Car won't start

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 3:58 pm

Help required please guys - I have had my MGF for a week now and driven it aprox 500 miles with no problem - was out on a run today and for a short while there was a minor misfire that cleared - upon returning to my house I was reversing onto my drive and it stalled (poss my fault) since then car will not start - When i put on the ignition all the lights come on as normal then when i turn the key further to start it the oil over heat light illuminates but nothing at all happens - no attempt for the starter motor -Also when turning the key to the fire position the radio power goes off then returns after i return to the normal ignition position - reading through here I was wondering if it could be a defective crankshaft sensor ? If so would the car still attempt to turn over ?- Your opinions please chaps - Marty

Reckless Rat · Post by **Reckless Rat** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 4:21 pm

Assuming that your battery is serviceable it sounds like you've either got a bad connection at the battery (check under the bonnet) or there's a problem with the alternator. This may be a loose or corroded contact or a faulty alternator or a slack or broken drive belt. The alternator is accessible by jacking the rear of the car & removing the offside rear wheel and then removing the splash guard on the inside of the wheel arch.

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 4:35 pm

Many thanks -It was a new battery fitted by the previous owner a few weeks ago.- what about the starter is it worth taking it off and bench testing it ?

Reckless Rat · Post by **Reckless Rat** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:18 pm

Even if the battery is new, if it's not being charged then eventually you run out of sparks. The fact that the starter motor wouldn't turn the engine suggests a charging problem. Try charging the battery first (make a note of the radio code before you disconnect) and see what happens.

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:23 pm

Fair comment thanks will stick on charge and see what happens -Marty

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:02 pm

OK - battery all OK and holding a good charge - measured at 12.68 v when fitted

Reckless Rat · Post by **Reckless Rat** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:11 pm

It's not going to be fully charged in an hour. Leave it on charge overnight and then try it on the car again.

talkingcars · Post by **talkingcars** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:23 pm

But 12.68 volts is charged, if you try and put any more in the battery will suffer. This suggests to me another problem.

I'd check the fuel cut out switch which is somewhere in the engine bay (no idea where), also try locking and unlocking the car in case it's the immoboliser, and make sure all the connections are correct for the battery.

The radio cutting out when you start the car is normal, try cranking the starter with the headlights on, they should dim if there is current going to the starter.

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:25 pm

I have one of these high tech charges that indicates when its fully charged and all is good - also tried a spare battery I have and I get the same condition - noticed no clicking noise from the starter so i will try to get to it tomorrow and see if the voltage is getting through to the solenoid.

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:31 pm

talkingcars wrote:But 12.68 volts is charged, if you try and put any more in the battery will suffer. This suggests to me another problem.

I'd check the fuel cut out switch which is somewhere in the engine bay (no idea where), also try locking and unlocking the car in case it's the immoboliser, and make sure all the connections are correct for the battery.

The radio cutting out when you start the car is normal, try cranking the starter with the headlights on, they should dim if there is current going to the starter.

Cheers for that - tried the fuel cut out switch but no joy - also tried locking and unlocking several times because it does seem like its an immoboliser issue but no joy - bit dark now so will try to check the starters getting voltage in tomorrow and take it from there - just wondered why the oil high temp light comes on when I try to crank it (and it does not crank) is this relevant - Cheers Marty ps headlights do not dim when I try to crank it.

Reckless Rat · Post by **Reckless Rat** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:49 pm

Before you start stripping down to get access to the starter motor (via the engine access panel) it may be worth while checking the starter relay which is in the fuse panel under the steering wheel...

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:59 pm

Thanks again - ps is there any way of turning off the immoboliser to eliminate it ?

Reckless Rat · Post by **Reckless Rat** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:02 pm

Not as far as I'm aware, it's all part of the ECU. If the red light on the dashboard has gone out, normally the immobiliser is disabled and you should be able to crank the engine.

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:22 pm

I managed to rule out the immobilization - so now it's starter relay / solenoid - thanks for the help so far

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:22 pm

Reckless Rat wrote:Before you start stripping down to get access to the starter motor (via the engine access panel) it may be worth while checking the starter relay which is in the fuse panel under the steering wheel...

Hi Bud - can you clarify where the starter relay is ? - There are a number in the fuse box under the steering column but reading through some other threads on here I have seen reference some in the boot behind the ECU ? - I know I should buy a Haynes !!

Ian007 · Post by **Ian007** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:52 pm

Hang on - I had this problem and it was the earth strap from the battery had worked loose where it joins the front wing and was badly coroded.

Check the earth strap - might save you a lot of work.

Cheers

Ian

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 10:28 pm

Thanks Ian - will check before I start dismantling everything - Marty

talkingcars · Post by **talkingcars** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:02 pm

radiomarty wrote:
Reckless Rat wrote:I know I should buy a Haynes !!

Good luck, there isn't one.

You can get a workshop manual either from the register shop or ebay.

cavaddict · Post by **cavaddict** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:22 pm

Shame there isn't a Haynes as the MG manual is pants!

radiomarty · Post by **radiomarty** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:44 am

Good news she's up and running again - the problem was down to the starter solenoid connection being a bit loose / corroded - many thanks for all the help here folks - Marty

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