TF subframe mount rust issue

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mgb281
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Feb 05, 2022 8:37 am
MGF Register Region: Somerset & Dorset

TF subframe mount rust issue

Post by mgb281 » Sat May 07, 2022 11:16 am

I have at long last removed the rear subframe complete with engine and gearbox. It went very well the only two problems was that one torx bolt for the rear bumper wouldn’t undo despite plenty of plusgas and secondly the heater hoses which the twist and unlock didn’t :rant:
Now that it’s out There’s a lot of rust on the subframe mounts on the body shell and a strip about six inches high across the firewall right out to the bottom of the arches. I will ponder how to remove it, the area around the mounting brackets is too fiddly to do with a wire brush so any suggestions are welcome.
You will see how the subframes are but you can see one MGF mount and one TF :roll: I was hoping to do more this weekend but my wife went to a funeral in Hampshire yesterday on returning to the car it turned over it wouldn’t start, she tried twice at hourly intervals and on the third attempt it sprung into life. This morning I took it to the dealership to enquire if they could look at it on Wednesday when replacement airbags are being fitted and on returning to the car it wouldn’t start, at least it’s broken down there rather than miles from home
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Rob Bell
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Model of Car: MGF 1.8i + MGF Shed!

Re: TF subframe mount rust issue

Post by Rob Bell » Mon May 09, 2022 12:14 pm

Maybe tackle the fiddly bits of dirt/corrosion with a Dremel and the rest as per usual with your favourite tool of choice?

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Steve White
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Re: TF subframe mount rust issue

Post by Steve White » Mon May 09, 2022 12:42 pm

Have a look at Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel.
Its a rust removal gel that can be used on parts that can't easily be removed or are hard to reach.
You have to apply the gel in a thick layer and stop it drying out (covering the area in clingfilm works).
Depending on the level of corrosion it may need to be left of for quite a while (up to 12 hours) and if your unable to remove the loose/flaky rust first it may need multiple applications to eat its way down to clean metal.
The more of the rust you can remove by hand first, the quicker/better it will work, and the less gel you need, so may be worth investing in some smaller wire brushes.

I'd also have a look at Bilt Hamber Hydrate-80 Rust Converter to apply once you down to clean-ish metal.

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