Inlet manifold
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Not many rules really, this board being aimed at technical issues, it shouldn't fall foul (hopefully) of some of the more personal issues that can affect forums.
Rule 1 - Is that you need to think very carefully before posting anything technical or asking anything technical relating to the security system of the car - See 'Security Issues' sticky for more info.
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Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
Not many rules really, this board being aimed at technical issues, it shouldn't fall foul (hopefully) of some of the more personal issues that can affect forums.
Rule 1 - Is that you need to think very carefully before posting anything technical or asking anything technical relating to the security system of the car - See 'Security Issues' sticky for more info.
Rule 2 - We (MGF Register) do not support copyright infringement and therefore references to CD ROM, PDF versions or paper copies of the workshop manual (for instance) should not be posted on the forum. We don't want to get into trouble and we'd rather sell you a genuine hard copy through our Regalia shop anyway!
Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
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Inlet manifold
Background 2002 TF135: I have a very small water leak which I'm having trouble locating I've been all under it and only found a pink stain near the crank pulley (1st spotted by MOT guy). I had no history on the belt so I fitted a new belt/pump but upon removing them they appeared nearly new, I did notice some staining above the pump but discounted it at the time.
Looking on line I discovered the inlet manifold may be the cause so can I tell if it's a plastic or alloy one (vin?) without removing the engine cover so I can order the parts before starting the strip.
On line it was also suggested that the cylinder 4 area was the most likely spot to leak, if the TF is 1-4 from the crank pulley as per norm then it's the wrong end if I take the previous staining (discounted) as witness so where should I look to possibly confirm.
Before anyone mentions you know what the car performs faultlessly, the temp is rock steady even in the weather we are currently experiencing, the new antifreeze (cam/belt change) is clean and the oil although due a change is a lovely clear honey colour.
Looking on line I discovered the inlet manifold may be the cause so can I tell if it's a plastic or alloy one (vin?) without removing the engine cover so I can order the parts before starting the strip.
On line it was also suggested that the cylinder 4 area was the most likely spot to leak, if the TF is 1-4 from the crank pulley as per norm then it's the wrong end if I take the previous staining (discounted) as witness so where should I look to possibly confirm.
Before anyone mentions you know what the car performs faultlessly, the temp is rock steady even in the weather we are currently experiencing, the new antifreeze (cam/belt change) is clean and the oil although due a change is a lovely clear honey colour.
- RobboMC
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Re: Inlet manifold
Stains at the crank pulley can be quite misleading. My story is about oil, not coolant, but the idea is the same.
I found oil leaking behind the crank pulley, so changed the crank seal ( and timing belt )
3 months later still leaking - so went looking, found oil on pulley so changed seal again ( and timing belt )
3 months later still leaking - went looking further, found oil around camshaft seals,
changed both pulley end seals and crank seal again ( and timing belt ) and cleaned out out breather system
6 months later still leaking; this time replaced all 4 camshaft oil seals, ( and timing belt and water pump) tightened down cam cover.
FIXED!
The moral of the story is the liquids run down the warm engine to the crank pulley. With coolant more likely to boil away I would be
looking towards the water pump seal. You mention the cam belt looked new, what about the water pump, a new one will be nice and shiny.
If you're going to strip it, perhaps do the water pump as well as the manifold seal.
I found oil leaking behind the crank pulley, so changed the crank seal ( and timing belt )
3 months later still leaking - so went looking, found oil on pulley so changed seal again ( and timing belt )
3 months later still leaking - went looking further, found oil around camshaft seals,
changed both pulley end seals and crank seal again ( and timing belt ) and cleaned out out breather system
6 months later still leaking; this time replaced all 4 camshaft oil seals, ( and timing belt and water pump) tightened down cam cover.
FIXED!
The moral of the story is the liquids run down the warm engine to the crank pulley. With coolant more likely to boil away I would be
looking towards the water pump seal. You mention the cam belt looked new, what about the water pump, a new one will be nice and shiny.
If you're going to strip it, perhaps do the water pump as well as the manifold seal.
- mgtfnut
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- Model of Car: TF 135
- Location: Dinas Powys
Re: Inlet manifold
Years ago, 2004 ish, I noticed some pink residues around the water pump, and I can't recall the details now, but there was talk of this being common.
It may have been that there was an evaporation ledge that held coolant while it evaporated from the seal.
At the next cambelt change, I changed the water pump and have never seen anymore pink staining. I think I left the same water pump on for many cam belt changes with no ill effects, however I changed the lot last year and the water pump looked like new after many years.
I never experienced any coolant loss, or any other problem.
Earlier F model with the plastic inlet manifold was more prone to gasket leaks, but I think the problem went away with the aluminium TF manifold.
As an aside, the water pump on my Suzuki is original from 1985/86 and 308k miles!
It may have been that there was an evaporation ledge that held coolant while it evaporated from the seal.
At the next cambelt change, I changed the water pump and have never seen anymore pink staining. I think I left the same water pump on for many cam belt changes with no ill effects, however I changed the lot last year and the water pump looked like new after many years.
I never experienced any coolant loss, or any other problem.
Earlier F model with the plastic inlet manifold was more prone to gasket leaks, but I think the problem went away with the aluminium TF manifold.
As an aside, the water pump on my Suzuki is original from 1985/86 and 308k miles!
Jerry
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
- talkingcars
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Re: Inlet manifold
You can see the inlet manifold from the boot. Plastic is black, alloy is bare metal.
We (my son) has removed the plastic inlet on our project F to replace the thermostat and are replacing it with an alloy one as they are less prone to leaking as they don't warp. We are actually using a MEMS3 version (as that was in my shed) by swapping the sensors and injectors.
Home to black Alfa 159 3.2 V6 Q4, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and grey MGF 1.8i, and red MG Maestro T16.
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- Location: Holbeach Lincs
Re: Inlet manifold
Thanks for all the advice, I feel a right idiot constantly checking the coolant and not noticing the inlet manifold right in my face DOH! it's an early car so it is plastic so I should probably start to look for an alloy one. I still can't see any signs of a leak but I'm going to borrow a mates endoscope to have a good look, I don't want to end up going down another dead end.
Re: Inlet manifold
The issue with the plastic inlet manifold and coolant leaks is more so related to the inlet manifold gasket becoming hard, shrinking and leaking coolant as a result, not due to warping. Best to change in the inlet manifold gasket to the updated viton one.talkingcars wrote: ↑Fri Aug 12, 2022 11:56 pm... are replacing it with an alloy one as they are less prone to leaking as they don't warp.
Mark
- talkingcars
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Re: Inlet manifold
So why doesn't this happen to the alloy manifolds?mowog73 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 15, 2022 7:26 pmThe issue with the plastic inlet manifold and coolant leaks is more so related to the inlet manifold gasket becoming hard, shrinking and leaking coolant as a result, not due to warping. Best to change in the inlet manifold gasket to the updated viton one.talkingcars wrote: ↑Fri Aug 12, 2022 11:56 pm... are replacing it with an alloy one as they are less prone to leaking as they don't warp.
Home to black Alfa 159 3.2 V6 Q4, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and grey MGF 1.8i, and red MG Maestro T16.
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