Replacing the timing belt and manual says to:
Push tensioner pulley against belt, tighten backplate bolt and turn crank through 720 degrees. Then it says to loosen backplate bolt to check tension.
As it is a manual tensioner, will it not loosen-off when I loosen the backplate bolt?
Any tips on getting the correct tension would be very much appreciated.
Timing Belt - Manual Tensioner
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Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
Not many rules really, this board being aimed at technical issues, it shouldn't fall foul (hopefully) of some of the more personal issues that can affect forums.
Rule 1 - Is that you need to think very carefully before posting anything technical or asking anything technical relating to the security system of the car - See 'Security Issues' sticky for more info.
Rule 2 - We (MGF Register) do not support copyright infringement and therefore references to CD ROM, PDF versions or paper copies of the workshop manual (for instance) should not be posted on the forum. We don't want to get into trouble and we'd rather sell you a genuine hard copy through our Regalia shop anyway!
Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
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RobboMC
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Re: Timing Belt - Manual Tensioner
I have an auto tensioner, but the process is much the same.
I would anticipate that after rotating the engine a couple of turns ( 720 degrees ) the tension will have decreased as the belt settles around the pulleys and the tension evens out around the whole belt.
I suggest it's a misprint and it should be:
loosen backplate bolt and reset the tension
Anyway, that's what I would be doing, that's how I do my auto-tensioner.
Then turn the engine 2-3 more rotations, and check tension, then repeat, and repeat.
Your time is 'free', check, check and check. But then be confident since if you can turn it by hand maybe 8-10 rotations
then it should be good to go.
I would anticipate that after rotating the engine a couple of turns ( 720 degrees ) the tension will have decreased as the belt settles around the pulleys and the tension evens out around the whole belt.
I suggest it's a misprint and it should be:
loosen backplate bolt and reset the tension
Anyway, that's what I would be doing, that's how I do my auto-tensioner.
Then turn the engine 2-3 more rotations, and check tension, then repeat, and repeat.
Your time is 'free', check, check and check. But then be confident since if you can turn it by hand maybe 8-10 rotations
then it should be good to go.
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Reckless Rat
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Re: Timing Belt - Manual Tensioner
If the belt is correctly tensioned, you should JUST be able to turn it 90° mid way down the long run, with just your fingers.
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Charless
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Re: Timing Belt - Manual Tensioner
Chris, I think they are assuming that you have the tensioning spring still attached. Once you are happy that the engine can rotate a few cycles in slow time without losing timing, you loosen the backplate bolt to allow for any belt tension changes after movement. You should then retighten the backplate bolt and remove the spring before refitting everything and catching the last of the summer!
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cbjroms
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Re: Timing Belt - Manual Tensioner
Thanks guys,
@Reckless Rat - I was thinking that the 90 degree turn test should be fine but bottled-out and spashed out on a spring from Rimmers at £2.50. The pedestal bolt is already in place on both of my VVV engines.
@Charles - thanks for that, makes sense.
@Reckless Rat - I was thinking that the 90 degree turn test should be fine but bottled-out and spashed out on a spring from Rimmers at £2.50. The pedestal bolt is already in place on both of my VVV engines.
@Charles - thanks for that, makes sense.