......

I would just drill out the remains of the stud, I think that is the common way of doing it.