Replacing all subframe mounts

[Crash Dummy]

Hi,

I'm replacing all eight subframe mounts on my 1999 MGF VVC with Mike Satur solid mounts. I'm doing this without removing the subframes or the engine from the car.

What has got me stumped is the rear mounts on the rear subframe. After removing the nut on the long bolt, there isn't enough room to take out the bolt because it hits the engine casing. I have cut one bolt to get it out, but I can't get the replacement bolt back in.

The new bolts are about 20mm too long, so that's how much extra clearance I need. So, how do I get the bolts in?

If anyone has done this before and can point me in the right direction to solve this, I'd be forever grateful!

Many Thanks.

Sent from my Nokia 7 plus using Tapatalk

[Rob Bell]

Any pictures?

[Crash Dummy]

Rob,

Hi from frozen Melbourne. We've had a blast of cold air from Antarctica for the last two weeks giving us real "brass monkey" weather.

To hopefully make things clearer, I have attached two photos.

The first shows the new mount from Mike Satur. The big difference is there is no separate nut; it's welded onto the plate. The bolt goes through the subframe and screws directly into the mount plate.

The second photo shows the old left rear mount in position on the car looking from the rear. (I have already removed the right rear mount). On the old mount, the bolt goes through the mount from the rear then through the subframe and is held in place by a nut on the other side of the subframe.

So the standard setup doesn't need much clearance between the subframe and the engine. Just enough for the nut. The Mike Satur design has the bolt going in the opposite direction, coming through the subframe from the front, so it needs the entire length of the bolt clearance from the engine. By my measurement, the bolt is 150mm and the available clearance is about 140mm (for the right rear mount).

I spoke to Mike Satur about this and he suggests undoing the engine mounts and moving the engine to create the clearance I need. That seems like a lot of work and rather risky.

I hope that clarifies my problem.

Many thanks.

Sent from my Nokia T20 using Tapatalk

[Reckless Rat]

Mike Satur knows his stuff. It might be a bit complicated to move the engine at the same time as the subframe but it must be possible.

[Kasper]

I can’t help you on this but at the moment I have 6 solid mounts fixed and left the two at the rear od the sub frame as it was. Just for the same reason. Looking for a perfect combination of things to do at the rear to do these nasty mountings at the same time. With only 6 mounts installed there is already a notable improvement on handling of the car.

[Rob Bell]

Mike is probably right - that may be the only way to do this - but I'll have a think...

[talkingcars]

I went the other way retaining the rubber MGF mounts when I fitted TF subframes to my F, I wanted to retain the GT feel of the earlier car.

[RobboMC]

I can’t help you on this but at the moment I have 6 solid mounts fixed and left the two at the rear od the sub frame as it was. Just for the same reason. Looking for a perfect combination of things to do at the rear to do these nasty mountings at the same time. With only 6 mounts installed there is already a notable improvement on handling of the car.

So Kasper you would recommend this for someone looking to improve handling of a standard F ????

[RobboMC]

" THE FRONT SUBFRAME OR REAR SUBFRAME AS THE BOLT LENGTHS ARE DIFFERENT"

Is it possible that you have the front and rear bolts mixed up?

When I fitted my roll hoops I ran into this issue with bolts diameters, it took me a while
to get the right bolts in the right holes.

[Kasper]

I can’t help you on this but at the moment I have 6 solid mounts fixed and left the two at the rear od the sub frame as it was. Just for the same reason. Looking for a perfect combination of things to do at the rear to do these nasty mountings at the same time. With only 6 mounts installed there is already a notable improvement on handling of the car.

So Kasper you would recommend this for someone looking to improve handling of a standard F ????

Sorry, took a while before popping up here again, being too busy to spend much time behind the PC to do MG-stuff. But my reply would be that it would not be the first thing to do for me. I do have Polybushes all around (purple)for years now and I think fitting of these had a much bigger impact on the handling of the car.
I did do the mounts simultaneously with replacing the 26 year old shocks by GAZ adjustable shocks all around, and yes the car handles much better since then. However we cannot escape the feeling that the shocks have a much bigger impact to the mounts.

My goal is to improve my '96 Mk1 up to a level that rises above that of a Trophy, on brakes (AP304 front + 280 rear), Handling, (Polybushes + solid mounts) and power (Trophy cylinder head, 52mm TB) I'm almost there: only MEMS 3 + KMAPS on the list. (but at reaching every goal the lists gets some additional items)

[RobboMC]

I have also read that once you get to (Trophy cylinder head, 52mm TB) + MEMS 3 + KMAPS that you'll need a higher pressure fuel pump
so you can get more fuel in to make the bangs bigger A set of Lotus/Piper cams wouldn't go astray either.

It's a deep rabbit hole as my son says.

[Kasper]

I have also read that once you get to (Trophy cylinder head, 52mm TB) + MEMS 3 + KMAPS that you'll need a higher pressure fuel pump
so you can get more fuel in to make the bangs bigger A set of Lotus/Piper cams wouldn't go astray either.

It's a deep rabbit hole as my son says.

Worth thinking over…..

Now it doesn’t bang, you should not do that in our country as it is called “unnescesary noise” and fined. Police has started mors strong action against it as all kind of “youngster” cars have it, resulting in a lot of irritation by others. And to be honest, i do agree as where I live it is excessive.

It is far from a “money no object” project, it took over 20 years to get to this point, but the urge to improve has been very much alive for all the time, and still is. And it is not alone in my MG shed…..

[talkingcars]

.....I do have Polybushes all around (purple).....

The colour of the bushes is chosen by the manufacturer.
The "shore" value is the level of compression, natural rubber being 70 shore and solid being 100 shore.
I had a set of poly bushes made up in lime green for my forest green TF subframes on my BRG MGF VVC at 70 shore, again to retain the MGF GT feel.

[RobboMC]

I have also read that once you get to (Trophy cylinder head, 52mm TB) + MEMS 3 + KMAPS that you'll need a higher pressure fuel pump
so you can get more fuel in to make the bangs bigger

Sorry Kasper I used a bit of slang here and I didn't realise the translation might not be perfect.

I was not referring to the disgusting and horrid pops and bangs that seem to be tuned into some modern hot rods.
I really like the way the MGF is quite a fast car while remaining very quiet.

The bangs I was referring to are the combustion inside the cylinders. The more petrol you can get in there then the larger the combustion will be
and the more power will be generated. Some have written that a higher pressure fuel pump will feed the injectors faster and produce a horsepower gain.

[Kasper]

Sorry Kasper I used a bit of slang here and I didn't realise the translation might not be perfect.

No worries, it is good to have people from all ove the world joining and sharing the same passion. Good you noticed English is not my first language, by far… In the end we all understand what we are trying to tell, for some it might take a bit longer

[Crash Dummy]

Well, a couple of months have gone by since I first posted this thread. After many tries of unbolting the engine mounts and pushing the engine forward I could never get quite enough clearance to fit the bolt into the hole in the subframe. I decided to stay with the original rear subframe rear mounts. So now I have six stainless steel solid mounts and two in the original spec rubber mounts.

I hoped that would be the end of it, but alas!

I had removed one of the rear mounts using an angle grinder with a cutting wheel on the bolt, so I needed a new one. On checking Rimmer, I found the bolt matching my VIN was superceded by a different part, so I placed my order. On arrival, I discovered the original bolt was 185mm but the replacement (KYG000260) was 135mm... Hmmm.

I contacted Rimmers and they have apparently found the right part and it's on its way to me here in Melbourne. For anyone interested, the past number and description is FB114377M BOLT FLANGED HEAD M14 X 185

It's likely to take another month to arrive as I think they sent it by ordinary post. To their credit, they didn't charge me for it, or request the return of the bolt they first supplied.

To get me back on the road I found a 200mm bolt at a local fastener specialist and cut it down. I'll fit the replacement bolt when it arrives.

Cheers.

Sent from my Nokia T20 using Tapatalk

[talkingcars]

I ended up with a box of 18 x 190mm bolts as my local fixings factors had to order them especially and minimum order from their supplier is 20.

[Crash Dummy]

This won't be any consolation to talkingcars.
Since my last post, I found the part on Rimmer's web site. Go to MGF/TF parts, choose Rear Suspension, then Rear Subframe. The bolt is number 94 on the diagram. However, the right entry for my MGF is NOT in the right place. Look down the parts list and you will find it between number 90 and 91. Further down the list there are three more entries for item 94 right where they should be. That is why I didn't see the right one when I placed my order.