Handbrake Light

[gwp]

The Handbrake Warning Light is staying on most of the time, unless I press down on the Hand Brake.

Is this as simple to fix as tightening the nut on the handbrake cable connector in the transmission tunnel to tension the cable, it is very slack when the handbrake is released?

[Reckless Rat]

The handbrake warning switch is inside/underneath the handbrake lever. As far as I can tell there's no adjustment for the switch itself (unlike the footbrake switch) However, you may be able to resolve your problem by adjusting the cables at the handbrake but before you do make sure that the rear calipers are adjusting correctly. Normally the handbrake should "auto adjust" by pressing the footbrake hard 5 times. When adjusting the cables, ensure that there is 1-2mm of free play at the caliper lever or the brakes may bind.

[Geoff.F]

You can tighten the nut on the cable however this will probably be only hiding the problem with the stiction in the rear calipers. Chock the wheels, jack up each rear wheel, remove them and see if the handbrake actuating levers are returning.
Geoff F.

[stevejones]

I had this and it was the near side rear brake that had seized.

[richard1951]

it is most likly that one or both rear brake cylinders is sezed up

[yo55er]

Hi, GWP. My F has the same problem and so,it appears, do a lot of other owners. Providing your rear brakes are working ok when the handbrake is on or off, do what I have done and wrap a piece of thin bungee cord around the base of the lever and tie it tight somewhere forward and strong enough to pull the lever forward. Your light will go off every time. My F has had this contration on for 12 months. Maybe not text book, but it works.
Dave Hughes
Liverpool

[Bandit]

The handbrake lever relies on the return spring on each caliper to pull it back into 'rest' position and keep it there. If the lever isn't secure in the 'rest' position, it means the return springs on one or both of the calipers isn't pulling correctly. The return springs struggle when the caliper lever mechanism they are mounted on begins to seize. If they're no longer able to pull the lever back into the rest position, it wouldn't be wise to assume they're able to do their other job of pulling the piston back so the pads disengage from the disc when the handbrake is released. A dragging handbrake will at best increase fuel consumption & wear the pads, overheat & potentially warp the disc, and in severe cases boil the brake fluid leading to complete loss of braking, so early attention to free up the mechanisms on the calipers is highly recommended.

Dismantling & cleaning up the outer components, thorough lubrication around the moving parts, followed by sustained 'exercise' of the handbrake mechanism until the friction reduces to the point where you can move it easily with one finger & feel it hit its return stop with a definite 'click', will restore proper operation and the handbrake lever will return to 'rest' position as it should, and no adjustment is necessary on the cables. Fitting new calipers is the expensive and slightly quicker solution, but is unlikely to be necessary. Fitting secondhand calipers reduces the expense, but you have no way of knowing how long it will be before the same problem arises.

[richard1951]

well put Bandit
I assume the shortened vertion is that one or both of the rear calapers is sezed or sezing lol
Richard.

[Bandit]

I know there's a philosophy of 'spend your way out of recession', which I don't entirely agree with, but buying new bits when all that is needed is a bit of elbow grease (literally!) just seems, well, wrong. Admittedly, sub-zero temperatures do encourage a 'whatever is quickest' mind set

[gwp]

Thanks all, I am reasonably ok with basic car mechanicals - but am used to having a Haynes manual or similar to assist me

Not sure I want to go out and buy the full workshop manual, does any one have a guide or even a few photos so that I can make sure I am fiddling with the right bits!

Thanks

[Reckless Rat]

If you jack up a rear wheel and remove it you will be able to see quite clearly the handbrake mechanism on the rear of the brake caliper. All the moving parts need to be free. It's probably best to remove the carrier and check the operation of both the main piston and the handbrake mechanism. Remember that after removing the carrier that the main piston is threaded and has to be screwed back in when changing pads. The bits at the lever end can usually look after themselves. DO NOT operate the handbrake until you've replaced everything and reset the pads by applying the footbrake several times.

[gwp]

Thanks, I'll maybe brave the weather this weekend and have a look, if not I'll just have to put up with the light for a bit longer!

[Bandit]

It's not often you find a procedure that isn't in Dieter's site, David Aiketgate to the rescue -
http://www.the-t-bar.com/en/forum/21-da ... urbishtemp

The lever plate that David makes the 'push fit' remark about can indeed be *very* stubborn, repeated doses of penetrating fluid & heat cycling help but even then it can take a hefty hammering before it lets go. So it's worth seeing how succesfully you can free up the lever movement just by exercising it once the return spring is off, using big screwdrivers to force the lever through its range of movement or alternatively have an assistant pulling up and releasing the handbrake while you 'help' the lever move. If that's enough to restore smooth & unrestricted movement of the lever then packing some copper grease in behind the lever plate to stop any more moisture getting in will allow you to schedule a proper overhaul & re-grease of the caliper in the short season (sometimes called summer)