Strange entry into the MGF VVC world !

[dunkle]

Hi,
bought a 98 VVC with 46k and 10 months MOT.
So far have aligned all four wheels and changed front tyres which have all been balanced. Tyre shop forgot to do up the lock nuts on the track rods !
Changed oil and filter and is currently in for timing belts and check over.
Why all this ?
The car handles awfully on the front end and feels so light at 60mph +, the steering is tram lining and not an enjoyable experience. Better with new tyres and definitely safer.
Garage has told me the timing is one notch out and the HT leads are shot as well as the alternator belt, missing splash guard.
This would hopefully account for the lumpy tick over and heavy vibration when starting off and accelerating between 40-70mph on the M-way. I've yet to confirm this, the car returns post Easter.
Oh and the oil change- car came back with dipstick on minimum 1
Total bill so far @£350 even with a refund for the Tyre shop mistakes.
Trying to remain enthusiastic and look forward to a hopefully rejuvenated MGF VVC when it returns.

[colintf]

Hi and welcome.
Sounds like good progress but a few challenges still to fix

What tyres and what tyre pressures?.

[talkingcars]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Car will run badly if the timing is out, maybe time for a belt change.
Look for a TF splash guard, they are plastic, the MGF version was cardboard.
As per Colin - these cars are very sensitive to tyre brand and pressure.

James

[dunkle]

Hi and thank you for the welcome,
yes did a bit of research and opted for event tyres 16" with 26 psi front and 28 back. Also ordered a plastic splash card from EBay for the princely sum of £18.
The car benefits from Abingdon alloy wheels and cream leather seats which have no rips or tears in them. It also has the very nice Momo gear knob and the beautiful wood rimmed steering wheel. The car also comes with the wind-deflector fitted, which is essential for a buffeting free journey as anyone who has owned or does own a convertible knows.
The list of to do's grows but will be gradual as I've yet to really enjoy the drive !

[Countax]

Coincidentally my son had a similar tram lining problem on his '98 VVC as well. Turned out to be the front tyres.
When he bought the car a few years ago it was fitted with 215 R16 on the rear and 195/45 R16 on the front. When he replaced worn out tyres he standardised on 215 all round. Last year he rotated the wheels front to back to even out the wear across all four tyres. He constantly complained from then on about the cars handling. When i drove it earlier this month the car was very skittish and you needed to be 100% attentive to keep the car on the road. The steering was also pulling to the left on the slightest of road cambers. I had the cars 4 wheel alignment checked and all was fine plus the suspension height was fine. I did a bit of forum reading and found out that although 215 tyres on all four corners is an acceptable configuration on the VVC it does lead to tramlining on some vehicles. Anyway, we fitted some 195/45/R16 tyres at 24 psi on the front and the car is now superb to drive, even the pulling to the left has gone. I think 215 on all 4 corners is not a good set up if the rear tyres have lots of tread and the fronts very little.
What size tyres do you have?
Nigel

[dunkle]

Hi,
that's interesting as the car has 215 R16 all round. Yet to really drive it as still in having belts done but will let you know the outcome when back next week.
If still tramlining then maybe 195/45's will be the answer.

[talkingcars]

As the fronts only do the steering unlike a front engine front drive car where the fronts steer, apply power and carry all the weight. The narrow tyres make the handling more nimble.

[Bigfootmgf]

I have 215 all round but I don't have standard tracking, my car has the fronts toed in but the standard is toed out.
I find my car doesn't tramline as bad as it did when it was toed out and makes the front end more pointy!

[dunkle]

Thanks Paul, another option to consider.

[RobboMC]

Good tyre joints are hard to find.

I got my car 4 wheel aligned in 2015, they found a bend rear tie rod and broke the gear lever mechanism. I limped it home in 3rd gear,
unable to engage 1st, 2nd or reverse. Got a refund and they told,me never to come back.

Fixed gear lever myself, sourced and fitted a straight rear tie rod.

Took car to another tyre fitter, did 4 wheel alignment and now car pulls to the left. They blamed the power steering,
so I removed fuse and no change, took car back twice more and they swear it's aligned straight, but car still pulls to left.

So now I have 2 nearby tyre retailers that I will never return to.

About to take it to a suspension specialist to find out what they did wrong but I need to do the centring thing on
the steering first so they have nothing to blame.

[dunkle]

Hi,
sympathize with you. Be interested to know the outcome.

[dunkle]

So went back to tyre fitter today and he says all wheels are balanced and aligned, drove home and yes handling much better all be it light but much much better.
Unfortunately the steering wheel is now offset when driving straight. Back we go again tomorrow!
Incidentally the handling is really down to the suspension not being pumped up which is due to be done this Saturday then hopefully we're finally set for the summer.

[talkingcars]

You need the suspension at the correct height before getting the alignment done.

[dunkle]

OK so had the car pumped up today, the front is at 380mm and rear 370mm, took some pumping as rear was down to 330m an increase of 30mm. Wow what a difference, the car handles better rides better and is totally transformed. The steering is positive and doesn't wander nor does it feel unsafe at speed.
To get the rear up to 370 had to pump each front up to 380mm but it's all good.
A lesson learned with regard to the importance of hydragas suspension !

[Charless]

If you have pumped it that high in cool weather it 'may' need to be lowered again if we get hot weather. Height at the rear is not relevant unless wildly different to the front, the front is where it should be set - 368mm from wheel centre to arch at 17C. Temperature affects the height by 0.6mm/ degree C.
It should need about 400psi on the fluid pump and then height tends to rise further over the following hour as the new pressure balances through the system. Height changes the geometry (particularly front) significantly, so the 4 wheel alignment will need to be done again for perfection.

[dunkle]

If you have pumped it that high in cool weather it 'may' need to be lowered again if we get hot weather. Height at the rear is not relevant unless wildly different to the front, the front is where it should be set - 368mm from wheel centre to arch at 17C. Temperature affects the height by 0.6mm/ degree C.
It should need about 400psi on the fluid pump and then height tends to rise further over the following hour as the new pressure balances through the system. Height changes the geometry (particularly front) significantly, so the 4 wheel alignment will need to be done again for perfection.

Many thanks, have just done the alignment again today and all ok.