Very confusing problem! stalling issue :(

[Bradley7779]

Good Afternoon all!

I really hope someone can shed some light on a problem that I am struggling with? To cut a long story short I bought my very first MGF recently so was a little unaware of what exactly to look for. Stupidly I ignored most of the comments about not buying one as I always wanted one so when a lovely 1997 MGF 1.8i with a TF facelift came up for sale I drove 147 miles to have a look and bought the car after a 10 minute test drive.
However, I got 10 miles away and the car overheated and I pulled over immediately after I saw steam coming out of the engine bay on the coolant filler side. Had to pay £317.00 + VAT to the AA that had to tow the car home. Replaced coolant pipes with some new stainless steel ones and re filled coolant levels etc, gave it an oil change. Off we go I thought ... oh how I was wrong... Although the over heating problem stopped I then found out every morning on the way to work and every evening on the way home, the car will stall twice and then run fine? it will not fire up straight away either so slightly embarrasing when at the lights or the island! So, then I changed the HT leads, Distributor cap, spark plugs and rotary arm! aha! I thought that will sort it! no, no it didnt at all. Still stalls twice morning and evening?? Im not mechanically minded so I have only done what I could in my limited knowledge so If anyone has any ideas at all I would be hugely greatful!!

I have scoured the internet and found that this seems like a common problem but no solutions I havent already tried

PLEASE HELP!!

Bradley.

[Rob Bell]

Hi Bradley,

welcome to the forum - sorry to hear of the problems you've already encountered with your new car - hope you're not falling out of love with it yet?

The stalling problem is a bit odd. I can suggest a list of problems but before doing that, can you describe what causes the car to stall - and when you say the car stalls twice, is this in rapid succession, or some time apart? Is the car usually easy to start from cold?

I also see you've replaced the distributor parts - what have you used? I would strongly recommend using MG Rover or Land Rover genuine parts because the new items on ebay at the moment are worse than useless...

[Bradley7779]

Hi Rob!

Thanks for getting back to me! Nooo definitely not falling out of love with my new problem project! ha ha! I have only used Bosch parts so far. Ok, so I start the car in the morning that now turns over quite quickly and normal so I guess the leads, HT, Rotary, Dizzy etc have helped but I get to the end of my road whilst changing down gear, the revs just drop and cuts out.. takes about 10 secs to fire up again then its ok until the next set of lights about a minute up the road, again change down, and bumph dead again, restarts after about 10 seconds but then fine all the way to work and doesnt cut out at all? dips a little in the revs but seems to notice and picks up again to stop stalling then settles again.. this repeats again at 5pm every evening on the way home?

Only other thing I noticed is the fan/alternator belt squeals like mad for about 30 secs on start up but then stops? tried belt slip and no good so got a new belt so next on my list but would this cause this problem? usually smells like its running quite rich too?

Hmm it's a puzzler that i'm not giving up on! lol

Bradley!

[RobboMC]

I'm no expert but my next step would be to find all of the engine sensor plugs and unplug and replug them once or twice.
This sounds to me like perhaps a sensor is losing it's signal and so the computer is saying " Nnnooo" and switching the ignition off.

I'd start with the plugs on the inlet manifold, for the injection and manifold pressure, and the plugs to the coil pack ( which is a bugger to get at )

If none of that works then perhaps it's a trip to someone that can read the computer error codes.

[Rob Bell]

Okay, my two suggestions would be crank position sensor and idle air control sensor.

Crank position sensor is crucial for MEMS (Modular Engine Management System) to work out the engine position and run management accordingly - and it is possible that this is providing an intermittent fault - but given that for the rest of the time the engine is working perfectly well probably argues against that.

The other option in my mind is the idle air control valve. This has a number of roles, one of which is suggested by its name - control of idle speed. I functions a bit like the choke cable on a car from the 1970s. It has other functions too - particularly control of engine speed as you snap the throttle shut. If it is sticking (and they can do this), then the IACV may be closed which permits the engine rpm to die - and make it difficult to restart.
IACVs are readily removed and can be cleaned up (carb cleaner or petrol is good at removing gungy oil deposits).

The other thought is similar to Rob's - an inlet manifold leak - but again, for the rest of the time the engine seems to be running fine?

[Bradley7779]

Hi Rob!
Ok! brilliant! I will have a little look tonight. I'm popping on a new K&N this evening so i'll have a lil gander at the connections. Failing this I found a diagnostics place down the road from me called TrustTune .. might give em a visit!

Oh and last night my clutch started slipping bad! ugghhh!

Clutch slave master cylinder or new clutch? if its all got to come out anyway I guess its all got to be done??

This car has cost me a bloody fortune already

[Rob Bell]

Sounds like the clutch doesn't it? But if the clutch release arm is partially seizing, you may wish to replace it (ones with lubricating points are now available) before the slave cylinder starts to fail.

A diagnostic session may help?

[Bradley7779]

Cheers Rob! so if the clutch arm needs replacing is that a major haul out job? i'm not very mechanically minded! lol just learning now ha ha! Yep ive seen those clutch arms on mike saturs website.. hmm might try that first.. yep I think diagnostic check on saturday!!

Thanks for your advice Rob! really appreciate it!

Bradders.

[Rob Bell]

If the gearbox is out to replace the clutch, then replacing the release lever can be done at the same time very easily.

[Bradley7779]

Thanks for the tips guys! so with the IACV, what exactly do i need to clean? sorry for being a dumbass but as I mentioned, this is my first new go at tinkering lol

Really appreciate your help lads!

Bradders.

[Rob Bell]

The IACV has a piston inside it that slides, controlling air flow. It can get sooty/ oily which can cause the IACV to stick. Also check that the hoses are clear and not gummed up with gunk. Should be nice and straightforward

[Bradley7779]

Ok cool! cheers Rob! will have a look later, is the IACV easy to open up? or do I just clean it externally?

Cheers!!

Bradders.

[Rob Bell]

Shouldn't be necessary to disassemble it IMO - just make sure that the piston slides easily. Also look to see whether the supply hoses are all clear and open

[Bradley7779]

Cheers Rob! I will give this a look over on saturday. I found a new one for sale for £15, is it worth just getting a new one instead do you think?

[Rob Bell]

Have a look at the you have - we can't be 100% sure we've identified the problem yet

[Bradley7779]

Hi Rob,

The guy offered me a brand new one for £8.00 so I bought it just incase thought it might be worth grabbing at that price! oh I have a question about fitting a cone filter if you get chance to have a peek? I think its a 45 degree pipe I need but im not sure? lol I also dont know what diameter I need! I'm at work at the min and can't go mooching in the back of the car

Really appreciate all your advice! Your a star!

Bradley.

[Rob Bell]

8 quid is cheap! Definitely worth having, even if that means you now have a spare!

A 45 degree bend is fine; the one supplied with the K&N 57i induction kit is something more like 15 degrees I think, but you could also use a straight pipe

[Bradley7779]

Cheers for your reply Rob! Excellent I kind of assumed it wasn't going to be as simple as I first thought ha ha! Ok cool, I will try and find a 15 degree pipe methinks

Thanks for your help bud!

Bradley.

[Bradley7779]

Uh oh! took off the IACV and went to replace with the new one and it's not the right part number! connector block connection are different? four pins in a row and not in a square .. Gave my original one a damn good clean ( was absolutely caked in crap ) and put back on. Car still sounds lumpy on idle so try a few little things.. removed the IACV connector whilst the engine was running and nothing happened at all? just idled exactly the same? should it do this or is that a sign that the IACV is buggered? A neighbour who is a truck mechanic said it doesn't sound like the engine is breathing properly for some reason? also it still will not fire up first time even tho its had new leads, rotary arm, dizzy cap and plugs!

New cone air filter and piping etc coming monday along with a new fuel filter.. after that I'm out of ideas

Bradley.

[Rob Bell]

Yes, unfortunately MEMS3 uses a different IACV to earlier cars using MEMS1.9 or MEMS2J...

Did you check all the breather pipes Bradley? If the IACV was gummed up, chances are the breather pipes are too?