Has my belt skipped a tooth?

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Bobbyblue
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Has my belt skipped a tooth?

Post by Bobbyblue » Sat Apr 22, 2023 3:52 pm

Hello newbie here!
Just changing the cam belt on my tf 135 2004
Locked the cams in position with the tool, made sure the marks all lined up, fitted the new belt, adjusted the tensioner, then removed the cam tool and rotated the engine over twice, when I repositioned the cam tool with the cam marks aligned, the 2 marks on the crank are slightly off centre now….did it skip on rotation or is this ok ?
Excuse my paranoia! But want it to be ok before I try to start it?
Also is my tensioner ok in this final position? The slot and the wire are in the correct position
Thanks in advance
Bob
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Bobbyblue
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Re: Has my belt skipped a tooth?

Post by Bobbyblue » Sun Apr 23, 2023 8:19 am

Anybody have an idea please?
Thanks

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Charless
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Re: Has my belt skipped a tooth?

Post by Charless » Sun Apr 23, 2023 10:16 am

Hi Bob,
From my not huge experience of doing three and helping with several, I would think you are probably ok there. You would have noticed a tooth skip and the marks on the crank pulley and castings are known not to be deadly accurate
In the absence of expert K series engine builders the best alternative is to set it all up again (oh joy) and see if the pulley dots revert to that same slightly offset position after the two rotations. If they do then it will probably be as accurate as you are going to get but I know the frustration!

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mgtfnut
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Re: Has my belt skipped a tooth?

Post by mgtfnut » Sun Apr 23, 2023 3:12 pm

I also say try again.
Start with the crank pulley marks lining up, and get the first cam pulley engaged with the belt. Even with the cam locking tool engaged, there is still a bit of wiggle movement in rotation. This first stretch of belt has to be tight. I find wedging the cam belt against the plastic casing at both ends (crank pulley and cam pulley) to hold this position helps things fall into place.
The position of the tensioner adjusting arm is irrelevent, just ensure the marks line up as you have done.
Best to do it now before the engine is fired up and the belt is in it's new relaxed state.
Good luck.
Jerry
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k

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RobboMC
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Re: Has my belt skipped a tooth?

Post by RobboMC » Mon Apr 24, 2023 3:06 am

Firstly, there's no such thing as excess paranoia when fitting a timing belt, if you're not 200% sure it's right then DO NOT fire it up.

I have found it's quite easy to get the belt one tooth out. Unless the exhaust side run to the crank it held nice and tight you can get an extra tooth on that side of the engine. I found that be leaving the belt on the engine for a week and then removing and refitting it proved successful.

Refitting the belt pulley will give you a better idea of the crank position ( yes I know it's a pain )

I have also found the particular brand of belt supplied by our local MG specialist are easier to fit correctly. I think they stretch in to shape better.

Bobbyblue
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Re: Has my belt skipped a tooth?

Post by Bobbyblue » Mon Apr 24, 2023 8:34 am

Hello
Guys thanks for the replies and reassurances!
As I am waiting for a replacement water pump bolt (the shouldered one) I am going to follow the advice of leaving the belt in place for a few days to take a better shape then remove and refit…..I will post a follow up over next weekend
Thanks again
Cheers

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cbjroms
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Re: Has my belt skipped a tooth?

Post by cbjroms » Tue Apr 25, 2023 6:42 pm

Difficult to see from your photos. When I did it a few months ago it took a few attempts to get to a position where I was happy. Even with the cams locked in place, slackness in the belts makes it tricky to get 'right first time'.

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Reckless Rat
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Re: Has my belt skipped a tooth?

Post by Reckless Rat » Tue May 02, 2023 3:22 pm

Correct belt tension should enable you to rotate the belt 90° on its long run from the exhaust cam wheel to the crank.
With the cam locking tool in place it may be necessary to "ease" the crank pulley slightly to get the belt in place, but it should still be aligned with the casting mark between the two dots on the crank, as in this pic: (you can see a slight offset, but that's OK)

Image

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