K series rebuild

[matt25solomon]

Considering rebuilding my first k series.
Looking for tips on the possible pitfalls of these engines

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

[Rob Bell]

Matt, just go for it

When you say "rebuild" do you mean the head (top end rebuild) or the whole engine? I've undertaken the top end rebuild on my old Freelander 1.8, and am in the process of rebuilding a couple of VVC heads, and have a 1.4 K-series to do too. I've also a 1.8 complete rebuild to perform with forged pistons/rods and a ported cylinder head to do - but as I have yet done that I can't give many tips!

Attempting something you've not done before is always daunting. I actually bought the Freelander to get some engine-building practice!

[Geoff.F]

Matt, just go for it

Attempting something you've not done before is always daunting.

So correct. The question is , How much experience do you have building engines ?? . If you are eperienced, then there are few pitfalls but if not, then there are many basic procedures that are essential.
The first "Tool" requiered is the Manufacturers Maintenance Manual.
Geoff.F

[Rob Bell]

100% agree with that - the K-series engine workshop manual is not only invaluable, but essential. Don't rely on a Haynes manual...

[talkingcars]

Hi and welcome to the forum

Let us know how you get on.

James

[The old one]

Matt,
Not sure how your garage/work shop is equipped, but I'm half way through porting my spare head getting ready to fit before the rolling road.
I was a little aprohensive about starting, but once started it's ok if you take your time. What I have found is a pillar drill and a flexible drive for the burrs makes life a lot easier
Good luck.

[Rob Bell]

Matt,
Not sure how your garage/work shop is equipped, but I'm half way through porting my spare head getting ready to fit before the rolling road.
I was a little aprohensive about starting, but once started it's ok if you take your time. What I have found is a pillar drill and a flexible drive for the burrs makes life a lot easier
Good luck.

Hope you can share what you’re doing

Funnily enough I’m porting an old VVC head as well - using a metal burr in my cordless drill

[The old one]

Rob,
I can recommend Clark flexible drive clamped into the chuck of a pillar drill. I've opened up the exhaust, and about to start on the inlet, then hopefully smooth off with a Dermal. I'll post some pictures before and after.

[Rob Bell]

Look forward to your pictures! I haven't even finished off four ports yet!!!

[The old one]

Hi Rob all,
Finally got my back side in gear and Finnish the polishing and porting, I used the later head. But drilled and tapped to take the manual adjuster. I'm trying to slide on a new 23mm wide belt , but no matter how I try I'm about the thickness of the belt short in sliding it over. Am I missing something or do I need the 26mm with the 2 extra teeth for it too work . have pictures but not sure how too upload.
Many thanks Steve

[Countax]

Surely if the original engine used the 26mm belt with the two extra teeth then that is what should go back on else the cams will quickly go out of sync as the crank rotates. If that happens then you can expect a very rapid bang as the valves go through the pistons. Or am i missing something like providing the tensioner is in the exact right place then it does not matter what length the belt is? My head started to hurt as i tried to think about the crank rotating and what the impact is on the cams with fewer teeth.
Nigel

[The old one]

Hi Nigel,
My F is a 96 which had the 23mm wide belt and manual tensioner, I think the auto tensioner came in at 2000-2001 which had the 26mm wide belt. I'm using the later head, but with the older manual tensioner, which you can do if you drill and tap for the locking bolt, using original bottom sprocket and can pulleys, just not sure if I need to change anything else.

[RobboMC]

Hi Rob all,
Finally got my back side in gear and Finnish the polishing and porting, I used the later head. But drilled and tapped to take the manual adjuster. I'm trying to slide on a new 23mm wide belt , but no matter how I try I'm about the thickness of the belt short in sliding it over. Am I missing something or do I need the 26mm with the 2 extra teeth for it too work . have pictures but not sure how too upload.
Many thanks Steve

A new belt can be awful to get to slide in to place, there's not much extra length for the tensioner to take up.

I have hit this hurdle once and my arm still hurts from trying to get the belt on in the car.

The solution is to unlock the flywheel lock and gently move the crank a few degrees to get MORE tension on the exhaust run side.
The issue for me was that when there's not enough tension on the exhaust run then it's impossible to get the belt over the tensioner.

Once the belt is fitted for a week, remove and replace the correct way and it should go on fine. The issue is that the new belt needs a
bit of stretch to fit easily.

The other way to do it is to remove the crank sprocket, sit in in the belt and replace the sprocket with the belt in it. ( NOT recommended if you can help it) Then remove and replace a week later.

In the end, you MUST rotate the whole thing to make sure all the marks keep coming back together, rotate at least 8-10 times and check, check and check again before hitting the starter motor.

[RobboMC]

Hi Nigel,
My F is a 96 which had the 23mm wide belt and manual tensioner, I think the auto tensioner came in at 2000-2001 which had the 26mm wide belt. I'm using the later head, but with the older manual tensioner, which you can do if you drill and tap for the locking bolt, using original bottom sprocket and can pulleys, just not sure if I need to change anything else.

Count the teeth on your pulleys, the cam pulleys MUST have double the number of teeth as the crank pulley as the crank must turn exactly twice for each rotation of the camshafts.

[mowog73]

Loosen the manual tensioner so that it can wooble a bit. This should allow you to get the belt on.

Why are you reverting back to the manual tensioner? When I replaced the head on my 1995 F, I was glad for the change to auto tension, so much easier to get on and tension.

[Rob Bell]

Loosen the manual tensioner so that it can wooble a bit. This should allow you to get the belt on.

Why are you reverting back to the manual tensioner? When I replaced the head on my 1995 F, I was glad for the change to auto tension, so much easier to get on and tension.

On a tuned engine, the manual tensioner is preferred by engine tuners like Dave Andrews. Apparently stronger with more consistent tension? Interestingly, the VVC always used the manual tensioner even after the MPi versions of the engine went over to auto-tensioners. Setting the tension withe manual version is not too difficult, and I have happily rebuilt later engines with the earlier tensioner arrangement.

[The old one]

Thanks all,
All back together, all underneath work completed, just have to refill with water Bleed and fill with oil turn the key and see what happens.
Steve.

[Rob Bell]

Fingers crossed now Steve

[The old one]

Hi all,
Just a quick update, all back together, would it start, would it hell. Even tried towing, in case the lifter's where holding the valves open no joy. Both can wheels and bottom sprocket lined up spot on, one final check before striping the head down this weekend. Timed back up to 90 bftdc, removed cam wheel's and washers, as it's difficult to see the camshaft dowel's, took picture of inlet cam, correct, took picture of exhaust cam 180 degree out. Repositioned exhaust can , tensioned belt closed my eyes and turned the key, started first time and sounds really good. Was on the rolling road 2 years ago, and made 140.2, back on the road on the rolling road on 22nd will video and put on Instagram, hence my user name, school boy error.
Steve.

[talkingcars]

Simple error but also a simple fix.