Changing starter motor mg tf 135 03

[Ian denton]

Hi I need to change my starter motor is there any advice for getting to the bottom bolt .? The top boil look easy from the boot. My cool blue mg as been lowered and I only have a standard jack at home. What the best way of changing the motor. Thanks ian

[The old one]

Hi Ian,
If you could borrow some ramps it would make the job a lot easier, I changed mine a couple of weeks ago top bolt is relatively easy, but the bottom bolt, I enlisted the help of my son. I laid underneath the car holding the nut in place , while my son sat in the boot with a rachet short extension and socket. Don't forget to connect up the alternator cable, mine dropped down and then I wondered why the ignition light was on.

[mowog73]

No ramps are needed and all bolts can be accessed from the boot, well at least with an F all can be accessed from the boot. Due to changing 3 timing belts since January, I have had 3 starter motors off and did it all from the boot.

[Gavin207]

Agreed, on a TF it can be accessed with the engine cover removed and from the boot. it's easier if you remove the charcoal fuel canister from its bracket and move it out of the way. It just needs various combinations of sockets and extensions to reach below and behind the inlet manifold. if your car has been lowered it will make it easier - I had to stand on a small stool to be able to reach far enough down from the boot to get at the nut, and i'm 5' 11 1/2" ( never quite made it to 6' )

[Ian denton]

Thank you all for the advice I will have ago this weekend it is to sunny not to have my mg on the road
Ian

[Rob Bell]

Long extensions help:



More here in the Project Shed blog: http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/project_shed/part16.htm

[Rob Bell]

PS I also seem to remember that that hole in the inner rear wheel arch panel was perfectly aligned for one of the starter motor bolts, and my extension fitted through it perfectly - as if it was designed for the job! It isn't - it's there on an MGF as a mounting point for the resonator box (not used on the TF).

[RobboMC]

I'm not certain of the shape of a TF in there is identical to an F, but on my car I can get the starter motor bolts out and back in without going through the wheel arch.
First remove the big fat air supply hose ( after removing the engine cover first of course ) between the air filter and the throttle body, and loosen up and unclip the charcoal canister so you can wiggle it out of the way at will.

For the bottom bolt use a ring spanner on the bolt ( starter motor side ) and a ratchet on the nut with no extensions. You only get 2 clicks of the ratchet, but that's enough to get the nut loose.

For the top one, I use a ratchet with a 4" extension on the bolt held via the engine cover hole and a ring spanner on the nut.

Once the nut is loose it's possible to recover it with your fingers by sticking your arm in across from the starter motor side. ( A really handy learned skill when doing this job )

There is one last trick, hold the left side tool with your right hand and the right sided tool with your left hand, so your arms cross at the wrists.
This allows your hands to get into a smaller hole!

I generally use 1/2" square drive tools on the starter motor bolts to get them tight, torque wrench in there is impossible, just do them as tight as the tools allow and they should be right.

As mowog73 writes: once you've done it 3 times you'll be a wizz! I have also changed 3 timing belts in the last 18 months and I use the flywheel lock.

[Rob Bell]

yup, multiple ways to do the same job - just use what works for you