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As an ex Land Rover Series & Defender owner I learned the hard way how vitally important it was to inject rust preventative liquids such as Waxoyl into hollow box sections such as their bulkheads and door frames.
I have also read on other forum such as the one specifically for the MX5 how there are several specialist restorers of those cars that offer injection of rust preventatives into the many rust black spots on those cars.

So does anyone on here know where are the best points to inject these magical solvents into an 'F' or 'TF' ?

Obviously I do realise that the minute drain hole at the back of the sill has to be kept open, which suggests to me that a thinner solvent that has more flow to it might be a better option.

Yes, I have rust-proofed my 2009 TF sills. I used Dynax S-50, which flows much better than Waxoyl. I found the best entry point was the engine compartment air entry points behind the doors. You remove the trims and air channel giving a very large aperture to squirt the stuff where you will. It is particularly useful in getting the stuff into the narrow void between inner and outer rearwheel arches. It is claimed to be optimised for cavity protection in the maker's blurb. I also used it on my MG Midget sills

Fraser wrote:Yes, I have rust-proofed my 2009 TF sills. I used Dynax S-50, which flows much better than Waxoyl. I found the best entry point was the engine compartment air entry points behind the doors. You remove the trims and air channel giving a very large aperture to squirt the stuff where you will. It is particularly useful in getting the stuff into the narrow void between inner and outer rearwheel arches. It is claimed to be optimised for cavity protection in the maker's blurb. I also used it on my MG Midget sills

Thanks for that Fraser, did you use the pressurised spray cans or did you buy it in a 5ltr bulk container............. furthermore, from the access point you used to spray the inside of the sills, approximately how far forward do you think the spray might have penetrated? And lastly, did you heat the Dynax S-50 up so as to make it flow better?

Many thanks and Happy Christmas

On the cills, you have the grommets front and rear on the closure plates so you can slide the tube in from both ends, to make sure that I injected the whole length of the cill I removed the stainless cill covers, drilled some 10mm holes and pumped the cavity wax through there than plugged holes with grommets then refitted the covers

Buzzy-Beans wrote:

Fraser wrote:Yes, I have rust-proofed my 2009 TF sills. I used Dynax S-50, which flows much better than Waxoyl. I found the best entry point was the engine compartment air entry points behind the doors. You remove the trims and air channel giving a very large aperture to squirt the stuff where you will. It is particularly useful in getting the stuff into the narrow void between inner and outer rearwheel arches. It is claimed to be optimised for cavity protection in the maker's blurb. I also used it on my MG Midget sills

Thanks for that Fraser, did you use the pressurised spray cans or did you buy it in a 5ltr bulk container............. furthermore, from the access point you used to spray the inside of the sills, approximately how far forward do you think the spray might have penetrated? And lastly, did you heat the Dynax S-50 up so as to make it flow better?

Many thanks and Happy Christmas

I used the pressurised cans, and probably need to get into the front end of the sill but maybe I'll do this in 2018. The car doesn't get used in winter or when salt is on the roads.

Fraser wrote:I used the pressurised cans, and probably need to get into the front end of the sill but maybe I'll do this in 2018. The car doesn't get used in winter or when salt is on the roads.

I have been thinking of properly drilling 2 or 3 access holes along the inner sections of the sill, using a size of drill which will leave a hole of the exact same size as required by a commercially obtained bung, carefully cleaning up the hole surrounds and then painting them with a suitable paint so that I can use them to gain access on an annual basis for a top up squirt of the magical liquid.

I remember doing that same thing on an Austin 1100 in the 70s. Cars were real rust traps then so anything one could do to stop the rust bug was usually beneficial. What happened to that car I don't know, it has probably been round the baked bean tins circuit many times by now ! I sold it to an old boy who had had his retirement Austin 1100 written off in an accident, and mine, a 2-door in Glacier White, was a dead ringer of his car, so he bought it.