Oil change on MGF 1.8 VVC

[Doccombe]

Hi all, this is my first MGF. Have had it now for 6 months with little use due to winter months and now Covid-19. I have decided to perform a service which would also be the 1st time I have performed any car servicing, have got all the parts but was wondering how others drain the oil. I have read that the car needs to be on a level service, with the car being on the drive there is little room to go under to remove the sump plug. Is it best to have the car on 4 axle stands.

Any advise is very welcome.

Thanks

[talkingcars]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

I normally drain the oil with all wheels on the ground.

James

[Gavin207]

I do mine with the rear wheels on ramps, on the basis that with the drain plug on the 'front' of the engine having the rear wheels higher will ensure better draining. Also it's much easier to get at the oil filter from underneath.

[Doccombe]

Had a look today, the oil tray I was given is too tall to fit under the car on the drive, the trolley jack won’t fit under...

Managed to locate a slim container to catch the oil... went to remove the sump plug no joy. I don’t think I have enough leverage with the amount of space. Looking at ramps do you need to get low profile ramps or will standard ones work for the back? On a positive side I changed the air filter, spark plugs and the fan speed resistor.

[Charless]

Standard ramps work on the back but not the front. When you do get the sump plug out don't fret about the copper washer, reuse it like I have for 15 oil changes on one of mine.
Also keep the old spark plugs 'just in case'. They were designed to last 50k but I have had more than 100k out of a set with perfect engine running.

[Geoff.F]

Your local Machine Mart will sell you Ramps and extensions to facilitate the initial lifting of the car. I also bolt a piece of angle iron across the garage floor to stop the ramps slipping.
As a "Beginner"you may buy a MGF Repair Manual from the Register Shop. This gives you nearly all of the info needed in particular the required Torque Loads (The amount that you must tighten the nuts, bolts etc.) This is important as large threads (like plugs) are easily overtightened causing the soft aluminium thread to fail.
I started helping out at a local garage.I learnt a lot. No pay but I had use of their tools and car lift to maintain my Restored 1937 Austin 7 Ruby.
Geoff.F

[talkingcars]

In the old days I used to use the car jack to lift the car enough to get my trolley jack under but then I bought a low trolley jack from Halfords that easily slides under the car.

[Barbour]

Standard ramps work on the back but not the front. When you do get the sump plug out don't fret about the copper washer, reuse it like I have for 15 oil changes on one of mine.
Also keep the old spark plugs 'just in case'. They were designed to last 50k but I have had more than 100k out of a set with perfect engine running.

Never go cheap on maintenance, "pennywise, pound foolish" but keeping them for spares is a good idea. But I've seen bad plugs ruin engines that where deemed indestructible.

Also, the copper washer is cheap, reusing it won't break things, make sure to clean everything, the worst that can happen is leaking.

[Neil Rushton]

I’ve done an oil change on our 2010 TF today I jacked it up to give a bit more room & boy did I need it as although I’d bought a filter removal tool (74-76mm 15 flutes) the filter wouldn’t move & the new tool kept slipping so I reverted to the chain type I have & although a PITA to use it loosened it sufficiently to use the new tool on a ratchet I had to use a 3/8 breaker bar on the sump plug which I fitted with a new washer & torqued to 25nm as I once bought 10 off eBay & at current use age rate it will be 2030 before they’re used up!

[talkingcars]

1 cooper washer from Halfords is £2, a box of many mixed cooper washers including about 10 of the correct size is £8.

[mgtfnut]

For over 20 years I've used http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/oil ... /index.php self sealing drain valves on all 3 vehicles. We had a Rover 25 TD before the Skoda Yeti - but the main dealer services this now as the sump guard needs removing first which can be a bit fiddly
It does make draining out the oil more tidy - the flexy tube can be pre located in the drainage container before screwing in the tube male connector to release the oil.

Other makes of valve are available, mine are brass bodied, but it appears the new ones are steel. They have all been 100% reliable - the dust cover is "O" ring sealed and is hand tightened enough to stop it loosening. The real seal is the spring loaded plunger in the main body of the unit.

Self sealing hose couplings have been around for decades in aviation fuelling, hydraulics, air lines, motorsport etc and are well proven.