brake discs

[RobboMC]

The only old thread I could find about brakes and track days:

My first proper track day last month and I came home with a very noisy front end.
I have standard front discs that were replaced a few years back and have about 20,000 road miles on them.
I am using Redstuff Ceramic Brake Pads front and rear. The car has ABS.

The noise was a mild scraping sound was definitely coming from the turning brake rotor ( or perhaps I feared the wheel bearing )
I removed and wiped the pads and now after a few hundred miles the noise has gone. Also worth noting I only live 6 miles from that track
so no time for any debris to clear on the way home.

I am assuming the track day has created some high temperature debris on the ceramic pad that created the noise.
Has anyone else found this with the red stuff pads?

I was using the brakes damn hard, completing over 35 timed laps as well as 5-6 out laps and in laps, with 3 big brake stops
in each of the 1 min 15 sec laps. By the end of the day the rims were covered in brake dust, and both the car and driver
were happy to be going home.

I must say that even after a day of pounding the red stuff pads still felt great, and yes I do have a booster bracket fitted.
My Xmas project will be rear rotors, are there any bolt on upgrades??

[EllsoJo]

Just a tip from my experience of changing front discs: Geoff said:
I did have to take the hydraulic ram from my 10 Ton Press ,machine an adaptor to react against the hub rather than the stubshaft thru the bearing and make a puller from 20mm square steel bar and 10mm HT threaded bar to remove the discs. Do not use a lump hammer as for any force there is an equal and opposite force thru the bearing to make next weeks job.

When I changed my front discs, I bought and used a puller:

but this was not "man enough" to shift the disc initially (I took a picture AFTER all my struggle and eventual success, by putting the puller in-place on the new disc, so that I had a record)

The Key to success was lighting and placing 2 blowlamps, either side (Left and right) of the old disc. This rapidly warmed the old disc until it expanded off the hub. There was a sudden "POP", blowlamps off and the disc moved the rest of the way off the hub easily with the help of the puller.

Removing the plastic wheel-arch liner is (obviously) wise before blowlamp ignition, and I would not use this technique on the rear N/S, given the proximity of the fuel tank. I had a CO2 extinguisher to hand as well! Using only 1 blowlamp below would be a good way of melting and igniting all the grease in the hub, so again, not a good idea!

[Rob Bell]

I have no experience with RedStuff pads - but I currently use YellowStuff, which seems to work well, with no protests from the brakes.

RedStuff is a fast road pad and I don't think really intended for track use - so perhaps yes, that may the cause? If you're planning on more track action, then perhaps YellowStuff next time?

Regarding changing discs, I haven't had the problem of discs being stuck on the hub for a very long time. I leave a smear of copper grease on the hub to stop corrosion leading to the disc rotor "sticking" to the hub, which seems to work nicely.

[RobboMC]

In our car club Supersprint format we only do 10 minute runs,
and the circuits are pretty short and twisty,
so the speeds are low compared to some tracks;

the red stuff seem to be standing up to the punishment so far.

[talkingcars]

I have no experience with RedStuff pads - but I currently use YellowStuff, which seems to work well, with no protests from the brakes.......

I like the yellow stuff pads, the best balance between usable on the road and a bit of "givin' it some".

[Rob Bell]

You may find Yellow Stuff pads work better for the use you are putting your F to - but it doesn't sound like you need to swap over until you need fresh pads