lowering and individualising mgf suspension? help needed!!

[metro_matt]

Is there a kit or anything you can buy to do this? Any help or info would be appreciated. thanks

[Reckless Rat]

The standard setting for the MGF suspension, measured from the centre of the front wheel to the top of the wheel arch should be 368mm give or take a little for temperature fluctuations. There is a facility available where suspension lowering pins can be fitted to all four corners which will reduce the ride height to around 350mm. Lowering pins can be purchased from Mike Satur.

It is NOT recommended to reduce ride height by releasing pressure from the hydragas system as it has an adverse affect on the car's handling.

[metro_matt]

Yes i have a metro so know all about people letting fluid out. i wish to lower it properly hence this thread! Ill check mike satur out thanks for the advice

[andywatson]

Mike Williams Racing sells individualising kits, £49.99

http://www.mgw-racing.com/catalog/index ... c-23_24_25

You will also need an additional 2 shrader valves at £14.99 each.

[Rob Bell]

Matt, the easiest way to lower the suspension is to cut down the alloy piston that enters the base of the hydragas unit - http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/DIY/su ... /index.htm

I am not convinced by lowering knuckles that don't seem to have the same resistance to corrosion as the originals do.

Individualising can be done in one of two ways, although for a road car, I am not sure I would bother, as the individualised units offer the same roll resistance as interconnected units, but with the disadvantage of loosing bump compliance. The standard suspension has decent anti-dive geometry too...

But for a track car, individualising offers an easy way of adjusting the corner weights.
The two approaches are:
1. To place a hydraulic tap in line so you can individualise or re-link the suspension at your leisure.
2. To run hydraulic lines with schrader valves.

Tech-speed in Eathorpe near Leamington Spa do this conversion, but I hadn't seen Mike Williams Racing before. With some ingenuity it may be possible to engineer your own individualisation kit using standard parts: the hydraulic lines are in two parts - the shorter front section has a schrader valve built in, so all you need do is terminate the interconnection, and you could get a couple more front connectors and use these for the rear for a similar solution.

Hope this helps

[Rich in Vancouver]

I installed a set of the Satur lowering pins and am happy with them.
Just a couple of points to keep in mind;
You will need access to a hydrolastic pump to pump the suspension back up afterward.
Don't be surprised if one or all of your suspension knuckles break getting them out of the arms. (and the replacements are only available with standard pins installed-expensive and annoying!) They are made of nylon but rust from the arms tends to lock them into place and it is easy to break bits off getting them out.

Apparently if you have a hydro pump with a vacuum function you can suck the cones up into the displacers allowing you to change the pins without
removing the displacers. (never seen this done myself!)

[Rob Bell]

Don't be surprised if one or all of your suspension knuckles break getting them out of the arms. (and the replacements are only available with standard pins installed-expensive and annoying!) They are made of nylon but rust from the arms tends to lock them into place and it is easy to break bits off getting them out.

I've had the same experience getting the old pins out. Thing is, I thought it may be a technique thing, as you want to lever it out, but this places a lot of stress on the nylon cap because it is being forced out at an angle. You want to try and get them out straight - which may be more successful in preserving them?