MGF Suspension - pre purchase questions

[CoventryConvert]

Hi all,

I have the chance to buy a 1999 MGF that has been in storage for the last year after the MOT expired and the owner has lost interest in it due to other business commitments.

I am sure I can get it for a good price and the condition of the car is outstanding.

The bodywork has no dents, no rust, no sign of accident repair, though a small insignificant scuff on the front lower bumper.

The underside of the car looks like it is just out of the factory with just a light spray over of wax oil so I can see the painted floor perfectly.

From my examination I cannot see any rot anywhere, even the subframes. Even the steel coolant pipes look factory fresh (not saying they have not been replaced).

The car has approx 61000 miles on it, a reasonable service history and has passed eight of its last mot's without advisories averaging 3000 miles per year.

Looking at it I can see a great opportunity for a new weekend toy / future classic.

However the only thing that is holding me back at the moment is the suspension.

The car appears to be down on the bump stops all round as the suspension is solid.

Should I be concerned with this? does it mean the nitrogen spheres are depleted?

I have found a couple of garages that will pump the suspension up for me but I guess this will raise the ride height to spec, but until this is done I will not be able to tell if the Nitrogen spheres are empty.

The garages are about 25 miles away in opposite directions so my problem initially exists with getting the car there.
It has no MOT, but to get an MOT I need the suspension pumped as I am sure it would be a FAIL with dropped suspension.
The garages in question do not do MOT's at their location.

Is there a way to pursue this or am I just opening myself to a lot of trouble?

I have scoured all the relevant forums, the internet generally trying to get a consensus on where to go with the car.

The coil conversion kits for the MGF seem to have little praise online, what with noise issues, cracking to the shock mounts etc .

The car is near on perfect condition, that is what is drawing me to it, however I don't mind working on it I just don't want to be buying a dead end project.

BTW the suspension is currently measuring 320mm from wheel centre to arch at the front on both sides.

Thanks in advance.

[ArntyR]

HI CoventryConvert. My original F was saggy when I bought it and it needed other work doing, so I SORNed it. Over a couple of months It sagged further and I couldn't get it over the 'dip' where our downward drive meets the road.

Final job was a cam belt which I wasn't confident in d-i-ying either, so I found the nearest mobile guy who did both and freed me into a life of abrasions, upgrades and dirty fingernails .

F's need pumping probably every 2years or so at a cost of ~£50ish In your case you've got to do this at least once...I suspect it'll be ok.

If not, there is a recent spring/damper conversion that apparently improves upon an earlier conversion for about £1000 or so which will make sense if the purchase price reflects it (or even if it doesn't) since the previous owner seemed to 'care' enough to preserve it with waxoyl.

According to my mobile guy the suspension is likely to settle if it stands in storage for a while...

Looks nice; imo go for it. Imo I'd factor in the price of the cambelt/waterpump/adjuster as well, if there's any doubt. They're 4-year/(60 000ml)(?) time-dependant and might well need doing.

ps can't you arrange to pump it up on the way to your MoT?

[Geoff.F]

The pump kit is portable. Have you asked the price for your local garage to come and do it for you ??
The belt life was 60000/5 Years for the "F" with a 12K Service interval but for the TF it was 60000/4 Years with a 15K Service interval with same engine. Take your pick.
Geoff.F

[ZSx]

Of course... you can take it too and from a place of MOT repair legally without any issues

So, I would be tempted to take it to an MOT, if it fails (not saying it will on the suspension) then drive it to the place to top it up and back again to pass the MOT. all legal.

[CoventryConvert]

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies.

Hopefully I can see the guy tomorrow and push things along a bit. I am a little wary of the new suspension setup over my previous Triumph cars but the more I read about it the less concerned I become.

The suspension drop will be a good bargaining point. I don't know what he 'thinks' its worth, but I have a fairly good idea as to MGF values by keeping an eye on £Bay and 4utotrader etc.

The car also has rear parking sensors by the look of it, obviously retro-fitted.

Also something I liked for originality was the original MG radio is still present and not a retro-fit hack. And the boot rack which I believe is a cycle rack has MG printed on it, so a genuine MG accessory ?

I have access to the car at any time so I might try and get the battery charged this week and try and start it.

Not checked the oil on the dipstick yet but the coollant expansion bottle is clean and the coolant pure green.

[Mikeadman]

Coolant should not pure green it should be pink be aware!!!

Cheers

Mike

[talkingcars]

Coolant should not pure green it should be pink be aware!!!

Early mk1's may have been green but I thought that changed in '97.

[ArntyR]

I suppose there must be a reason that pink replaced green. I know greens and blues need to be refreshed after 2 years and pink has a 5-year life so it might be thought of as 'better'?

Imo keeping on top of fluid changes is best, in any case, but pink (organic?) might seem the popular option.

I gather that mixing pink with other colours encourages some harmful precipitation so I'd top up with whatever's there in the first instance, and if a move to pink is planned then very thorough flushing would be needed...

[mowog73]

We have two 1995 Fs and both came with green antifreeze and we continue to use the green stuff.

Today's quality ethylene gylcol antifreeze (the green stuff) is good for 5 years.

[Reckless Rat]

The expected life span of a hydragas sphere is 15 years so it's quite likely that the nitrogen eggs in your prospective purchase are depleted - ride height changes could be a result of fluid loss but if the car is sitting on its bumps stops (like it looks in the picture) then the first port of call is to have the fluid pumped to bring the car up to its proper ride height and then to see whether the ride quality is what it should be. If the gas is depleted in the nitrogen eggs then the ride will be harsh and bouncy. They can be re-gassed but will require removal and sending off to a specialist. Four spheres regassed will cost £350 plus removal and replacement. Suplex spring/damper replacements are about £1000 plus fitting. That's probably more than the car is worth unless it's an absolute minter. Get haggling.

[BodgeItAndScarper]

Just to add, I don't think low suspension is an MOT fail. So you can mot it and then go for a pump up.

There's also a new regassing solution on the market for £70 or something, but as yet it's unproven.

[CoventryConvert]

Hi all,

Many thanks again for the replies.

Just had a poke around the car again today and bounced all four corners.

Its not solid after all, there is suspension movement so I guess we are not totally down on the bump stops, so maybe things are a little more positive than I thought.

Still trying to get a chance to talk to the owner, he is busy at the moment building a new unit for our estate.

Want to move things along now, getting a little itchy. But not itchy enough to buy at all cost.

I am going in with eyes open after all the research I have done on this model of car and keeping an eye on the going rates.

[Reckless Rat]

If as you say the car is sitting at 320mm then it's probably as low as it's going to get. The normal ride height should be 368mm unless a previous owner has fitted it with lowering pins in which case it would sit at 350mm or thereabouts. Are you absolutely sure there's suspension movement because you may just be compressing the bump stops and the tyres. Even with re-gassed spheres the rear suspension is pretty firm, due to the weight and proximity of the engine/gearbox. The front however should be more compliant. This is mine AFTER I replaced the spheres:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOmXgS8U13I Hopefully that should give you a reasonable base for comparison.

[RobboMC]

You don't need the car in a workshop to pump up the suspension fluid, in my method I just use two standard car jacks.
If you want the car get one of the Hydragas pumps off eBay for 50 pounds or so and pump it up on the spot when you buy it.
It doesn't take much skill at all, just the pump and the right fluid.

You probably don't need to get it to 368 mm to drive it to the MoT and home, 350 or so would be plenty, but if you've got it off the ground you may as well go right up to 370 while you're at it. The MG manuals don't mention jacking the car up, but my pump came with that in the instructions.
Makes sense to pump the wheel down rather than pump with the weight of the car on the suspension. Saves a very sore arm IMO.
It could take you 45 min to an hour to pump it up from that low, the DIY pump is quite slow.

When mine was that low after the rebuild I pumped up one side and came back a week later to do the other side, but she was sitting in my
garage so I could wait. I was able to get the car off the bump stops and up to standard ride height for MoT and I knew less about Hydragas than you already do. 3 years later she's still going strong with 1-2 more ride height pump ups.

[CoventryConvert]

Hi all,

Still not got the deal done yet but have had full access to the car to evaluate.

So the car will need the following work done;

Suspension Pump Up ( hopefully thats all it needs and the spheres are not shot )
New Battery
Re-sync key fobs
MOT
Cam Belt and Water Pump
Full Service
Head Gasket ( Probably not as coolant has no contamination neither does the oil )
Slight rust developing front wings (both sides and minimal )
New Discs and Pads all round
Maybe a rear exhaust box as it looks very crusty around the seams, though not run the car to check for blowing.
Hopefully the CAT is ok, but very rusty on its surface.
Tires look good for tread, but could probably need a new set as the rubber has age hardened I expect.

Thats it as far as I can see for essential and piece of mind maintenance.

So as a finger in the air figure I am looking at the thick end of £800 in parts if all need doing (less tires).

If the suspension is shot then that adds a lot more.

So I can only offer about a grand for the car I think, if I have to put another grand into it maybe.

If the seller wants more then I will have to walk from it as it will only be a second car and not worth the investment.

Sort of on the fence now, its a good condition car, but there is no value in it to over spend on maintenance.

If it was a daily driver then it would be justified.

Any last thoughts?

[John SS]

If you like it, go for it!
Life is short.

[John SS]

If you like it, go for it!
Life is short.