I am currently appearing to get an airlock somewhere that is causing my low water alarm to go off with "alarming" regularity. As soon as I crack the cap on the expansion bottle the fluids all come flowing back and I dont have to add anything. Anybody got any ideas as to where to start looking or is a new expansion bottle cap likely to do the trick?
There doesnt appear to be contamination is either the water or the oil so I dont think it is anything to do with the old hgf problem.....
air lock somewhere maybe?
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Forum rules
Not many rules really, this board being aimed at technical issues, it shouldn't fall foul (hopefully) of some of the more personal issues that can affect forums.
Rule 1 - Is that you need to think very carefully before posting anything technical or asking anything technical relating to the security system of the car - See 'Security Issues' sticky for more info.
Rule 2 - We (MGF Register) do not support copyright infringement and therefore references to CD ROM, PDF versions or paper copies of the workshop manual (for instance) should not be posted on the forum. We don't want to get into trouble and we'd rather sell you a genuine hard copy through our Regalia shop anyway!
Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
Not many rules really, this board being aimed at technical issues, it shouldn't fall foul (hopefully) of some of the more personal issues that can affect forums.
Rule 1 - Is that you need to think very carefully before posting anything technical or asking anything technical relating to the security system of the car - See 'Security Issues' sticky for more info.
Rule 2 - We (MGF Register) do not support copyright infringement and therefore references to CD ROM, PDF versions or paper copies of the workshop manual (for instance) should not be posted on the forum. We don't want to get into trouble and we'd rather sell you a genuine hard copy through our Regalia shop anyway!
Because advice is honestly and freely given in this technical section, much of it will be amateur experienced based, so any information is given in good faith and is not guaranteed as correct.
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redbeard57
- Regional Rep
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air lock somewhere maybe?
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mgtfnut
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Re: air lock somewhere maybe?
Very difficult to tell from a far 
, but a big no-no is loosening the header tank cap when hot. This will most probably induce localised boiling and get more air into the system.
I find having the rear of the car higher than the front makes bleeding much easier and quicker. Check your jiggle valves (or not unless you want to drain again) to see if they are clear and operating properly.
Check your thermostat is opening properly by feeling the two front radiator hoses.
Good luck.
, but a big no-no is loosening the header tank cap when hot. This will most probably induce localised boiling and get more air into the system.I find having the rear of the car higher than the front makes bleeding much easier and quicker. Check your jiggle valves (or not unless you want to drain again) to see if they are clear and operating properly.
Check your thermostat is opening properly by feeling the two front radiator hoses.
Good luck.
Jerry
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
MG TF 135 - 100k
Suzuki SJ 413 - 309k
Skoda Yeti SE 110 4x4 - 131k
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plrobbo
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- Model of Car: 2004 MGTF 160 LE
- Location: Perth Western Australia
Re: air lock somewhere maybe?
I think 'mgtfnut' has the fix - bleed the system and bleed it again. It's amazing how long it takes. Are you bleeding from the 3 bleed points? It's quite like bleeding brake systems - never let the tank run dry of fluid, otherwise yuh gotta start again!
If you were to loosen the tank cap while hot (as mgtfnut said) it will also be very dangerous AND yes, the water will seem to come back into the tank 'seeming' it's full - the system is normal when the cap is removed when engine is hot and will do this - but are is induced into the system as well. It may also be, that once bleeding is completed (the point on the engine is the last to do and it's suprising how much air comes out of this point), preferably go for a short run. If the water alarm comes on, stop and check how much it's gone down, if only a little, 'hoot' it home - let the beast cool right down - top up if required and even add a little more (1/4" over the centre join) and try again. You'll find it will settle down and remain at the correct level.
The water level alarms are great devices and I think have saved many a car from being 'cooked'.
Cheers Robbo.
If you were to loosen the tank cap while hot (as mgtfnut said) it will also be very dangerous AND yes, the water will seem to come back into the tank 'seeming' it's full - the system is normal when the cap is removed when engine is hot and will do this - but are is induced into the system as well. It may also be, that once bleeding is completed (the point on the engine is the last to do and it's suprising how much air comes out of this point), preferably go for a short run. If the water alarm comes on, stop and check how much it's gone down, if only a little, 'hoot' it home - let the beast cool right down - top up if required and even add a little more (1/4" over the centre join) and try again. You'll find it will settle down and remain at the correct level.
The water level alarms are great devices and I think have saved many a car from being 'cooked'.
Cheers Robbo.
Eat your heart out! My car is a MGTF 160 Coupe LE - Monogram Black Olive - one of 30 in the world.
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David Clelland
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- Model of Car: 2001 MGF Steptronic
- Location: Kilsyth, Central Scotland
- Contact:
Re: air lock somewhere maybe?
Sometimes it helps to raise the rear of the car slightly when bleeding the nipple in the engine compartment.
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willyphixitt
- Posts: 527
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- Model of Car: 2006(reg) TF135
- Location: Jersey
Re: air lock somewhere maybe?
Hi Redbeard57,
Is your low coolant alarm by Andy Capy (LoLarm)? If so, then make absolutely sure that you have a good ground at the expansion bottle ground strap.
Although I had a good clean contact (bolt and thread)and used conductive grease it turned out that I was losing the solid ground contact. This caused the warning lamp to come on. Worse still it was intermittent for some time before becoming permanent. After contacting Andy to get advice on his product, I decided to delve further on the grounding issue. As the mounting bolt was very tight and I didn't feel I could tighten it up further without breaking the mounting flange of the expansion bottle, I initially did not suspect the problem was here
To cut a long story short, I had to replace the clamping bolt with a longer version(8mm thread). I fitted a washer, the ground eyelet, lockwasher and then nut, in that order. I followed this with a large washer to spead the load on the expansion bottle. With the eyelet clamped tight with the nut to the new bolt of the expansion bottle, I had an absolutely solid ground and my problem disappeared. You just have to partially tighten the nut but keep the ground eyelet moveable while you tighten the assy to the expansion bottle mounting flange. You can then give a final pinch without driving the eyelet into the expansion bottle as you tighten everything down.
With a bad ground you will get both leds illuminated even when the float is removed from the expansion bottle. No amount of adjustment with the trimpots on the circuit board will extinguish either of them.
HTH
willyphixitt
Is your low coolant alarm by Andy Capy (LoLarm)? If so, then make absolutely sure that you have a good ground at the expansion bottle ground strap.
Although I had a good clean contact (bolt and thread)and used conductive grease it turned out that I was losing the solid ground contact. This caused the warning lamp to come on. Worse still it was intermittent for some time before becoming permanent. After contacting Andy to get advice on his product, I decided to delve further on the grounding issue. As the mounting bolt was very tight and I didn't feel I could tighten it up further without breaking the mounting flange of the expansion bottle, I initially did not suspect the problem was here
To cut a long story short, I had to replace the clamping bolt with a longer version(8mm thread). I fitted a washer, the ground eyelet, lockwasher and then nut, in that order. I followed this with a large washer to spead the load on the expansion bottle. With the eyelet clamped tight with the nut to the new bolt of the expansion bottle, I had an absolutely solid ground and my problem disappeared. You just have to partially tighten the nut but keep the ground eyelet moveable while you tighten the assy to the expansion bottle mounting flange. You can then give a final pinch without driving the eyelet into the expansion bottle as you tighten everything down.
With a bad ground you will get both leds illuminated even when the float is removed from the expansion bottle. No amount of adjustment with the trimpots on the circuit board will extinguish either of them.
HTH
willyphixitt