MGF Problem starting and then stops after a few minutes

[Wakefield1]

Hello everybody, I am new to the forum. I have just bought a 1996 MGF, needs a few things sorting but the main problem at the minute is starting.

It struggles to start and then when it does, seems to run fine for either 10/20 secs and then just cuts out or can run for a few minutes before cutting out. I have changed fuel filter and crankshaft sensor but still no joy. Does anybody have any ideas what the problem might be please, would like it sorting before I start throwing more money at the car

Thanks in advance

Garry

[nigelandjo]

Hello and welcome. Couple of things to check/consider as a starting point. How old is the petrol? Is the earth strap to the engine in good condition? What is the condition of the ignition leads / rotor cap? I'm sure someone that's more technical than me will be along shortly.

[Wakefield1]

Hello thanks for the reply, car has been off the road for about 8 years before I bought it but did put fresh petrol in. Will check the earth strap, leads and rotor cap look ok but probably do no harm to replace those along with the spark plugs.
Love the car though and looking forward to getting it on the road

[Barbour]

8 years, my guess is the old petrol has gummed up the injection system, so it can't deliver enough fuel. Good injector cleaner might work, also check the airfilter etc.

[Charless]

If it is an MPi then definitely worth trying a new distributor cap and rotor arm. Does it run smoothly before cutting out or is it lumpy?
If not checked yet, the plug leads at both ends and the king lead connections may well be corroded giving intermittent sparking which is what it sounds like.

[Wakefield1]

Thanks for the reply, I am going to change the leads rotor and cap, will get some injector cleaner,

Will keep everyone posted on the progress

[Rob Bell]

Hopefully something really simple. Stale petrol likely a culprit: these engines usually start and run on the first turn of the crankshaft.

Do you have a code reader? pscan is a worthwhile purchase if you have a project car, as it will read fault codes, live data and all the other ECUs in the car.

[Geoff.F]

I had a similar problem with my 2000 Steptronic. It would start and idle but only accelerate to about 1500 RPM at which it would die suggesting that it was an airflow problem. The air filter was clean and the inlet ducting OK. Exhaust off and catalytic converter replaced. Action Cured Problem.
One dead Cat.
Geoff.F

[Wakefield1]

Thanks, I am looking to get a code reader, where's the best place to get a pscan and approx price please?
When weather picks up going to change leads, plugs etc.
I will post any developments

Thanks again Garry

[markvrs]

Hi,
Go to www.pscan.uk and they have all the details there. They are £159. I've got one and highly recommended if you are planning on keeping your F and doing your own work.

Cheers, Mark

[Rob Bell]

It will also read all 90s-onwards MG Rovers, so if you're a masochist like me, this widget will be endlessly useful...

[Wakefield1]

Thanks, sounds like a good investment

[Wakefield1]

Just an update, bypassed the petrol cut off inertia switch and problem solved, will be buying a new one next week, just brakes now and a few other bits and then off for its not

Thanks for the help guys Garry

[Rob Bell]

That’s a new one on me. I guess electrical contacts have corroded?

[Wakefield1]

Could be, mate of mine suggested checking it, he had broken down and couldn't sort it. Called the AA and they found that to be the issue.

Cheers Garry

[talkingcars]

Another vote for www.pscan.uk as your mk1 MPi will be OBD1 so can't be read with a generic OBD2 reader. Also the pscan will access other areas of the electronics not available on a generic reader.

[Wakefield1]

Hi

I thought my problem was solved but sadly not. Still have trouble starting and when it does start will then run for up to 5 minutes before cutting out, other times it will only run for a few seconds.
I have set my new pscan tool up and its showing 3 faults. coolant temp sensor, crank sensor signal and I think the other was crank shaft sync (but not always fault).
I will change the coolant sensor (although the wires near the connector are split but wire looks ok) I have already changed the crank shaft sensor.
I will report back any updates but would be grateful for any advice

Thanks Garry

[talkingcars]

If the wiring is damaged it might be worth replacing the damaged sections.

[Charless]

The coolant temperature sensor isn't 'the' problem but I now suspect the fuel pump may be. Do you hear it switch on for three seconds when the ignition is switched on? Don't confuse it with the stepper motor which is louder. It should then run continuously while the engine is running but stop as soon as the engine stops turning (or the inertia switch is triggered). I am running a thread on pump testing and will put up some things you might want to try tomorrow.

[Wakefield1]

Thanks for the reply, will have a look at your thread

Cheers Garry