TF Race Car Build

Post by **Rob Bell** » Tue Mar 29, 2016 5:53 pm

Why the change on the fuel return rail?

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Wed Mar 30, 2016 7:08 am

Rob Bell wrote:Why the change on the fuel return rail?

All the fuel pipes/fittings were for the Metro and the TF ones are different.

Post by **Rob Bell** » Wed Mar 30, 2016 9:40 am

Ah yes, sorry you had mentioned that before, but I'd forgotten!

Looks like you're making great progress

I picked up an arc welder last night. After a bit of practice, I plan to seam weld the TF sub frames and will probably mod them in a similar way to you (welded triangulation bars to replace the bolt-on longitudinal strengtheners in the front subframe)

Tipper · Post by **Tipper** » Wed Mar 30, 2016 10:18 am

Rob Bell wrote:Ah yes, sorry you had mentioned that before, but I'd forgotten!

Looks like you're making great progress

I picked up an arc welder last night. After a bit of practice, I plan to seam weld the TF sub frames and will probably mod them in a similar way to you (welded triangulation bars to replace the bolt-on longitudinal strengtheners in the front sub-frame)

Go carefully with the arc welder...you will find it more than a bit heavy handed for the tin on the sub-frames and impossible on bodywork!

A MIG welder would be better.

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Wed Mar 30, 2016 3:04 pm

Tipper wrote:
Rob Bell wrote:Ah yes, sorry you had mentioned that before, but I'd forgotten!

Looks like you're making great progress

I picked up an arc welder last night. After a bit of practice, I plan to seam weld the TF sub frames and will probably mod them in a similar way to you (welded triangulation bars to replace the bolt-on longitudinal strengtheners in the front sub-frame)
Go carefully with the arc welder...you will find it more than a bit heavy handed for the tin on the sub-frames and impossible on bodywork!

A MIG welder would be better.

Yup, MIG is what you want for welding any car bits - arc welding for 4mm plus steel really.

talkingcars · Post by **talkingcars** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:31 am

flyingbanana wrote: Yup, MIG is what you want for welding any car bits - arc welding for 4mm plus steel really.

I've been MIG welding 10mm steel on my college course.
I rebuilt a mini many years ago using arc.

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 7:42 am

I'm not saying a mig welder can't weld thick steel but arc welders can't weld thin steel - but welding 10mm steel with a mig means your using a commercial unit not a 'hobby (130/50)' welder.

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 7:05 pm

Well, they don't fit either and that is with 8mm of spacer

Post by **Rob Bell** » Fri Apr 01, 2016 11:25 am

Arc is good for thicker steel - and can weld thinner stuff if you use the correct rods and turn down the current - but I would agree that MIG is the choice for car body work.

Regarding the Hispec clearance - that's odd! Paul Nothard only had to use 2mm spacers. Have they changed their design since the millenium?

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Sat Apr 02, 2016 8:13 am

Rob Bell wrote:Arc is good for thicker steel - and can weld thinner stuff if you use the correct rods and turn down the current - but I would agree that MIG is the choice for car body work.

Regarding the Hispec clearance - that's odd! Paul Nothard only had to use 2mm spacers. Have they changed their design since the millenium?

Don't know but beginning to wish I had gone for the 6 pots as they aren't as thick. Now looking at getting some Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2's

talkingcars · Post by **talkingcars** » Sat Apr 02, 2016 9:22 am

flyingbanana wrote:I'm not saying a mig welder can't weld thick steel but arc welders can't weld thin steel - but welding 10mm steel with a mig means your using a commercial unit not a 'hobby (130/50)' welder.

I rebuilt a mini and put a new front on a VW bay window using ARC......

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Wed Apr 06, 2016 3:39 pm

Well, that's a set of Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 15x7 ordered in gloss black.

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Thu Apr 07, 2016 3:47 pm

Ordered brake lines and Clutch line from Master to Slave cylinder in Kawasaki green from HEL.

Post by **Rob Bell** » Fri Apr 08, 2016 3:54 pm

Do I get the impression you quite like Kawazaki green?

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Fri Apr 08, 2016 10:27 pm

Rob Bell wrote:Do I get the impression you quite like Kawazaki green?

Thought I would keep the theme going. The Metro was Pantone (Kawasaki) green, nicknamed Hot Snot.

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Fri Apr 08, 2016 10:40 pm

This afternoon I fitted the sump baffle, refitted the O/S hub/drive shaft and fitted the exhaust manifold.

And discovered a problem with my using the Metro engine mounts. The engine now sits 10mm lower and further back, causing this problem.

To fix this I'm going to shave the tube to clear the flexi and weld in a fillet of steel to fill the hole.

Post by **Rob Bell** » Mon Apr 11, 2016 11:23 am

Given that the alterned position of the engine will also add more angle upon the CV joints, and probably also puts the engine at an angle in the subframe (if the MGF gearbox mount is used?) would it not be better to modifiy the Metro engine mount position to suit the TF installation?

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Mon Apr 11, 2016 12:33 pm

Rob Bell wrote:Given that the alterned position of the engine will also add more angle upon the CV joints, and probably also puts the engine at an angle in the subframe (if the MGF gearbox mount is used?) would it not be better to modify the Metro engine mount position to suit the TF installation?

I modified the gearbox mount to align the engine 10mm lower/back. The first vvc conversion I did on a metro I did raise the engine mount arm 10mm and moved the engine mount mounting point 10mm forward. The drive shafts are fine.

Post by **Rob Bell** » Mon Apr 11, 2016 6:18 pm

Modified subframe it is then!

flyingbanana · Post by **flyingbanana** » Sat Apr 30, 2016 7:21 pm

So been a few weeks.
Welding fest today.

Subframe modified.

I've reinforced the tube with 10mm o/d 2mm thick tubing to add strength back, although the tube works under tension rather than compression.

Exhaust hangers welded onto the resonator to help keep the flexi clear.

Subrame mount repaired.

Gearbox steady brackets welded onto subframe.

Had to modify the engine mount arm again as the radius arm was fouling on it.

And finally welded in replacemet nut/plate after the bolt sheared when I removed it - sometime ago...

I am awaiting delivery of an m12-1/8th npt adapter so I can fit the oil temp sender and then the subframe/engine should be ready to go back in.

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