TF Race Car Build
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- Rob Bell
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- Model of Car: MGF 1.8i + MGF Shed!
Re: TF Race Car Build
You've been brave with the removal of the inner door pressing! Hat's off to you!
I guess you'll be running without any weather gear?
Where did you get that wire? I presume its a bowden cable? I've been thinking of doing the same (or very similar) on Project Shed.
Liking the oil cooler arrangement
I guess you'll be running without any weather gear?
Where did you get that wire? I presume its a bowden cable? I've been thinking of doing the same (or very similar) on Project Shed.
Liking the oil cooler arrangement
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Rob Bell wrote:You've been brave with the removal of the inner door pressing! Hat's off to you!
More elbow room and less weight
I guess you'll be running without any weather gear?
Not sure what you mean Rob, I have a hard top and will make 4mm lexan windows.
Where did you get that wire? I presume its a bowden cable? I've been thinking of doing the same (or very similar) on Project Shed.
B and Q steel wire - comes in various thickness's and some electrical crimp on ring connectors and a rivet at the lock end.
Liking the oil cooler arrangement
- Rob Bell
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- Posts: 14438
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:36 pm
- MGF Register Region: South East
- Model of Car: MGF 1.8i + MGF Shed!
Re: TF Race Car Build
My experience with 4mm Lexan was not a happy one. Two main problems - both of which are potentially surmountable I think:
1. The glass windows are curved;
2. The windows are frameless.
4mm is the Blue Book recommendation for lexan replacing glass. Although thicker, it is lighter (by a couple of kilos for the same size) but also still flexible (not good). I mounted my DIY cut lexan window in the original window lifts. Attempts to bend it were fruitless because of the lack of appropriate kit (there is a fair amount on bending lexan on the internet - it's harder to do compared to perspex: you need to let the lexan de-gass and heat the whole sheet; I didn't have an oven large enough to do this at home). Therefore I had a flat sheet that could (just) be made to fit the seals, but not particularly well, and the window would pull away from the seals at speed.
A curved lexan sheet would be better: the curvature would prevent some of the air pressure-induced movement I suspect. These could be made professionally (there are a few companies that specialise in this). A quick look on the internet reveals that a quotation for this in 2008 was £95 per window (Plastics 4 Performance, circa 2008 - posted by Ben on MG-Rover.org forum).
The movement of the window could be arrested by adding in supports - a couple of alloy support struts (something like that found on some TVRs) would probably do the trick. This was the solution on MGB racers (just found this link - http://www.acwmotorsportplastics.co.uk/ ... pport.html - looks easy to DIY). Because you are fixing the windows in position, this would be the best solution - and I guess you'll add a small sliding air vent?
Sitting in queues waiting for sprints/hill climbs - plus driving the car to and from events means that I am rather more keen to retain fully opening windows - but I would like to revisit the idea of formed Lexan again, IF I can get it to work!
PS I have just asked ACW Motorsport plastics for a quote...
What hard top do you have? I have the Honeyborne Mouldings MGF racing hardtop replica. Nicely made and a decent price
1. The glass windows are curved;
2. The windows are frameless.
4mm is the Blue Book recommendation for lexan replacing glass. Although thicker, it is lighter (by a couple of kilos for the same size) but also still flexible (not good). I mounted my DIY cut lexan window in the original window lifts. Attempts to bend it were fruitless because of the lack of appropriate kit (there is a fair amount on bending lexan on the internet - it's harder to do compared to perspex: you need to let the lexan de-gass and heat the whole sheet; I didn't have an oven large enough to do this at home). Therefore I had a flat sheet that could (just) be made to fit the seals, but not particularly well, and the window would pull away from the seals at speed.
A curved lexan sheet would be better: the curvature would prevent some of the air pressure-induced movement I suspect. These could be made professionally (there are a few companies that specialise in this). A quick look on the internet reveals that a quotation for this in 2008 was £95 per window (Plastics 4 Performance, circa 2008 - posted by Ben on MG-Rover.org forum).
The movement of the window could be arrested by adding in supports - a couple of alloy support struts (something like that found on some TVRs) would probably do the trick. This was the solution on MGB racers (just found this link - http://www.acwmotorsportplastics.co.uk/ ... pport.html - looks easy to DIY). Because you are fixing the windows in position, this would be the best solution - and I guess you'll add a small sliding air vent?
Sitting in queues waiting for sprints/hill climbs - plus driving the car to and from events means that I am rather more keen to retain fully opening windows - but I would like to revisit the idea of formed Lexan again, IF I can get it to work!
PS I have just asked ACW Motorsport plastics for a quote...
What hard top do you have? I have the Honeyborne Mouldings MGF racing hardtop replica. Nicely made and a decent price
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Re: TF Race Car Build
The way they do it on bmw minis is with rod ends and threaded tube to induce the bend.
As another solution from ACW, I've got the same one as you just need to modify it to clear the cage at the bottom of the 'b' post.
As another solution from ACW, I've got the same one as you just need to modify it to clear the cage at the bottom of the 'b' post.
Last edited by flyingbanana on Mon Jun 06, 2016 2:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Rob Bell
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- Posts: 14438
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:36 pm
- MGF Register Region: South East
- Model of Car: MGF 1.8i + MGF Shed!
Re: TF Race Car Build
Yes - exactly. Sadly not compatible with a conventional opening window - although I have an idea that might work to pull in and support a fully closed window...
We had to modify my hardtop to fit over the cage too - Honeyborne - bless 'em - developed the hard top to sell to anyone with an MGF/TF, and didn't consider whether fitting to a car with a roll cage might be different! I bet a good number sold so far will have been to motorsport competitors and therefore a substantial number will have had to have been modified in the same way!
They also supply their hardtops with a hefty and rather clumsy looking seal. The original racing hardtops, on which this version is modelled, did not have these, and in fact had holes and gaps between the hardtop and rear deck - as shown in the attached pictures (taken at Silverstone over the weekend):
Point is, you can probably save over a kilo in weight by ditching them and improving cabin ventilation. I've kept part of the seal on mine, as it is a road car as well as race to keep the weather out, but might add extra ventilation (or even remove the heavy seal completely) later...
We had to modify my hardtop to fit over the cage too - Honeyborne - bless 'em - developed the hard top to sell to anyone with an MGF/TF, and didn't consider whether fitting to a car with a roll cage might be different! I bet a good number sold so far will have been to motorsport competitors and therefore a substantial number will have had to have been modified in the same way!
They also supply their hardtops with a hefty and rather clumsy looking seal. The original racing hardtops, on which this version is modelled, did not have these, and in fact had holes and gaps between the hardtop and rear deck - as shown in the attached pictures (taken at Silverstone over the weekend):
Point is, you can probably save over a kilo in weight by ditching them and improving cabin ventilation. I've kept part of the seal on mine, as it is a road car as well as race to keep the weather out, but might add extra ventilation (or even remove the heavy seal completely) later...
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Makes sense to increase the airflow as you have the engine behind you and in the cabin essentially. Did you get any more pics of the cup cars?
- Rob Bell
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Re: TF Race Car Build
No sadly. Most of the MGFs racing weren't Cup spec. This particular car had TF monosides, but was running MGF Hydragas suspection, but I couldn't see the rear hub design - and the front subframe wasn't MGF Cup spec as far as I could see.
A recommissioned MGF/TF Cup shell perhaps?
A recommissioned MGF/TF Cup shell perhaps?
- Rob Bell
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- Posts: 14438
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:36 pm
- MGF Register Region: South East
- Model of Car: MGF 1.8i + MGF Shed!
Re: TF Race Car Build
Any updates?
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Well I sorted the switch panel 2 weeks ago will get the pictures up.
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- Posts: 459
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- Rob Bell
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- Posts: 14438
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:36 pm
- MGF Register Region: South East
- Model of Car: MGF 1.8i + MGF Shed!
Re: TF Race Car Build
That certainly looks the part! Is that the final position for the fuse box too?
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Re: TF Race Car Build
More or less, moving the under bonnet fuse box makes life easier with everything in the cockpit. May have to fit an additional one for the switches I've installed for rain light, rad fan, demist fan, blower fan and camera. Moving the battery inside as well - makes for easier wiring up.Rob Bell wrote:That certainly looks the part! Is that the final position for the fuse box too?
- Rob Bell
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- Posts: 14438
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:36 pm
- MGF Register Region: South East
- Model of Car: MGF 1.8i + MGF Shed!
Re: TF Race Car Build
I am thinking of mounting the battery at the base of the unused spare wheel well - in the centre of the car and lower down
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- Rob Bell
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- Posts: 14438
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:36 pm
- MGF Register Region: South East
- Model of Car: MGF 1.8i + MGF Shed!
Re: TF Race Car Build
Which ignition wire did you interrupt for the FIA switch? There's a couple to choose from. I chose to break into the white ignition signal cable, but the black/yellow from the standard ignition switch would be the other. Mind you, there may not be an awful lot of the standard ignition wiring left by the looks of things!
What are the bank of switches for? Ignition and fuel pump are obvious! The others?
What are the bank of switches for? Ignition and fuel pump are obvious! The others?
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- Posts: 459
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Rob Bell wrote:Which ignition wire did you interrupt for the FIA switch? There's a couple to choose from. I chose to break into the white ignition signal cable, but the black/yellow from the standard ignition switch would be the other. Mind you, there may not be an awful lot of the standard ignition wiring left by the looks of things!
That will be the next task get the wiring diagrams out again, haven't interrupted anything - new part of the loom, the ignition switch goes to the start button and will run a wire from the loom which usually comes from the ignition barrel.
What are the bank of switches for? Ignition and fuel pump are obvious! The others?
rain light, rad fan, demist fan, blower fan and camera
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Re: TF Race Car Build
Managed to get all the rear subframe bolts in this afternoon - one of the front ones was not playing the game. Got the mgmania bell crank fitted although had to crimp the roll pin a bit so i could get started into the bell crank. Went to fit the 'rod ends' and what a surprise at least one of them - the vertical one is about 15-20mm to short, so will be on the phone to them tomorrow - not impressed. I've managed to find a solution on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-TFM-M6X15- ... 1536320016 or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-TFM-M6X18 ... 3641.l6368. Not expensive, but that's not the point
- Rob Bell
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- Posts: 14438
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:36 pm
- MGF Register Region: South East
- Model of Car: MGF 1.8i + MGF Shed!
Re: TF Race Car Build
Those spacers should do the job nicely - but as you say, it shouldn't really be necessary?