K series rebuild
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Not many rules really, this board being aimed at technical issues, it shouldn't fall foul (hopefully) of some of the more personal issues that can affect forums.
Rule 1 - Is that you need to think very carefully before posting anything technical or asking anything technical relating to the security system of the car - See 'Security Issues' sticky for more info.
Rule 2 - We (MGF Register) do not support copyright infringement and therefore references to CD ROM, PDF versions or paper copies of the workshop manual (for instance) should not be posted on the forum. We don't want to get into trouble and we'd rather sell you a genuine hard copy through our Regalia shop anyway!
Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
Not many rules really, this board being aimed at technical issues, it shouldn't fall foul (hopefully) of some of the more personal issues that can affect forums.
Rule 1 - Is that you need to think very carefully before posting anything technical or asking anything technical relating to the security system of the car - See 'Security Issues' sticky for more info.
Rule 2 - We (MGF Register) do not support copyright infringement and therefore references to CD ROM, PDF versions or paper copies of the workshop manual (for instance) should not be posted on the forum. We don't want to get into trouble and we'd rather sell you a genuine hard copy through our Regalia shop anyway!
Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
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K series rebuild
Considering rebuilding my first k series.
Looking for tips on the possible pitfalls of these engines
Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk
Looking for tips on the possible pitfalls of these engines
Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk
- Rob Bell
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Re: K series rebuild
Matt, just go for it
When you say "rebuild" do you mean the head (top end rebuild) or the whole engine? I've undertaken the top end rebuild on my old Freelander 1.8, and am in the process of rebuilding a couple of VVC heads, and have a 1.4 K-series to do too. I've also a 1.8 complete rebuild to perform with forged pistons/rods and a ported cylinder head to do - but as I have yet done that I can't give many tips!
Attempting something you've not done before is always daunting. I actually bought the Freelander to get some engine-building practice!
When you say "rebuild" do you mean the head (top end rebuild) or the whole engine? I've undertaken the top end rebuild on my old Freelander 1.8, and am in the process of rebuilding a couple of VVC heads, and have a 1.4 K-series to do too. I've also a 1.8 complete rebuild to perform with forged pistons/rods and a ported cylinder head to do - but as I have yet done that I can't give many tips!
Attempting something you've not done before is always daunting. I actually bought the Freelander to get some engine-building practice!
Re: K series rebuild
So correct. The question is , How much experience do you have building engines ?? . If you are eperienced, then there are few pitfalls but if not, then there are many basic procedures that are essential.Rob Bell wrote:Matt, just go for it
Attempting something you've not done before is always daunting.
The first "Tool" requiered is the Manufacturers Maintenance Manual.
Geoff.F
- Rob Bell
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Re: K series rebuild
100% agree with that - the K-series engine workshop manual is not only invaluable, but essential. Don't rely on a Haynes manual...
- talkingcars
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Re: K series rebuild
Hi and welcome to the forum
Let us know how you get on.
James
Let us know how you get on.
James
Home to black Alfa 159 3.2 V6 Q4, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and grey MGF 1.8i, and red MG Maestro T16.
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Re: K series rebuild
Matt,
Not sure how your garage/work shop is equipped, but I'm half way through porting my spare head getting ready to fit before the rolling road.
I was a little aprohensive about starting, but once started it's ok if you take your time. What I have found is a pillar drill and a flexible drive for the burrs makes life a lot easier
Good luck.
Not sure how your garage/work shop is equipped, but I'm half way through porting my spare head getting ready to fit before the rolling road.
I was a little aprohensive about starting, but once started it's ok if you take your time. What I have found is a pillar drill and a flexible drive for the burrs makes life a lot easier
Good luck.
- Rob Bell
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Re: K series rebuild
Hope you can share what you’re doingThe old one wrote:Matt,
Not sure how your garage/work shop is equipped, but I'm half way through porting my spare head getting ready to fit before the rolling road.
I was a little aprohensive about starting, but once started it's ok if you take your time. What I have found is a pillar drill and a flexible drive for the burrs makes life a lot easier
Good luck.
Funnily enough I’m porting an old VVC head as well - using a metal burr in my cordless drill
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Re: K series rebuild
Rob,
I can recommend Clark flexible drive clamped into the chuck of a pillar drill. I've opened up the exhaust, and about to start on the inlet, then hopefully smooth off with a Dermal. I'll post some pictures before and after.
I can recommend Clark flexible drive clamped into the chuck of a pillar drill. I've opened up the exhaust, and about to start on the inlet, then hopefully smooth off with a Dermal. I'll post some pictures before and after.
- Rob Bell
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Re: K series rebuild
Look forward to your pictures! I haven't even finished off four ports yet!!!
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Re: K series rebuild
Hi Rob all,
Finally got my back side in gear and Finnish the polishing and porting, I used the later head. But drilled and tapped to take the manual adjuster. I'm trying to slide on a new 23mm wide belt , but no matter how I try I'm about the thickness of the belt short in sliding it over. Am I missing something or do I need the 26mm with the 2 extra teeth for it too work . have pictures but not sure how too upload.
Many thanks Steve
Finally got my back side in gear and Finnish the polishing and porting, I used the later head. But drilled and tapped to take the manual adjuster. I'm trying to slide on a new 23mm wide belt , but no matter how I try I'm about the thickness of the belt short in sliding it over. Am I missing something or do I need the 26mm with the 2 extra teeth for it too work . have pictures but not sure how too upload.
Many thanks Steve
Re: K series rebuild
Surely if the original engine used the 26mm belt with the two extra teeth then that is what should go back on else the cams will quickly go out of sync as the crank rotates. If that happens then you can expect a very rapid bang as the valves go through the pistons. Or am i missing something like providing the tensioner is in the exact right place then it does not matter what length the belt is? My head started to hurt as i tried to think about the crank rotating and what the impact is on the cams with fewer teeth.
Nigel
Nigel
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Re: K series rebuild
Hi Nigel,
My F is a 96 which had the 23mm wide belt and manual tensioner, I think the auto tensioner came in at 2000-2001 which had the 26mm wide belt. I'm using the later head, but with the older manual tensioner, which you can do if you drill and tap for the locking bolt, using original bottom sprocket and can pulleys, just not sure if I need to change anything else.
My F is a 96 which had the 23mm wide belt and manual tensioner, I think the auto tensioner came in at 2000-2001 which had the 26mm wide belt. I'm using the later head, but with the older manual tensioner, which you can do if you drill and tap for the locking bolt, using original bottom sprocket and can pulleys, just not sure if I need to change anything else.
- RobboMC
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Re: K series rebuild
A new belt can be awful to get to slide in to place, there's not much extra length for the tensioner to take up.The old one wrote: ↑Sat Jan 18, 2020 1:14 pmHi Rob all,
Finally got my back side in gear and Finnish the polishing and porting, I used the later head. But drilled and tapped to take the manual adjuster. I'm trying to slide on a new 23mm wide belt , but no matter how I try I'm about the thickness of the belt short in sliding it over. Am I missing something or do I need the 26mm with the 2 extra teeth for it too work . have pictures but not sure how too upload.
Many thanks Steve
I have hit this hurdle once and my arm still hurts from trying to get the belt on in the car.
The solution is to unlock the flywheel lock and gently move the crank a few degrees to get MORE tension on the exhaust run side.
The issue for me was that when there's not enough tension on the exhaust run then it's impossible to get the belt over the tensioner.
Once the belt is fitted for a week, remove and replace the correct way and it should go on fine. The issue is that the new belt needs a
bit of stretch to fit easily.
The other way to do it is to remove the crank sprocket, sit in in the belt and replace the sprocket with the belt in it. ( NOT recommended if you can help it) Then remove and replace a week later.
In the end, you MUST rotate the whole thing to make sure all the marks keep coming back together, rotate at least 8-10 times and check, check and check again before hitting the starter motor.
- RobboMC
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Re: K series rebuild
The old one wrote: ↑Sat Jan 18, 2020 3:43 pmHi Nigel,
My F is a 96 which had the 23mm wide belt and manual tensioner, I think the auto tensioner came in at 2000-2001 which had the 26mm wide belt. I'm using the later head, but with the older manual tensioner, which you can do if you drill and tap for the locking bolt, using original bottom sprocket and can pulleys, just not sure if I need to change anything else.
Count the teeth on your pulleys, the cam pulleys MUST have double the number of teeth as the crank pulley as the crank must turn exactly twice for each rotation of the camshafts.
Re: K series rebuild
Loosen the manual tensioner so that it can wooble a bit. This should allow you to get the belt on.
Why are you reverting back to the manual tensioner? When I replaced the head on my 1995 F, I was glad for the change to auto tension, so much easier to get on and tension.
Why are you reverting back to the manual tensioner? When I replaced the head on my 1995 F, I was glad for the change to auto tension, so much easier to get on and tension.
Mark
- Rob Bell
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Re: K series rebuild
On a tuned engine, the manual tensioner is preferred by engine tuners like Dave Andrews. Apparently stronger with more consistent tension? Interestingly, the VVC always used the manual tensioner even after the MPi versions of the engine went over to auto-tensioners. Setting the tension withe manual version is not too difficult, and I have happily rebuilt later engines with the earlier tensioner arrangement.mowog73 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 20, 2020 1:19 pmLoosen the manual tensioner so that it can wooble a bit. This should allow you to get the belt on.
Why are you reverting back to the manual tensioner? When I replaced the head on my 1995 F, I was glad for the change to auto tension, so much easier to get on and tension.
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Re: K series rebuild
Thanks all,
All back together, all underneath work completed, just have to refill with water Bleed and fill with oil turn the key and see what happens.
Steve.
All back together, all underneath work completed, just have to refill with water Bleed and fill with oil turn the key and see what happens.
Steve.
- Rob Bell
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Re: K series rebuild
Fingers crossed now Steve
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Re: K series rebuild
Hi all,
Just a quick update, all back together, would it start, would it hell. Even tried towing, in case the lifter's where holding the valves open no joy. Both can wheels and bottom sprocket lined up spot on, one final check before striping the head down this weekend. Timed back up to 90 bftdc, removed cam wheel's and washers, as it's difficult to see the camshaft dowel's, took picture of inlet cam, correct, took picture of exhaust cam 180 degree out. Repositioned exhaust can , tensioned belt closed my eyes and turned the key, started first time and sounds really good. Was on the rolling road 2 years ago, and made 140.2, back on the road on the rolling road on 22nd will video and put on Instagram, hence my user name, school boy error.
Steve.
Just a quick update, all back together, would it start, would it hell. Even tried towing, in case the lifter's where holding the valves open no joy. Both can wheels and bottom sprocket lined up spot on, one final check before striping the head down this weekend. Timed back up to 90 bftdc, removed cam wheel's and washers, as it's difficult to see the camshaft dowel's, took picture of inlet cam, correct, took picture of exhaust cam 180 degree out. Repositioned exhaust can , tensioned belt closed my eyes and turned the key, started first time and sounds really good. Was on the rolling road 2 years ago, and made 140.2, back on the road on the rolling road on 22nd will video and put on Instagram, hence my user name, school boy error.
Steve.
- talkingcars
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Re: K series rebuild
Simple error but also a simple fix.
Home to black Alfa 159 3.2 V6 Q4, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and grey MGF 1.8i, and red MG Maestro T16.
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