Hi all,
Is there any outstanding reason why a 160hp reated head will not fit/not a good idea to mate to a 143 block? I am not after any hp gain, it's just to replace the paperweight that is my current 143 head.
Thanks in advance,
Matty
160 head on a 143 block
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Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
Not many rules really, this board being aimed at technical issues, it shouldn't fall foul (hopefully) of some of the more personal issues that can affect forums.
Rule 1 - Is that you need to think very carefully before posting anything technical or asking anything technical relating to the security system of the car - See 'Security Issues' sticky for more info.
Rule 2 - We (MGF Register) do not support copyright infringement and therefore references to CD ROM, PDF versions or paper copies of the workshop manual (for instance) should not be posted on the forum. We don't want to get into trouble and we'd rather sell you a genuine hard copy through our Regalia shop anyway!
Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
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Mattyboy2154
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160 head on a 143 block
Matty
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Tipper
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Re: 160 head on a 143 block
The only difference I know of is that the 160 head will be MEMS3 whereas the earlier vvc head may not be and the sensor positions may be different.
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itsonlyme54
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Re: 160 head on a 143 block
you will need the correct cambelt, the head alone will not make much difference, presuming you are already running Mems3 you also need 52mm tb and 160 ecu set to see any gain
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talkingcars
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Re: 160 head on a 143 block
IIRC the actual head is a straight swap.
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Rob Bell
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Re: 160 head on a 143 block
The head is a straight swap. To get the extra few horses, the valve seats are cut differently to improve low-lift air flow. Very early 160 heads (from the Trophy 160) even have a cut out around the valve pockets. None of this makes the least difference to fitting the head to an earlier engine.
As your MGF is a '96 VVC, you're running MEMS2J. Sadly this can't be remapped. There are piggy back systems that can alter the ignition timing (the period favourite was the Superchips ICON), and you can increase fuelling if necessary by changing the fuel pressure regulator. This is all a bit crude. The better solution is to make an adapter loom and use MEMS3 with a 160 map on it
As your MGF is a '96 VVC, you're running MEMS2J. Sadly this can't be remapped. There are piggy back systems that can alter the ignition timing (the period favourite was the Superchips ICON), and you can increase fuelling if necessary by changing the fuel pressure regulator. This is all a bit crude. The better solution is to make an adapter loom and use MEMS3 with a 160 map on it
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ZSx
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Re: 160 head on a 143 block
Ok... How easy is it to add MEMS3 to a 96/7 VVC car?Rob Bell wrote:The head is a straight swap. To get the extra few horses, the valve seats are cut differently to improve low-lift air flow. Very early 160 heads (from the Trophy 160) even have a cut out around the valve pockets. None of this makes the least difference to fitting the head to an earlier engine.
As your MGF is a '96 VVC, you're running MEMS2J. Sadly this can't be remapped. There are piggy back systems that can alter the ignition timing (the period favourite was the Superchips ICON), and you can increase fuelling if necessary by changing the fuel pressure regulator. This is all a bit crude. The better solution is to make an adapter loom and use MEMS3 with a 160 map on it
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talkingcars
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Re: 160 head on a 143 block
Change the complete wiring loom, including all gauges, switches, sensors etc.......ZSx wrote:Ok... How easy is it to add MEMS3 to a 96/7 VVC car?
Or graft a MEMS3 engine loom onto the MEMS 1.9/2.0 main loom (which is what I am doing).
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Rob Bell
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Re: 160 head on a 143 block
And I've done 
Actually, plenty of folks have done this for a variety of different projects (Metros, Midgets, Caterhams etc. etc. etc.).
In general, it is about matching up wire colours, although there are a few things to look out for.
The "best" MEMS3 loom to go for, I think, would be an early TF or late MGF VVC. The MEMS3 map can be had from Mark Stacey at kmaps.
Actually, plenty of folks have done this for a variety of different projects (Metros, Midgets, Caterhams etc. etc. etc.).
In general, it is about matching up wire colours, although there are a few things to look out for.
The "best" MEMS3 loom to go for, I think, would be an early TF or late MGF VVC. The MEMS3 map can be had from Mark Stacey at kmaps.