The MGF Register Forums

Some will know me.. Those who do know I embarked on a project back in November 2011..

My MGF was a 2000 W reg steppy.. The gear box self destructed.. So I planned to drop the rear subframe and fit a TF 160 engine/box instead and convert the car to manual..

But in the process I decided to clean/paint and modify/replace bits as I went..

The car still isn't finished.. But to date.. I've done a lot of work..

A brief(ish) over view is:

Seam welded engine bay
2x seam welded subframes with solid mounts
De-seamed body shell (including removal of aerial and hockey sticks)
Hellier/Scholar engine running Titans (spec is fairly detailed)
C4 box running torsion diff and tapered diff bearings
Custom made strut bracing (cup style across shocks, plus body stiffening)
Custom brake set up front and rear 333x32mm front discs and 312x25 rears with Brembo 4 pots front, High Spec 2 pot rears
Every nut and bolt replaced... 12.9 bolts used throughout
5 stud hubs (5x100 PCD)
De-handled, lambo doors
Smoothed bonnet
One off boot lid
Smoothed rear arches
Custom front and rear bumpers
Single wiper conversion
Smoothed interior (no texture, no MG centre badge)
Custom made uprated Anti Roll Bars (80% stiffer)
Modified wish bones
Double shear drop link mounts all round
Custom rear drop links
Rose jointed front drop links
Rose jointed steering
Full keyless entry/start
Custom modified TF headlights
Custom built LED quad rear lights
Spax adjustables
Individualised spheres using custom made hoses (12" long)


A lot of the car has been altered to improve performance and/or handling..

If you have any questions please fire away..

I think you welded the door hinge in the wrong place!

It will be a bit of a toy when finnished

Foxy wrote:I think you welded the door hinge in the wrong place!

This is going to be a hell of a car when finished, people think my cars been modified a bit, this car makes mine pale in to insignificance. Can't wait to see it finished.

It's only a car.. Lol

I've tried to analyse every part of the car and improve or upgrade where possible

Brakes, steering, suspension, torsional stiffness of the shell, subframes, engine mounts, gearbox etc..

It's a 2 year project, working on it weekends and evenings using primitive tools.. I'm not a qualified mechanic..

But I do have some good friends who have built some very 'specialist vehicles' and regularly call on their experience for a pointer in the right direction.

Allan

I fitted the passenger door with the standard NAS Sport lambo door kit.. but didnt like the look.. the door opened too wide for me.. and stuck out at too far an angle..

So I spent 6 hours saturday modding the drivers door and a few tweeks to the hinge..

Bingo.. Now Im happy

Standard NAS Sport fitment

Diesel D modded

The drivers door looks more OME now in my humble opinion










Also on a side note.. in one of the pics above you can just see the brake pedal.. Ive chopped this and removed an inch out of it.. so that it now sits at the same level as the accelerator pedal.. I hated having to lift my leg before.. this would become very tiring on track days.. A simple but very effective mod

Nice to see this update here!

It's coming along nicely - what's the next big job, and have you decided on the colour yet?

Hi Rob..

The colour... Mmm.. going for a 2k solid colour.. to make dings/dents easier to repair.. ie no clear coat on top.

Probably going for the 'midnight green' colour thats on the car in the pics... above

Next major job is finish the paint work.. paint it.. then fit the completed rear subframe..

The rear brakes will be sorted within the next 6 weeks hopefully.. (312x25mm vented discs and 2 pot callipers)

Im struggling for time at the moment due to work commitments..

But target date is finished car by October this year

Allan

I look forward to the next update Allan!

Monster brakes!!!

Rob Bell wrote:
Monster brakes!!!

Proper brakes..

I think (just my opinion) the AP set up isnt that great.. and the rears remain unchanged across the whole range..

Its about time someone did some 'proper' brakes

I agree - which is why I got VHS to make the larger 266mm rear brake upgrade - although IMO they're still not quite big enough to restore the balance... 280 or even 304mm rears take my fancy Would need to source an alternative rear brake caliper though - as you've done Allan!

Hi Rob,

Im currently looking at having a custom rear set up made for the F/TF following conversations with Andy Watson and Paul (Kameleon)

The set up will use 304mm AP discs on the rear and 2 pot callipers from Hi Spec..

It will be a minimum of 6 weeks before the kit is sorted for Andys car.. but happy to share info once we've sorted it

Hi Spec make a nice 2 pot that has a built in spot calliper for the handbrake..



I plan on running cut slicks so on dry days I dont see any issues with running 'proper' brakes..

I will also have the standard ABS set up..

No idea yet if the factory standard proportioning valve will be up to the job.. if not ill fit a remote bias valve

My mods are fairly extensive..

I will try to explain them bit by bit

In an attempt to stiffen the body shell up to improve handling and steering Ive fitted the full VHS kit..

Then...

Made up some custom bar work under the bonnet.. This braces the shock towers.. Ala Cup cars.. Ive also connected the braces through the bulk head onto the under dash cross member for extra stiffness

The spare wheel arera has been cross braced too.. (removable to carry a spare for Euro trips).. These are connected to the radiator panel.. which again has been stiffened up..

The shock towers have been seam welded too..

I can now run my Spax on the hardest setting without fear of fracturing the body

At the rear.. Other than seam welding the engine bay and shock tower tops..

Ive braced between the two shock towers.. same as the Cup cars.. (visible in the pic below)

And braced the boot... These bars meet the two VHS bars in the engine bay.. and run down to bumper crash cans

The boot bracing is removable for carrying luggage etc..

I used 6mm plate and 6mm angle to make the mounts..

The idea being any large open space is cross braced.. to stiffen.. hence why I have boot bracing and under bonnet bracing..

The front wishbones have been seam welded and the drop links mounts made double shear.. And the alloy drop links replaced with heavy duty rose joints.. These are then connected to custom made anti roll bars

The 3 rivets in the bottom ball joint have been drilled out.. And replaced with 3 x 12.9 bolts and welded captive nuts.. This will make replacing the lower ball joint easier in the future

The front brakes are VW Transporter discs that have been machined to reduce the weight by 39%... The callipers are off of a Merc SL500.. They cost me £50

New Spax shocks.. Stainless spacers and 12.9 bolts.. New roller bearings in the top arms.. New top ball joints..

Just need the new ABS leads now

I changed to 5 stud as there is a much wider choice of wheels available

Both subframes have been blasted, seam welded, zinc primed, stone chipped, 2 coats primer and 3 top coats (2k)

I don't like powder coat as it chips and the moisture creeps underneath

Like Andy Watson... I too have gone for the Vibra Technics engine mounts (fast road)

The standard rubber mounts are likely to fail with the engine I'm running and the fact that the car will get driven hard on the track

The standard gearbox arm has been seam welded.. The clutch servo braced to eliminate flex.. And 12.9 bolts throughout