Project Kima

[Kima]

Welcome to the Project Kima.

The receiver:

• MGF VVC 1999 Right Hand Drive
• 034298 miles
• LQW Anthracite with beige interior
• One previous owner

The donor:

• MGF 1.8i 1997 LEFT Hand Drive
• over 270.000 kms on the clock
• HAM British Racing Green
• At least one bad previous owner
• The front right wheel has moved backwards but the ABS module and radiator did not get touched.
• Everything else is fine: https://youtu.be/yhFAqkrQ2uA

To do list:

• RHD to LHD swap
• TF steering rack
• Remote thermostat mod
• MLS Headgasket
• Better gear change mechanism
• 3D scan the existing air scoops, design in CAD and 3D print air scoop molds to make proper air scoop out of glass fiber
• Improved brake and clutch feel
• Exhaust and intake (ECU?)
• Improve torsional rigidity
• Improve pedal positions to be able to drive with racing shoes and not in socks

I know the "receiver" car since 2003. The owner is a very good friend of the family. She let me drove it when I turned 19 for a quick test drive. My car at that time was a rotten Peugeot 309 1.6l and that MGF gave me a smile like no other for a whole week.

[talkingcars]

This should be an interesting project, I look foward to updates.

James

[MrNatural]

Me too

[mg-rob]

Looking forward to seeing your project evolve

[Rob Bell]

Great project! Swapping from RHD to LHD will actually be pretty simple. These cars are designed to accept either with no bodywork modification - as I am sure you've already worked out Getting the dash out will require the removal of the whole interior (you will need the footwell carpets!), but apart from the volume of screws and fasteners you'll need to remove, it will prove to be a straightforward job

You may already have seen my projects on here (and on http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com) - you're objectives are generally in line with mine!

The gearshift can be improved - either by modifying the existing set up or using the kit supplied by Mike Satur. I have done both. I can recommend both approaches too. The MS kit will give a nicely mechanical shift when installed and set up well. I've also removed the rubber mountings for the gear shift lever, which gives it a more positive feel IMO.

Torsional rigidity can be improved with the TF bracing kit. Vehicle Handling Supplies do this if you can't get the TF parts. Easy to fit now before re-installing the dashboard - although you'll need to weld in a couple of brackets.

Pedal spacing will be a challenge. The MGF pedals were lifted direct from the Rover Metro for cost saving. Working out an alternative will be a challenge but potentially rewarding - and hopefully not wallet-busting!

Do you have a budget for this? Good luck!

[Kima]

you will need the footwell carpets!

I might have messed that one up. Those where one of the first things I tossed away. They were rubbish.

http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com

I have carefully read your website and wouldn't have went into that project without your website. Beers on me if we meet one day.

Do you have a budget for this?

No, but if I buy something and it still have consequences months later. It means I couldn't afford it.

Now some updates:
The receiver has been cleaned and polished before being parked for good for the winter.


I've removed everything I needed from the LHD donor. I'll need new carpets apparently

The disassembly was a bit rough but now I know how to do it properly on the good one.

Yesterday was blackfriday and I spent the whole evening eating up my original budget.

Mike Satur:
Exhaust Manifold 4-2-1
Exhaust Sports Cat Mk 2
Exhaust Daytona Backbox
Exhaust Round Tailpipes
Exhaust Heat Shield
Exhaust Fitting Kit Deluxe
Slick Shift Kit
TF Left Hand Drive Steering Rack
Radiator Duct Kit
Heater Pipe Connectors
Oil Filler Bracket and Screws
Brake Servo Reinforcement Bracket
Subframe Crash Bars

Rimmerbros:
All the workshop manuals
Hydragas Pump
K&N 57i Series Induction Kit
Throttle Body 52mm
Coolant Pipe Stainless Steel
Strengthened Oil Rail Set EU4 type (including MLS gasket)
4x Mudflaps
Rear Lamp Access Cover

MGMania:
Clutch Slave Cylinder Support Bracket

I'm in talks with VHS for the torsion kit and a pair of lower A arms to get some caster out of the suspension.

The only thing I haven't bought yet is the remote thermostat since most of the links and brands I saw are not available anymore. Could someone recommend me T shaped thermostat housing that I could use close to the radiator?

[mgtfnut]

The only thing I haven't bought yet is the remote thermostat since most of the links and brands I saw are not available anymore. Could someone recommend me T shaped thermostat housing that I could use close to the radiator?

If it's any help, I moved the thermostat to under the washer bottle back in 2006 using standard MG-R T pieces and Y pieces and the OEM PRT thermostat

I also re-routed the heater flow pipework and installed a post engine shut down cylinder head re-circ pump to run for 18 minutes. Also replaced the dash clock with a coolant gauge working on the return pipe to the water pump to observe the temperature gradient of coolant going out of the head and coming back in - sensor is visible with single red wire.

[Kima]

Thank you very much @mgtfnut for the help!

I now have all the parts for the transformation. A few parts (LHD clutch line) are still on the donor car but everything else is ready.

To avoid any unnecessary steps, I have gathered all the parts I will be working on and generated a graph with all the dependencies. In order to make it easier on the eye, I assumed that all the primary parts (those who can be removed without having to remove something else beforehand) are already OFF the car and will be assembled back ON at the end.

Those primary parts are:

• seats
• steering wheel
• soft top
• engine cover
• engine access grill
• RHD front boot cover
• hood
• front bumper

The exhaust isn't on this graph since it isn't linked to anything major.

Click here for a higher resolution: https://i.imgur.com/OX0e3nb.png

I should be able to go thru the project without making any mistakes. Took me an afternoon to generate that graph. But at least I now know where to start and end my project. I used the online version of Graphviz to do that https://dreampuf.github.io/GraphvizOnline/

[talkingcars]

I too like to plan before I start a project. However I almost always ignore my planning and do it a different way.

[Rob Bell]

I too like to plan before I start a project. However I almost always ignore my planning and do it a different way.

Yup, I recognise this - a battle plan rarely survives first contact with the enemy!

[Kima]

Lesson learned. Plans do not work. Well, I was scared to attack that project without a plan. Had to do one for my piece of mind.

But I did a few things in the last couple of weeks: https://youtu.be/zu77clEdOTI



First things first, I need a good low profile car jack. This one failed on me. Luckily the car had still the wheels on.

Who thought it was a good idea to use the inlet manifold flange as a sort of water blocking thingy. I undid the manifold so slowly that a lot of water went into the cylinders. Had to crank the engine without spark plugs to get rid of the coolant.

The whole inlet system is so twisty, no wonders you get 18hp just from an air filter.

I realized that I do not have a 2nd airbag for the passenger and nobody wants to ship me that kind of explosives. I'll have to find one locally.

Regarding the wiring, I will keep my RHD VVC wiring harness since the donor ones is much older and nastier. I will only extend the wires that go from the fuse box and steering column to the ride side of the car (hood and right door). For everything else, I will just fold the wiring at the middle point.
Instead of extending but cutting and then soldering an extension buy doing 2 solders, I will try to source from the donor wiring the required cable and pin in order to be able to extend with only 1 solder per extension.

I will not change the carpet to a LHD one. I will cut a hole in the left side and add an extra carpet to block the right side hole.

[Rob Bell]

Nice garage! Envious. I still have to work outside on mine

Yes, sending airbags by post will cause problems I suspect. Pick one up if you're in the UK?

[talkingcars]

Nice garage! Envious. I still have to work outside on mine

You and me both, my drive way is so big I can just get the F in if I park at 90'.

[Rob Bell]

Yes - that sounds very similar to me! But on better news, I now have a pretty decent size workshop in the back garden

[talkingcars]

Yes - that sounds very similar to me! But on better news, I now have a pretty decent size workshop in the back garden

I have built myself a 16'x8' shed with a work bench and loads of shelf space but it is the end of the back garden and the only access is through the house so not ideal.

[Rob Bell]

Yes, much the same James. Plus no fun going out to it in the rain and wind! But better than nothing!

[talkingcars]

I got myself a cheap fan heater that warms up my space in no time at all
and a pair of 6ft fluorescent tubes so there is plenty of light
and 2 double 13amp sockets with another outside so power isn't a problem
(plus I am just about to fit a dedicated socket for charging my ebike)
and it's all covered by a small alarm and a pair of CCTV cameras linked to the system on the house,

It's just in the wrong place.

[Kima]

I worked 2 weeks on the wiring, unpinning every single connector in order to reroute the whole harness more easily and left the car sitting for 4 weeks...

Today I went back to it and plugged everything back for a first test : https://youtu.be/aknbyeeiP3Y

I was able to crank the engine meaning that the anti theft thing is still fine as well as most of the wiring. I didn't tried to run the engine since the intake is off the car.

Seeing that I am slower than expected, I will reduce the work and only do the following jobs:
- LHD conversion
- full mike satur exhaust
- KN intake
- shifter
- 1/3 of the torsion kit (the one behind the dashboard)
- USB port on top of dashboard for the GPS, USB port behind mirror for dashcam

the rest will be done after the summer.

I admire this car. I think that this car has been designed by proper car enthusiasts that were on a tight budget within a limited time frame.

[Rob Bell]

I admire this car. I think that this car has been designed by proper car enthusiasts that were on a tight budget within a limited time frame.

100% agree. You really appreciate how cleverly the MG was designed and built when you take one fully apart and recognise the clever industrial design that makes building LHD and RHD versions with the minimum number of different parts. And then, when you get to the engine bay, you then realise how relatively easy most things are to get at in situ (considering its midengine design). Compared to the majority of current 2010/2020 vehicles, the MG is a delight to work on IMO

[Kima]

The weather is getting nice and the car still does not drive... At least I can work under the sun My intake is disassembled and fuel kept pouring while I was working outside in direct sunlight. The heat from the sun increased the pressure inside the tank and forced the fuel out...



I've seen pictures online of how owners take their engines out of the MGF. Some even did it on parking lots. Way outside of my comfort zone. SO I bought this tilting lift and tried it out as soon as it arrived. You are supposed to lift the car by the center of gravity which is a bit further back that on this picture. This isn't even fuel height. When I will be doing the engine removal, I'll first undo the rear sub-frame from the chassis. The weight of the sub frame won't be on the car anymore and the COG will be pushed forward meaning that I should be able to easily clear the engine once the car is lifted and the sub frame on a sort of skateboard. I'll record the whole process.



While cutting the floor mat to make space for the pedals I noticed some rust colored points... Knowing the previous owner, rain must have leaked into the left legroom and the car was parked for an extended period of time afterwards since it was a holiday car.



I went with the grinder and it's manageable. My only concern is the rust in the closed location under the seat... A friend of mine who owns a rustbucket also called MX5 NA will help me on that.



I was amazed when I found out that I could reuse my brake and clutch brackets as well as the closing plate on top... I nearly didn't needed to buy another MG.. (more about it later). Just why did the donor (1997) not have return spring on the pedals compared to mine (1999)?



The donor dashboard was a bit dirty and I decided to take as much as possible from the good one, including the bowl that goes over the cluster since but I had to undo the clue holding the venting channels to reach those 3 screws... I can't be furious because it is the first very bad design choice I've encountered since the beginning.



Ok, how to say it without cursing.. This bowl, for which I had to do all of it, isn't identical between LHD and RHD, but symmetrical. The donor didn't had one and I thought that I didn't needed one since my is in a good shape. I looked online and this part is apparently prone to breaking and isn't sold individually. I guess it's because of those bloody screws. I talked about it at work and the new guy knows a guy that merged 2 crashed MGF's into a good one. So next Saturday I'll spend my day at a strangers home removing his dashboard and not only the bowl since the donor is a bit green from moisture.

So yeah, it's moving forward, slowly