The MGF Register Forums

I hadn't used my F for a few days and when I went to start it the 'Lolarm' went-off. When I went to add water I found that the washer from the cap had stuck to the top of the filler the last time I had filled it; it had then adhered itself to the funnel I use, a plastic bottle with a hole cut into the bottom. I replaced it in the cap and had no trouble on a 20 mile run, with the water level fine when I returned.

I find I have to top-up the water regularly, usually checking when it is cold. The last time I had topped-up I had had to do it hot as the 'Lolarm had gone off, for the first time, while I was driving. This must have been when the washer became displaced. I shall pay extra attention to this when topping-up in future!

Bazzajay wrote:I hadn't used my F for a few days and when I went to start it the 'Lolarm' went-off. When I went to add water I found that the washer from the cap had stuck to the top of the filler the last time I had filled it; it had then adhered itself to the funnel I use, a plastic bottle with a hole cut into the bottom. I replaced it in the cap and had no trouble on a 20 mile run, with the water level fine when I returned.

I find I have to top-up the water regularly, usually checking when it is cold. The last time I had topped-up I had had to do it hot as the 'Lolarm had gone off, for the first time, while I was driving. This must have been when the washer became displaced. I shall pay extra attention to this when topping-up in future!

Glue the washer to the cap with a thin smear of silicone rubber or even cheaper, bin the cap and fit a new one.
Buy 2 then you always have the essential spare. Keep the spare together with a rad bleed plug. Caution. An aftermarket rad may have a different thread size.

Geoff.F

[quote="Geoff.F")Glue the washer to the cap with a thin smear of silicone rubber or even cheaper, bin the cap and fit a new one.
Buy 2 then you always have the essential spare. Keep the spare together with a rad bleed plug. Caution. An aftermarket rad may have a different thread size.Geoff.F[/quote]

Thanks Geoff, I must admit I've been thinking it might be a good idea to replace the cap, even though it's only a couple of years old.

The cap is regarded as a service item.

talkingcars wrote:The cap is regarded as a service item.

Yep agree mine gets changed every 12 months whether its needed or not!

talkingcars wrote:The cap is regarded as a service item.

Thanks for the info., how often should it be replaced?

Hi Barrie,
I had a whole string of cap failures during the 10 years I ran my TF, presumably down to some poor manufacture or quality control issues. I could never see any defect in them but failure was a regular occurrence. I always ordered 2 when I needed one and I ended up carrying a bag of 4 spares so I always had one if needed! They were numbered using a waterproof chalk pen so I knew one from another. I also found that the yellow Land Rover (?) type were longer lasting than the usual cheap black MGRover or Honda caps.

As I now have a ZR 160 as a runabout and for track day fun I still have those caps and carry them in that car along with the essential 'K-series' tool kit!

Martin

Bazzajay wrote:

talkingcars wrote:The cap is regarded as a service item.

Thanks for the info., how often should it be replaced?

At around £5 a time annual is affordable.

Many Thanks to everyone for the input, a couple of caps now ordered, should arrive in a couple of days.

Cap duly replaced, but the water loss got worse. Then the windows started misting, driver's side footwell more of a lake under the mat. Using kitchen roll to mop it up I noticed it was pink. Yes, you've guessed? It was the heater control valve. So I thought I'd replace the heater fan resistor while I was about it. All back together again, but still only speeds three and four on the fan, and yes, the original resistor was shot. Any ideas as to what I should look for now?

Can you please advise where you purchased your good quality header tank cap from as i also need to buy a couple.
Nigel

Countax wrote:Can you please advise where you purchased your good quality header tank cap from as i also need to buy a couple.
Nigel

£4.80 inc. VAT from Rimmers - MG Rover original part.

and just the £7.95 postage

(edit - sorry £3.25 postage as I've just ordered 3 !)

Tipper wrote:Hi Barrie,
I had a whole string of cap failures during the 10 years I ran my TF, presumably down to some poor manufacture or quality control issues. I could never see any defect in them but failure was a regular occurrence. I always ordered 2 when I needed one and I ended up carrying a bag of 4 spares so I always had one if needed! They were numbered using a waterproof chalk pen so I knew one from another. I also found that the yellow Land Rover (?) type were longer lasting than the usual cheap black MGRover or Honda caps.

Martin

Funny that. I've had a Land Rover yellow type for 12 years now. I have a test rig and check the pressure and vacuum valves in the cap every year, and also carry a normal black one as spare.
So far, never had a sign of trouble