air box removal tips ?

[danny072]

Hi everyone,

About to embark on removing the air box and fitting an induction kit.

Any tips or how to's on removing the air box would be much appreciated and I have heard this can be a bit of a nightmare

Thanks

Dan

[Plezier]

Hi everyone,

About to embark on removing the air box and fitting an induction kit.

Any tips or how to's on removing the air box would be much appreciated and I have heard this can be a bit of a nightmare

Thanks

Dan

If you have an MGF and are talking about the resonator box then my advice would have to be get someone else to do it as "Nightmare" is a bit of an understatement .

Now if you just mean the Air Filter box as you have a late MGF or a TF then that's not so bad in fact it's fairly easy just remember to leave the steel mounting bracket in place as it also holds and secures the fuel filter.

Now back to the nightmare resonator Box which is located in the N/ wheel arch/engine bay. MG/Rover made this out of almos indestructable polymer. If you do decide to attack it with cutting wheels the be aware than the little bits that fly off are partly molten and they will stick to flesh and burn like hell!............................................ Don't ask me how I know this

So wear eye protection !!!!!!

In fact I am seriously considering dropping the rear subframe to remove the one on the 75th when the time comes!

Also be aware theat removel of it opens up a large "hole" in the N/S/R wheel arch for muck etc to get intot eh engine bay and all over the gear box and starter motor.......................... so some consideration should be given to how to blank this off and reduce the amount on muck splattered about in there.

The reason that I need to remove the resonator is that I will be fitting a TF 160 filter set up and the bracket won't fit with the resonator in place ........................ have already tried that.

[danny072]

Oh no that's not what I wanted to hear, I have a 1998 vvc so am guessing I DO mean the resonator box but not after your post it looks like my induction plans will be shelved as I dont want to be cutting boxes about for hours on end and nor do I want a whacking great hole left to be blanked.

Looks like I will be listing an induction kit shortly !!

[Plezier]

This is the resonator bax and yes a 98 VVC will have one unless it's previously been removed:-





I drilled a line of holes then using a small cutting disc joined the holes up. Then it was the real hassle of cutting around the edges. In the end I removed it piece by piece. I was replacing brake lines:-



which run aound up out of sight and removing the box was the best way I could see to access them.



that is with just the lower part of the resonator removed ....................... note how it opens up access into the engine bay.

Now I was not really trying to put you off just trying to forwarn you that's it's not that easy a job to tackle. It is possible to get an intake hose around the front and past the resonator into the N/S vent. It's not that easy but it is possible.

[danny072]

No i appreciate it, i dont want to go to that extent will be happy with a stainless exhaust its just a weekender so the intake is not the end of the world for me to get done.

[RobboMC]

My suggestion if you want to remove it without the cutting is this method I used when removing my gearbox.
Unfortunately it's quite a bit of work.

There are some pictures here amongst the rest of the gearbox removal stuff.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=18855

Assumed rear shelf carpet and engine cover are removed.
Remove the air filter box and trunking.
Remove the resonator intake pipe ( first unclip and set aside the charcoal canister )
Remove the air filter bracket ( attack the small bolts LEFT HANDED while standing at the rear bumper.
Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder.
Remove the clutch cylinder bracket.
Support the gearbox from below.
Loosen the bolts on the gearbox bracket.
Remove the big vertical gearbox mounting bolt.
Now raise the gearbox as high as you can without crushing the resonator.
Loosen the bolts on the buttress and remove from vehicle if you can, it's not easy.
Remove small bolts on resonator from inside wheel arch.
Now remove the bolts holding the gearbox bracket and remove the bracket and resonator together.


You will find putting the car back together without the resonator is an awful, awful, awful, awful, awful lot easier but from
this thread I think you already get that. It took me 2 hours to refit the resonator/ bracket/buttress puzzle when I put my gearbox back in.

The alternative is to drop the sub frame out and then the resonator comes out really easily! HA ha ha.

[Steve White]

Its not necessary to remove the resonator box to fit an induction kit, just removing the airbox gives enough room and makes it easily reversible.
Removal of the top half of the air box is pretty obvious, it just unclips.
With the paper filter removed you will see 2 plastic pegs that need to be pushed out and a couple of bolts attaching the airbox to the bracket. That's it.
With the air box out, you will see plastic elbow that connected the airbox to the resonator, a bit of tugging will remove that to give more room.

[danny072]

Thanks for the info guys, from what you have all said looks like best option is to leave the resonator (i have beenbeaten by a plastic box..... pathetic!) but now Steve has given me a glimmer of hope that I can still fit and get that induction roar without removing it.

Is there room to bring a cold air feed up to the induction filter head ? To honest I am not fussed about losing BHP through heat soak as power gains are not the point but I am bothered if the heat soak leads to engine issues.

Thanks again for your posts and pics, only been on here a few days and everyone has been really helpful

Dan

[danny072]

Well I took a chance today and opened the MG engine bay up for the first time and following the info given by everyone on here had the air box out and the induction kit installed within and hour from breaking open my tool box

The resonator box is still in place as that really DOES look a nightmare to get out.

Clearly I will not get the full benefit of the induction kit with it being there but so far so good, sounds good and looks good.

The hardest bit was removing and replacing the sound deadening without ripping it and those 3 pesky bolts for the engine cover under the T bar but its awkward more than hard.

So for anyone stumbling upon this post, if your agonising over installing an induction kit on an MGF then I say GO FOR IT.

Thanks so much to everyone on here for your help and tips, it has given me the confidence to have a go and its paid off.

[Rob Bell]

Leave the resonator in place: it forms part of the inner wheel arch

The air filter box is easily removed: http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/air_fi ... itting.htm

You can still fit cold air induction with the resonator in place - so unless you are looking to save the last few grammes in weight, it isn't worth the effort to remove and then have to find something else to fill the gap left in the wheel arch!

[Plezier]

Glad to see you have got your induction kit fitted.

[danny072]

Thanks, and thanks for the steer on the resonator box, I know its going to have to go but at least I knew enough not to try and go at it half cocked, it will keep till I can get to it properly and get it out.

You saved me a lot of time bruised knuckles and swearing !