Replacing plastic rear screen

[seasider]

I'd like to replace the plastic rear screen on my 2001 MGF which has seen better days. Ideally I'd prefer a glass screen for improved visibility. I was wondering where's the best place to get one and crucially how easy are they are to fit? I'd prefer to do it myself if it's fairly straightforward. I have a windbreak fitted. Thanks in advance for any advice.

[nigelandjo]

Best way is to replace the entire soft top. Quite easy to do if you have a rivet gun ~ takes most of a day to do. Try Martin Smith as he had a stock.

[Steve55]

Hi - I can only speak for the MGTF, but it is a pretty easy process. My car had existing wiring and switch for a HRW.
I used a BAS glass in mine. Essentially the top and sides unzipped and the bottom rail is held in by around 20 pop rivets. These need to be drilled out carefully and with the right sized drill bit as the new rivets go in the same holes. I replaced the rear foam edging whilst I was at it as mine was pretty perished.
The process is just reversed with the new glass. Pop rivet the bottom rail (black headed rivets came with the glass kit) and zip around the sides and top. Then properly position the Velcro strips down each side. Plug the connector to the existing wiring (passenger side of rear parcel shelf) and off you go!
I was very pleased with it (I also have a wind deflector), although as the surrounding cloth is new, it took a little using and stretching in order for the glass to fold flat.

[Steve55]

PS my hood was in good condition so I chose the cheaper and easier option to replace glass section.

[seasider]

Thanks Nigel and Steve. As my hood is in good condition I intend to replace just the glass section. The BAS one looks fine to me so I'll get that one. Thanks for the useful guide on how to do it Steve. I'll need to get myself a rivet gun first.

[Reckless Rat]

Talk to Peter at MGFMania. He can either replace the perspex one or sell you a glass screen that will replace it.

[Steve55]

Love your new occupation Reckless!

[seasider]

Is the MGFMania one better then Reckless?

[seasider]

I've ordered the BAS one, fingers crossed all will fine.

[Reckless Rat]

Love your new occupation Reckless!

You have no idea how busy I have been this weekend. I need a rest.

[Rob Bell]

Plastic with plastic screen is DIY-able - see http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/DIY/ex ... /index.htm - from experience, I would probably opt with an OEM type rear screen rather than a cheaper alternative.

The glass rear screen is likely to be very similar to the plastic version, although I have not done this myself (I can't use one because I have the Mk1 X-Power roll hoops on my car that take the room that the glass screen folds down into).

[Geoff.F]

I had decided to replace the rear screen as it was discoloured and I could not see through it. I found some cleaner and on the basis that it could not make it worse, I tried it. It came up as good as new. Unfortunately It was a small pot which is somewhere in our full double garage.
The hood is off the car for the summer giving the option of the hardtop or full tonneau.
Whilst the cars are wired for a glass rear window (for a hardtop) I recollect a switch and relay are required.

[Rob Bell]

That's true Geoff. Many polishes can do this - with good results from paint polishes from Mer and Autoglym for example.

The register used to sell Greygate polish, which works well (I bought some years ago, and still have it). Other products are also available on market places like fleabay (search plastic window polish) - a Renovo product popped up when I looked just now - not tried that one, but probably works just as well as anything else.

Of course, none of this is terribly helpful if the scratching is very severe, or if the screen itself is cracked, which sadly they are prone to do as they age and become damaged under UV light exposure.

[Rob Bell]

>>Whilst the cars are wired for a glass rear window (for a hardtop) I recollect a switch and relay are required.

Also true Retrofitting of the switch and relay is easy. For those of us with plastic rear windows, you could install a small electric hot air demister (I've previously used a pair of these on this circuit without problems - you just need to be wary of current draw and ensure that you're below the design limitations of the circuit)

[Geoff.F]

Correct Rob. Right on the top in the garage I find my 100 ml of Greygate.

[Geoff.F]

Correct Rob. Right on the top in the garage I find my 100 ml of Greygate.

Search Greygate. 100 ml less than £10

[Deepfat]

MG Mania have a video on You Tube on putting in a rear glass HRW which I found very useful, you mentioned you have a wind stop, high or low? I have read they can sometimes connect with the glass with expensive results, I carefully checked the clearance before gaily throwing the hood back. Re wiring/relay etc, as far as I'm aware if you have a working HRW in your hard top it's just plug and play, only cars originally supplied new without a hardtop specified did not have the switch & relay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNu0hILC8UE

[seasider]

Just a quick update, a BAS glass rear screen was fitted today by a specialist trimming company in Poole, Dorset. They did a very good job and it looks great. The new screen is very tight as expected but should ease in time. The fitter advised that I would need to unzip the screen when lowering the hood.

Extract from the BAS website:

BAS have developed a glass rear window upgrade for the MGF/TF that zips straight into the existing hood. No unzipping is required to lower the hood; the glass is encapsulated into the material using the original patented rim system.

Can someone who has fitted a BAS screen into their F/TF clarify whether or not the screen needs to be unzipped before being lowered. Thanks.

[mgtfnut]

Yes and no!

No harm either way, but I unzip the screen and let it lie on the "parcel shelf" for long journeys as the the whole lot does lie a little lower overall.
If you have it up and down several times a day it makes sense to keep it zipped up - I'm sure you'll find a way for you

[seasider]

Thanks for that Jerry, very useful.