Project Shed MoT fail: brake light switch!
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Not many rules really, this board being aimed at technical issues, it shouldn't fall foul (hopefully) of some of the more personal issues that can affect forums.
Rule 1 - Is that you need to think very carefully before posting anything technical or asking anything technical relating to the security system of the car - See 'Security Issues' sticky for more info.
Rule 2 - We (MGF Register) do not support copyright infringement and therefore references to CD ROM, PDF versions or paper copies of the workshop manual (for instance) should not be posted on the forum. We don't want to get into trouble and we'd rather sell you a genuine hard copy through our Regalia shop anyway!
Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
- Rob Bell
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Project Shed MoT fail: brake light switch!
Hi Guys,
Project Shed failed its MoT I'm embarrassed to say. Rear tyres and the brake light switch.
I knew the tyres were marginal, and I have replacements on order (coming next week, but thought the current ones would just sneak a pass) - but the MoT man he say "nay!" No worries - easy to sort out.
The brake light fail is annoying and I should have spotted this sooner. It's the usual problem of the self-adjusting brake light switch self-adjusting itself so that it stays on all the time. I was at Prescott last weekend, so big brake moments there probably caused the problem. In fact, there are some pictures of the car on the hill with the brake lamps lit - so probably where the issue occurred.
Again an easy fix. Just wondered though: has anyone found a solution to this annoying habit? Or should I fit a tell-tail so I know when the brake lamps are on? I could always fit an alternative brake switch, but would be interested to hear if anyone else has "fixed" this problem?
Project Shed failed its MoT I'm embarrassed to say. Rear tyres and the brake light switch.
I knew the tyres were marginal, and I have replacements on order (coming next week, but thought the current ones would just sneak a pass) - but the MoT man he say "nay!" No worries - easy to sort out.
The brake light fail is annoying and I should have spotted this sooner. It's the usual problem of the self-adjusting brake light switch self-adjusting itself so that it stays on all the time. I was at Prescott last weekend, so big brake moments there probably caused the problem. In fact, there are some pictures of the car on the hill with the brake lamps lit - so probably where the issue occurred.
Again an easy fix. Just wondered though: has anyone found a solution to this annoying habit? Or should I fit a tell-tail so I know when the brake lamps are on? I could always fit an alternative brake switch, but would be interested to hear if anyone else has "fixed" this problem?
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Re: Project Shed MoT fail: brake light switch!
Rob,
I think a tell-tell would be a good idea, possibly a red led in direct line of sight. once my brake switch starts playing up, and I have to remove to reset the plunger, time for a new switch, I keep a spare in the glove box.
I think a tell-tell would be a good idea, possibly a red led in direct line of sight. once my brake switch starts playing up, and I have to remove to reset the plunger, time for a new switch, I keep a spare in the glove box.
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Re: Project Shed MoT fail: brake light switch!
Maybe a discreet green one would be better.
Home to black Alfa 159 3.2 V6 Q4, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and grey MGF 1.8i, and red MG Maestro T16.
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Re: Project Shed MoT fail: brake light switch!
Hi Rob, sorry to hear of the MoT problem and hope it will be resolved shortly. I was wondering if I could pester you about tyres. I've recently bought a TF160 and I'm having great trouble with the tyres. I have the Toyo Proxy onboard except that the fronts are Japanese made and rears are Malaysian. The car suffers from understeer and I've been looking for Japanese manufactured rear tyres (215/40) but without any success. What tyres are you using on your F? I'm sure this has been asked 1,000s of times so apologies for probably boring you with this subject again. Cheers...
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Re: Project Shed MoT fail: brake light switch!
Hi and welcome to the forum.
I don't think you can get new Japanese Toyo's.
Probably worth stating your own thread on the subject for maximum exposure.
James
I don't think you can get new Japanese Toyo's.
Probably worth stating your own thread on the subject for maximum exposure.
James
Home to black Alfa 159 3.2 V6 Q4, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and grey MGF 1.8i, and red MG Maestro T16.
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Re: Project Shed MoT fail: brake light switch!
I got rid of the self adjusting brake switch as it was constantly failing under heavy braking for me. I replaced it with a switch from a ZS (although it could have come from anywhere) and some creative modifying of the mounting point.
Actually turns out that the issue for me all along was the mounting point had bent, but I am much happier with the different switch and got through 3 MOT's with it since
Actually turns out that the issue for me all along was the mounting point had bent, but I am much happier with the different switch and got through 3 MOT's with it since
- Rob Bell
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Re: Project Shed MoT fail: brake light switch!
Thanks guys: MoT was all sorted by next morning, but the brake lights were stuck on again yesterday. The self-ratcheting switch misbehaving itself again. I've reset it - seems good for now, but I agree, it would be better without a self-mal-adjusting switch!!!
Are later TF brake switches also self adjusting nightmares?
I agree with you James - a warning light other than red might be good... maybe a blue LED?
Are later TF brake switches also self adjusting nightmares?
I agree with you James - a warning light other than red might be good... maybe a blue LED?
- Rob Bell
- Committee Member
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- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:36 pm
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Re: Project Shed MoT fail: brake light switch!
Tyres wise, the rears (after Prescott) were down to 2.4mm tread, but weirdly still a fraction higher than the tread indicators on the Federal tyres I was using? I've replaced all four (the fronts still had 4.4mm on them after 8.5k miles), and have fitted Yoko Advan AD08Rs - they're 1B tyres, in 205/45R16 profile.
I had planned to use a set of ULW wheels I got some years ago. However, I noticed one was slightly out of round on the outer rim, so I took it and the other 3 to a wheel shop. More bad news. It wasn't slightly out of round. It wasn't even one wheel out of round, but 3 had been warped. Luckily one good one out of the lot. One of the wheels has been TIG welded before, but also beaten into shape. So I've fitted the new tyres to a spare set of "Abingdon" (aka "Cup") wheels - the same style as fitted to the Shed before. Not noticed much difference between the Yokos and the Federals yet, but time will tell... racing at the Abingdon Sprint tomorrow: a nice airfield to scrub off the surface layer of rubber!
I had planned to use a set of ULW wheels I got some years ago. However, I noticed one was slightly out of round on the outer rim, so I took it and the other 3 to a wheel shop. More bad news. It wasn't slightly out of round. It wasn't even one wheel out of round, but 3 had been warped. Luckily one good one out of the lot. One of the wheels has been TIG welded before, but also beaten into shape. So I've fitted the new tyres to a spare set of "Abingdon" (aka "Cup") wheels - the same style as fitted to the Shed before. Not noticed much difference between the Yokos and the Federals yet, but time will tell... racing at the Abingdon Sprint tomorrow: a nice airfield to scrub off the surface layer of rubber!
- Rob Bell
- Committee Member
- Posts: 14425
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:36 pm
- MGF Register Region: South East
- Model of Car: MGF 1.8i + MGF Shed!
Re: Project Shed MoT fail: brake light switch!
Ah, the great tyre debate! What do you use the car for? What are your priorities for the car? For road and track use, I'd have no hesitation in recommending the Federal 595RSRs I had on the Shed - but they are summer track tyres with decent wet performance, so if you are using the car all year round these may not be for you. Also, I wore out the rears in 8.5k miles - but sprint and hill climbs do that. From historical experience, these tyres wore at about twice the rate as "normal" tyres - but I could have got more from them by cycling the tyres front to rear.K.T.F wrote:Hi Rob, sorry to hear of the MoT problem and hope it will be resolved shortly. I was wondering if I could pester you about tyres. I've recently bought a TF160 and I'm having great trouble with the tyres. I have the Toyo Proxy onboard except that the fronts are Japanese made and rears are Malaysian. The car suffers from understeer and I've been looking for Japanese manufactured rear tyres (215/40) but without any success. What tyres are you using on your F? I'm sure this has been asked 1,000s of times so apologies for probably boring you with this subject again. Cheers...
If a road biased tyre, the Toyo T1R was okay, but it was never my favourite (that was easily the Bridgestone S-02, but they've been unavailable for many years). I am planning to use Michelin Pilot Sport 3's on my road car (MSA list 1A, available in 205/45R16), as the Toyo's on the car are now too old to be any good.
If on more of a budget, look to buy the best performance tyre you can in a size that is suitable. Always replace all 4 together (you'll avoid the much publicised handling imbalance) and be prepared to use non-standard tyre sizes. MG themselves put 185, 195 and 215 width front tyres and 205 and 215 width on the rear, and a really good balance I've found is with 205 front and rear. Used this width on both 15" and 16" rims. Nicely balanced, with minimal understeer.