Recommended tools required for MGF - ?

[MarkB]

Can anyone recommend a good quality socket set including tools that would cater for most of the challengers I would expect to encounter on an approx list of ‘to do’s’ on a 2001 MGF that is off the road now and in need of urgent issues sorted and the unexpected issues that will no doubt appear from nowhere – List so far – All interior removed ‘some dials need changing and the dreaded gear cables are suspect replacement or repair’, all belts and water pump change, alternator looks cracked, brake pads and disks replaced etc. I have already encountered the ‘trox’ tools needed –I did read somewhere that when replacing brake pads a ‘piston’ pusher is required – I am pretty sure most bolts are metric – I don’t mind spending good money on a good quality set – just wanted some advice on what to have to hand to avoid going back and forth to Halfords or similar for required tools. Luckily running a VVC on the road so some back and forth for bits is possible.. Thanks for any advice on offer.

[Neil Rushton]

Most of the tools I have are Teng, good quality stuff, Halfords Proffesional is also supposed to be good & they frequently have some excellent offers on their kit.

[Geoff.F]

With 40 years in the Aircraft Industry, the only Tools that we used are Snap-On.
With rare exceptions all are Metric. Initial buy would be Sets of 12 Point Sockets (1/4 & 3/8 Drive) each with 3 lengths of Extensions, Ratchets and "T" Handles. 1/2inch to 3/8, and 3/8 to 1/4 Adaptors. 1/2 inch by 18inch Breaker Bar.
Modern production methods no longer use ring or open ended spanners however there are some exceptions viz. 3 bolts on the front of the engine cover.
It is Important that you have a (or 2) good Torque wrench (es) whilst over torqueing is as dangerous as under and threads are easy pulled in aluminium parts.
The other "Tool" is a Workshop Manual either in Hard copy from Register Regalia or maybe a CD from Rimmers. My CD is Original MGR.
When you find that you require aditional tools for odd jobs, Go"Online" for next day delivery before Halfords.
Geoff,F

[Rob Bell]

Pretty much the whole car is metric, bar the upper ball joints that are shared with London Taxis...

What tools do you have already? Invariably, the tools you need vary upon the job you're tackling. The basics would be a socket set. I bought a really nice and surprisingly cheap 6-point socket set on the bay of fleas over 10 years ago - it's one of my favourites. IMO 6-point is far superior to 12 as they are far less likely to lead to rounding off of bolt heads.

You'll need 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" ratchets as well as sockets. My absolute favourite tool happens to be a 1/4" ratchet that was so helpful in disassembling smaller nuts and bolts in the parts car strip down and Project Shed build up.

Good quality screw driver set is useful. I'd say a good quality ratchet spanner set is worth its weight in gold. Also consider a good quality open and ring spanner, and cranked spanner sets.

I've found that a leather oil filter wrench has many uses - particularly if removing dampers (you can use it to stop the damper body rotating with the retaining nut).

Also get yourself a decent torque wrench - you'll need it come vehicle reassembly.

I could go on and on and on and on... you can't have too many tools - and some specialised stuff are absolutely life savers on the one occasion you'll need to use it. Like I say, it depends on what job you're tackling. But I took an entire car apart with basically the tools mentioned above, and then put it back together again. Luckily, these cars are pretty simple and relatively easy to work on (don't listen to the daft nay-sayers - they haven't tried working on a modern contemporary vehicle!)

Good luck

[mgtfnut]

I'd go with everything above, especially 6 point sockets.
Perhaps not quiet as convenient as 12 point sockets, but well worth a set for stubborn fastenings. Don't believe the interwebby claims that MG-R fastenings are made of chocolate, they're just industry standard 8.8 for the most part, but probably never been disturbed since initial assembly!
Good luck.

[CubMG]

I like Halfords advanced tools they are very good quality,and they are better than snap off in that you can get a replacement tool the same day up to 8pm most days and also on Sunday.Look for deals and with christmas coming they usually have a sale.

[Geoff.F]

I like Halfords advanced tools they are very good quality,and they are better than snap off in that you can get a replacement tool the same day up to 8pm most days and also on Sunday.Look for deals and with christmas coming they usually have a sale.

Yes, if you buy cheap poor quality tools from Halfords, then you may well need to go back for a replacement.
Buy a quality tool for rather more, then it is cheaper because you will never need to buy a replacement or have to remove/replace a damaged nut.
My Toolbox goes back 55+ years, with much use, I have never needed to replace a Snap-On damaged or worn out tool. If I ever had to, then it is FOC.
Geoff.F

[talkingcars]

Yes, if you buy cheap poor quality tools from Halfords, then you may well need to go back for a replacement.

I agree with you here Geoff on the subject of cheap poor quality tools from Halfords, or from any where for that matter.

However the Halfords Pro, Professional and Advanced range are reasonably priced good quality tools with a life time guarantee. They are made by companies including Teng and Snap On and it shows.

If you are canny you can pick up sets a greatly reduced prices as they run out one set before the new years model.

I have 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" socket sets, a large spanner set from 6mm up to 36mm, a ratchet spanner set from 8mm to 19mm, a screw driver bit set with a ratchet handle drive which is incredibly useful plus lots of extras that I have bought as I need them. Luckily I pass 1 store on my way home from work and the local store is only a 3 mile sprint away for that tool I find I need at 3.30 on a Sunday afternoon.

My tools have a hard live for hobby usage but in 20 years of Halfords pro tools I haven't had a failure.

As a starting I would get a good quality set of sockets, a good trolley jack (I have a ultra low Halfords one and 2 cheap ones, Lidl had some at £20 last weekend) and a pair of axle stands. Then buy what you need as you go.

For guidance there are some good how to guides around the net including some at http://www.the-t-bar.com

[MarkB]

Thank you so much for all the great advice as always - I have started compiling as list and will be using the 'rule' - quality tools will always out last cheaper replacements all the time. Interior stripped now and soon will begin on the more tricky tasks - Have to say that the MGF's are great fun to work on so far and appears most stubborn problems there tends to be a logical solution.. I have cut and pasted all the many useful tips into a pocket guide which I will then add all the useful tips I pick up along the way as I am pretty sure this will not be the last MGF I decide to base projects on. I suspect I will have the need to post again asking for advice. Thank again so much..

[RobboMC]

I wouldn't be thinking along the lines of getting all the tools up front, just accept the fact that you'll need to visit the local motor parts shop many, many times. A dedicated tool set is something that grows with your experience. I have some great brake tools like a proper pad retractor and a rounded clamp ( stops the fluid going backwards into the ABS ) that have been worth their weight in gold over the years serving on all the daily drivers as well as the MG's.

I have recently invested in a good set of 6 point deep sockets for those difficult to remove bolts, in 3/8" drive for the small engine bay.

For the timing belt you WILL need the special tools, on my car some idiot before me tried to loosen the crank bolt by jamming a screwdriver into the
flywheel and sheared a tooth off, as well as breaking the starter motor.

My advice is when you need a special tool, just go and invest in it, as it means the job gets done properly. And the internet is your friend here, I got my flywheel lock and hydragas pump from the UK delivered out to Sydney no worries.

[the.postman]

Large can of "PlusGas" for dismantling and a tin of copperslip for re-assembly

[Rob Bell]

Don't copperslip everything - there are somethings it definitely can't be used for

[mgtfnut]

Don't copperslip everything - there are somethings it definitely can't be used for

Copperslip was good in it's day, but non metallic brake grease Mintex Ceratec is better for sliders, pad ears etc - not rubber of course - red grease for that.

Also, possible electrolytic action between steel hubs, alloy wheels, copper and water