Wheel nut torque

Fraser · Post by **Fraser** » Tue May 31, 2016 12:09 pm

For the first time since I have owned the car, I took a wheel off for inspection, as I had gone over a bad pothole. When I looked at the workshop manual I have, it tells me the wheelnut torque is 70 Nm. Converting this to foot pounds so I can use my ancient torque wrench shows it to be 52 foot pounds. This seems to me to be a little low for wheel nuts !!

Anyone care to comment ?

Helsbyman · Post by **Helsbyman** » Tue May 31, 2016 12:42 pm

Well if you have the oem nuts [chrome plated plasticine ] 70 is good but they did change it to 90 in 2004 I believe

Fraser · Post by **Fraser** » Tue May 31, 2016 2:08 pm

90 seems more like it, being just over 66 ft-lbs. I finally found the torque value buried in my Handbook, and that says 70 Nm ! Car is a 2009.

My 2003 Jaguar XJ figure is 125 Nm for the five stud wheels.

Debs · Post by **Debs** » Sun Jun 05, 2016 5:52 pm

70Nm is fine

RobboMC · Post by **RobboMC** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 3:38 am

70 Nm is the number. I carry the 3/8" drive torque wrench in the boot instead of a wheel brace.

When I got the wheels balanced at the tyre shop they were adamant 70 Nm was too low for any wheel nuts. I was prepared with my workshop manual and then they still didn't want to believe it. In the end I did the nuts up myself.

Keep tyre jockeys away from your wheel nuts, they are gorillas that damage fragile things like the F. Also if car is a recent purchase release all the wheel nuts and retighten to the correct torque.
That way if one is over tightened and breaks when you remove it you can deal with the fallout in your own time,
not by the road side when you are changing a flat.

Post by **Rob Bell** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 10:27 am

I use 70Nm, and I too use a torque wrench. As the cars are used in competition, I tend to check them very regularly!

Kasper · Post by **Kasper** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 12:12 pm

Thinking about the why and How's of bolting a wheel to a hub, it is clear that in principle you do not have to use much power to use tightening the wheels. Only a bit of pre tensioning to prevent from getting loose again. The MGF has an additional problem that is to find in the original nuts. These are plated as said before, using too much force will damage them leaving you in problems releasing the nuts.

And all will know releasing the nuts is usually at the side of the road, with no quality tools at hand.
So buy a set of proper nuts that fit and you are able to use a bit of extra force, have peace of mind that you will not be the victim of the gorillas at the tyre centre.

Helsbyman · Post by **Helsbyman** » Mon Jun 20, 2016 1:47 pm

All most sure mine are 60 Ft/lb. Sure it says 60 Ft/Lb in hand book [TF]

Post by **Mykel** » Mon Jun 20, 2016 3:59 pm

70 Nm is absolutely fine on the 15" wheels, never lost one. 100 Nm are the later recommendation for the 16" ones. On the TF, I run 17" Team Dynamics, the directions they come with say 90 Nm. Never lost one of those either.

Post by **ErikB** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:31 pm

90Nm and applying some grease.

Debs · Post by **Debs** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 12:14 am

Fasteners are held in place by stretch in the fastener which locks the threads together.

In an ideal world you would be able to measure the elongation of the fastener (indeed this is what I do with the big end bolts on my Race Engines).

However many fasteners (including wheel studs / nuts) are 'blind' - that is to say that you can not measure the elongation.

In this case we use torque as an indicator of fastener stretch (and note one should check as to whether the torque figures are for a dry or lubricated fastener).

Given, therefore, that the torque figure recommended is based upon fastener stretch, then over torquing the fastener will not lead to a greater clamping force, but merely place the fastener at risk of going outside its elastic limit. Given that the torque figure develops a given fastener stretch, then this figure will be based upon the stud size and material it (and the nut) are made of.

Therefore, given what I have said about torque, it will make no difference to the fastener clamping load whether you are using a 15", 16" or 17" wheel for a given stud / nut combination.

mgtfnut · Post by **mgtfnut** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 7:43 am

Helsbyman wrote:Well if you have the oem nuts [chrome plated plasticine ] 70 is good but they did change it to 90 in 2004 I believe

Despite many rumours over the years, the nuts are not chrome plated plasticine

Although not wonderful, they have a pressed stainless thin cover which gives an impression of a bit of bling.
I imagine all the woes over the years about the covers coming loose etc, are because 12 point sockets are used instead of 6 point sockets. Also commercial tyre changing outfits can be a bit brutal!
My nuts

have survived intact over the last 14 years although they are really cheap and nasty - but as they still function as intended it's not worth getting excited

I'm with Debs on this one - tighter is not always good.

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