Oil service questions

[seasider]

My authorised MG garage carried out an oil service on my 81,000 mile 1.8 MGF mpi today. I didn't specify the oil to use as I assumed it would be the recommended 10w/40. Checking the invoice later at home I was surprised that 4.5 litres of 5w/30 Synthetic Oil was used. Any thoughts on why they'd use this and does it matter? Also the oil level was over max by about 1.5 cms, I suspect not all the old oil was drained before the engine was refilled. Will this cause any problems do you think? Finally, a FORTE 1 advanced motor flush was used. Is this a good thing or not? Thanks in advance.

[EllsoJo]

I recently did an oil service on my TF, and was pleasantly surprised to find that it was very easy. I checked the owner's handbook (my TF was 1 previous owner, so all documents came with the car, which was nice!)

Rover recommended 10w/40 but also said something about "Fuel economy can be improved by using 5w/30 oil"

Personally, I would stick to 10w/40, especially if your engine is high-mileage: Wider bearing clearances will not support good oil pressure with thinner oil. I have never Never heard of "Forte 1 advanced motor flush". IF (which I doubt) your engine had black, very old sludgy oil before the service, it might have been advisable, but IMO, I doubt it.

As regards oil/level/did they drain all old oil, when I did my oil change, I left the oil draining while I had a leisurely lunch, then replaced the plug, inserted a new filter (genuine Rover OEM), then poured in 4.5 litres through the easily accessible "filler" next to the dipstick. This DOES NOT take as long as some will tell you PROVIDED THAT YOU REMOVE THE DIPSTICK! (Which is what the handbook tells you to do (in Capital letters!).

After waiting another hour or so, I re-inserted the dipstick, and the oil mark was EXACTLY on the upper mark, so I agree that your garage did NOT drain the oil or even worse the flushing oil) before filling.

Either go to a different garage next time, or if you fancy a run to EX14 9PT, come up to Devon and I will talk you through an oil change. At least the oil should be nice & hot by the time you arrive & will drain quickly. PM me if you want more information. I have also changed front discs & pads, but that is the sum total of my F/TF specific experience, so I do not claim to be an expert.

[seasider]

Thanks for your insights EllsoJo.

From what I understand 10w/40 would have been better given the mileage, having said that I'm not sure what represents high mileage for these engines. I've read they're oil tight and can quite easily manage 100 - 150,000 miles.

I'm going to try and drain some oil off, as I don't feel comfortable running the engine when it's overfilled.

I also have my doubts abouts engine flushes and didn't ask for or want one.

I've done oil changes myself on various cars, but not on an MGF. I have some ramps but reversing up a ramp seems dangerous, so I may get some axle stands and do it myself. Thank you very much for your offer of support which I'll certainly bear in mind for the future.

[Reckless Rat]

There's an old Yorkshire saying that says "If tha' wants summat doin' reight, then do it thysen".

Draining the oil on an MGF is relatively easy. Changing the filter is a bit awkward, but not impossible and makes you also check the alternator drive belt.

Refilling can be a challenge, especially if you try to do it via the filler cap in the boot as it has to go in via the dip-stick tube. Easier to take the engine access hatch off and do it via the cam cover - it can be done if you remove the grille in the boot and use a filler tube with two right angles and a funnel.

5W-30 fully synthetic is OK if you want to maximise the service interval to every 15,000 miles. If not or if you use the car only occasionally, then it's false economy. Use a 10W-40 semi synthetic and change it every year/5000.

Personally, for a garage to have left the car overfilled with oil to that degree is professional incompetence. It's a recipe for a blow crank seal. I would be tempted to have words. Good luck.

Properly maintained K series engines are as you say, generally oil tight and will cover big mileages. The killer is cold starts, engine not reaching operating temperature and short journeys.

[seasider]

Thanks for your thoughts and advice Reckless Rat. There's certainly good reasons for do things yourself...if possible!

[Charless]

"100 - 150,000 miles"
In my experience you can add 100,000 miles to that, and some!

[Rob Bell]

Totally agree Charles - at 110-120k miles, my K-series engines all have the same power now as they did when 60-80k miles ago... but I guess that's precisely seasider's point: 80k is just "nicely run in" for a well-maintained K-series.

I wonder whether I should use a lighter oil in Project Shed, as the engine resistance should be a little less?

[seasider]

It may have been my imagination but on the run home from the garage my (well maintained) engine seemed to run smoother. Thanks Charles and Rob for your comments.

[seasider]

Reckless Rat: Personally, for a garage to have left the car overfilled with oil to that degree is professional incompetence. It's a recipe for a blow crank seal. I would be tempted to have words. Good luck.

An update: I took the car back to the garage yesterday and got them to remove about 1/2 litre of oil. The level is now about 2mm over max which I'm sure is fine.

[RobboMC]

Refilling can be a challenge, especially if you try to do it via the filler cap in the boot as it has to go in via the dip-stick tube. Easier to take the engine access hatch off and do it via the cam cover - it can be done if you remove the grille in the boot and use a filler tube with two right angles and a funnel.

For me, part of doing a service is to have a poke around the engine bay and look for oncoming trouble. You might spot a small oil leak, or a coolant hose that's past it's best, a loose plug lead or something. And of course it's much easier to get the oil in through the cam cover. If you are saving the labour cost by doing your own oil change IMHO it's false economy of time to attempt refilling the oil without removing the engine hatch cover.

[Rob Bell]

I'd take the cover off to refill. Not only is it faster than via the remote oil fill (this is really only really intended for top ups), but as Rob says, it offers an opportunity to have a good look around the engine bay to ensure that there is nothing else amiss (like oil or coolant leaks etc)