The MGF Register Forums

Hi. Can anyone please identify what is missing from the following pictures. I need to I.d. The hose, which look s like it’s had a repair carried out at some point. Im talking about where the hose has clearly been cut and had a stopper put in it. As this is an N series engine I don’t want it to run hotter than it’s supposed to by some make shift repair that I’ve just found. My old TF may have had a different layout coolant wise but any help would be appreciated. Cheers. Garry

I don't know if it helps, but have a look at the thread below with, I think, a parts diagram from MGOC website showing some more "modern" TF cooling pipework arrangements

https://www.mgfregister.org/forum/viewt ... =8&t=25450

ps, that looks like some awful bodge using a bolt to blank off a hose. Can you see the other end - what happens there?

Further ps, MGOC spares shows a 4 leg adaptor, not three - apologies.
Until you can find the other end of the chopped off hose, which might be near the thermostat housing, I'd be concerned about flow back to the thermostat/ pump inlet.
I'd also be concerned about leakage of using a bolt as a hose stop. Probably ok short term?

Just had a look at my 85th, but can't see past the air filter from the boot. I don't recall seeing a bolt/jubilee clip combo like this when I've had the engine cover off. Will look through my photos later just in case I've taken pictures of the engine for any reason in the past.

Yep I've been outside for a quick peak, too, but gotta be a cover-off job...
I have to say I'd remember seeing something like that in my previous visits. I'm intrigued.

Thanks for that. No it’s definitely not right. I’ve hauled through old photos of my 2005 TF, but didn’t photo that section in particular even when I replaced the head gasket! I must admit going through the exploded diagrams on the net doesn’t really help much as they are so exploded you aren’t shown which hose goes to each other, if you know what I mean. Service by direct comparison would be useful in this situation I think. I’ll keep researching, thanks again. Garry.

I think I might have an incline what’s happened. There is an LE500 part number, thank you for the above reference, PER000150, which is a 3 way connector which may be used on the later Tfs etc. But I have a 4 way fitted with one port blocked off. If in the past, the 3 way failed and they were unable to acquire a replacement 3 way, perhaps they used the 4 way as a stop gap until getting a new item? I’m still unable to confirm if the later SAIC TFs had a different layout cooling wise without any proper drawings or comparisons. MAYBE...

Hi F3eng1911. Any of these pics help while I've got the top off? Mine's a 'Chinese TF too...

MG Rover PER000150 CONNECTOR-3 WAY
MG Rover SKU: PER000150
Availability: Available. Ships in 1-2 working days.
£11.98
https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/

This is the one you want, for N series engines.

Cheers, Mark

Thank you so much for the above help, they were great photos ArntyR, thank you. I have managed to get a new 3 way connector and is fitted. I think that my suspicion about a repair was correct as outlined above. I managed to get hold of Roger Parker who was helpful with photos as well. Why the cooling system was changed between 2005, my last TF and the laterN series, I don’t know but there must be a reason. Thank you for taking the time to get photos and research for me, much appreciated.

Interesting, good lot of views, thanks - looks like the N series rationalised the flow path from the previous confusing and to my mind illogical flow distribution. Possibly from the pics, no big jiggle valve and any stray air is swept into the header tank.
Back in 2006 when I moved the PRT under the washer bottle, I rearranged the flow distribution/piping as well. It seems to have survived the years, self bleeds very quickly (tested by the usual three bleed point after running). I kept the jiggle valve, but took it apart and made sure the s/s ball was contained in a vertical plane and worked properly. Although poorly designed/made it does serve a purpose, in theory very little or no coolant should run up the narrow bore tubing into the header tank - only any air trapped in the valve body (bit like a central heating bleed valve).
Bet you're glad it's sorted.

Back to rude health then; good news. Good to have feedback too.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread again but I'm now the victim of a broken 'three-way (heater) tee connector'


The pic shows a clean break across the thin plastic part and water's seeping out, puddling below the car. - Looks like a bit of a weak spot; another of SAIC's improvements*

Specifically using this great thread and really useful prompt input by markvrs, I've managed to track down and order this elusive PER000150 part from MGFnTFBITZ and find out that actually it's a 4-way part for MGR TFs and a *3-way part for SAIC TFs (which must have caused F3eng1911's original confusion) Most suppliers seem to be out of stock so it's been a bit of a nightmare to verify and track down.

Has anyone fitted one of these and can give some tips, please? (eg total coolant bleed or 'just' heater bleed? etc)

Thanks in anticipation

Yep, part replaced (and fully bled) now.
Grateful thanks for all the prompt and sound advice.

I have just got one from Browns & Gammons after mine failed last year and had to bodge it with a four way connector as there were none available at the time

https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/mgtf- ... -per000150

Yes, in the mad scramble to get one in Aug'21 I ended up with two and when I saw how fragile and under 'thick hose stress' that part is (as well as having two club-member pals with SAICS) I thought I'd keep a spare.

ps I'm just about to sell the TF and I have one of these still in packaging that I can send at a moment's notice if anyone's in a similar stressful situation...

Didn't someone find a solution with a brass connector?

I seem to remember reading somewhere that 'talkingcars' might have mentioned something about it might be a good idea to copy one in brass?

Two years ago, (or is it three, Covid makes my memory fail !), I had the same failure and the garage replaced the plastic part with a three way cast iron gas connector suitably modified with connectors for the various pipes. Due to its weight, this was then secured to the rear bulkhead area so it didn't waggle around. Although I had managed to get the original part, when I saw how crap it was, (a failure waiting to happen), I decided to keep the garage mod in place.

Yep, the brunt of the engine movement/waggling is taken right through that wafer-thin part.

Definitely a failure waiting to happen - so much so that after I replaced the broken part I grabbed a spare 'while I could' since most suppliers seemed to have sold out at the time...

Another 3D printing project for someone perhaps?