The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

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The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:06 pm

Introduction

So, why The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Well, I have done a lot of reading on this, looking at lots of guides on the subject across the net, and have taken bits from the best of them, and put them together in a sort of “best of” for my guide.
Also, I will take you through ALL stages (split into separate posts), so even the most reluctant individual will feel they can do this with ease!

Actually, this refurb goes back months, to when I first got my TF last December
The wheels were all marked to some degree, but since it has been in my possession, I have managed to add a substantial amount to the passenger side wheels – particularly the back one! It’s those darned high kerbs you see.
The "still to do" wheel
The "still to do" wheel
So the first question was do I have a go myself, or get them done professionally.
Looking at prices for a professional job, it was averaging £50 a wheel. With this in mind, and the fact that I felt I could do the job to a reasonable standard myself – I decided to give it a go.
Also, any scuff marks done after the refurb can easily be repaired by me, as I will have the correct colour paint to match – and I wouldn’t be looking at another £50 bill to get a wheel done again by a professional.

Everytime I kerbed the wheels, I filled the damage with Evo-stik Super Fix Putty from Halfords and sanded it so it was smooth (save me a job later eh?) – this went on throughout the winter months.

I was waiting for some warmer weather so I could get the wheels off and do a proper job, and it was a good job I had waited, as the putty had flaked and dropped out in the meantime – I wasn’t going to buy any of that stuff again! :thumbsd:

I had quite a lot of outlay to begin with as I had no way of raising the car – hence I needed a trolley jack and some axle stands, and a good quality torque wrench to get the wheels back on at the right torque, and a socket set for the wrench. Total outlay here was £130.

I ordered the primers and clear coat on the internet. The colour paint was bought at Halfords, along with a tub of copper grease, a tin of cellulose thinner, and some filler (details in the guide).

So I was all set to go! :thumbsu:

(more to follow very soon)
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:50 pm

Day One

Wheels-Off Stage

(Most of you can safely skip this part – I have included this bit here for anyone who hasn’t jacked up and/or taken a wheel off before)

1. You will need a car jack, axle stands, wheel brace, wheel chocks (I used bricks), and your locking wheel nut socket.

2. Make sure the car is on a level surface (no steep inclines), and put the handbrake on.

3. Chock the back wheels if jacking the front up, and the front wheels if jacking the back up, to stabilize the car while it’s off the ground.

4. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly - only about half a turn - so that you don’t have to place great turning force on the jack later which could then in turn possibly displace the jack and damage the car. If the nuts are really tight (mine were) then either try a longer wheel brace or place some piping over the smaller brace to extend it - I broke them loose with a bit more force!!!.

5. Put a piece of folded card or similar (I used a chamois leather) on the jack saddle (this will prevent any metal to metal chaffing). Then, place the jack under the jacking point of your car (I had to use a reinforced bit of the sill, as I couldn’t get the trolley jack under the car).
Turn/pump the jack handle until it is in place and connecting with the jacking point. Carefully and slowly continue to lift the car using the jack. Any creaking is to be expected. Lift until you can place an axle stand under one of the longitudinal members of the subframe. Once the axle stand is in place, slowly let the jack down. If you are removing the other side wheel, repeat this process.
Axle Stand Under Drivers Side Of Car
Axle Stand Under Drivers Side Of Car
Axle Stand Under Passenger Side Of Car
Axle Stand Under Passenger Side Of Car
7. Ideally the best way to remove the wheel nuts is the left and right nuts then the bottom nut and finally the top nut. Take the weight of the wheel while carefully removing the last nut.

8. If the wheel refuses to dislodge at this point, carefully strike the bottom of the wheel with the palm of your hand, and it should come off.

Once the wheel is off, the centre cap, marked with the MG logo, can easily be removed prior to commencing work on the wheel. Just push it out from the back of the wheel. It should pop out pretty easily as it is held in place with clips.
Put the caps and the nuts in a safe place.
The Nuts And Caps In A Safe Place
The Nuts And Caps In A Safe Place
This refurb will take place with the tyres still on the wheels. I am not qualified or indeed have the tools to remove a tyre or replace it – only a qualified person should do this.

(more to follow soon)
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Tue Jun 12, 2012 6:10 pm

Day One (continued)

Cleaning Stage


First things first – make sure the wheel is clean all over. Get it in a big tub of water, or even the bath, and give it a good going over with washing up liquid and one of those green scouring pads.
When this stage is finished the wheel should be clean enough to eat you dinner off it! (but make sure you wash it again afterwards). ;)
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Wheel In Bath
Wheel In Bath
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Tue Jun 12, 2012 6:21 pm

Day One (continued)

Sanding Stage

Once dry, sand the wheel all over with 240 grit wet & dry to key the surface prior to priming – it won’t matter about removing the original paint, the main concern is achieving a surface the primer can stick to. Make sure the finished surface is smooth.

It is preferable to use the wet & dry wrapped around a rubber to act as a sanding block, however my alloys have a lot of curved areas, so I used the wet & dry with my fingers for the most part.
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Sanding Down The Wheel
Sanding Down The Wheel
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by Rob Bell » Tue Jun 12, 2012 6:25 pm

Not sure I'd be Mr Popular if I was caught washing wheels in our bath! :lol:

Great guide so far - looking forward to the rest of it :thumbsu:

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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:12 pm

Day One (continued)

Filler Stage

Remember when sanding to try and get as far behind the rim of the alloy as possible - and this might mean letting the tyre down to achieve this. I was fortunate in that my alloy had a prominent rim so I didn't need to let any air out at all.

You may not need to do this next part, but if there are any imperfections or gouges still present after the sanding stage, these can either be sanded out, or better still, filled with UPOL Quick Sand (£8.49 from Halfords), which after application, is ready to be sanded in about 20 minutes.
UPOL Quick Sand Filler
UPOL Quick Sand Filler
Use the Easy Sand at a ratio of about a golf ball size of filler, to a pea size of hardener and mix it up well (I didn’t use anywhere near a golf ball size, but you get the idea).

Mixing the filler
Mixing the filler
Use the filler sparingly, or it’ll be more work for you to sand it flat once it’s dry.

Sand it down with 240 grit wet & dry so it’s nice and smooth.

Finally wipe off any dust that has accumulated on the wheel (pay particular attention to the rims).

Notes: UPOL Easy Sand has a strong smell about it - like Evo-Stik but it's good stuff and well recommended!
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:14 pm

Rob Bell wrote:Not sure I'd be Mr Popular if I was caught washing wheels in our bath! :lol:
The trick is to do it early in the morning, Rob - and wash the bath afterwards because it gets in a right state! ;)

Steve
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by S67SOK » Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:29 pm

Great Thread,
This is my next job so I am going to follow with interest. :thumbsu:

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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:18 pm

Please excuse any delay with the rest of this, as it is taking an AGE to get the next post to upload - I have been trying for the last half-hour!!!

It's OK with text only, but the pics takes forever!
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:42 pm

Day One (continued)

Masking Stage

First, a note about timescale here. I started jacking up the car at 6:00AM and it's now 12:00PM so a good six hours so far to do two wheels!

Before the primer spraying can commence, it’s necessary to mask off any parts of the wheel you don’t want to paint. Use a combination of masking tape and newspaper and take your time to get this bit right or you’ll be sorry later.
I was fortunate that I could get the masking tape well behind the rim of the alloy without any need to let the tyre down. If yours is more flush, you probably already let some air out before the sanding - didn't you?
Get The Masking Tape Behind The Rim!
Get The Masking Tape Behind The Rim!
P1000583.1.jpg (123.95 KiB) Viewed 1411 times
This is what we are aiming for here - get that tape as far behind the rim as you can, as we want to be spray painting as much of the rim as is possible. We also don't want any paint on the tyre, so get that tape stuck to the rubber!

I had some masking tape already, but knew I would run out of it, so had earlier bought some more from Halfords.

The original tape stuck well to the rubber, but the Halfords tape was cheap (and I don't mean the price) and nasty, and reluctantly stuck after much pressing - even then it kept coming away, and I had to repeatedly press it down. :x

Notes: make sure your masking tape is sticky!

With the masking tape in place, get a page of newspaper, fold it in half, and then stick the resulting strip to the masking tape on the rim. Now bend the newspaper strip over the tyre and secure the other end with some tape on the back of the alloy.
By now the Halfords masking tape was refusing to stick to anything, so I switched to sellotape.
Stick each newspaper strip to its neighbour with some tape, overlapping each one slightly, as you work around the wheel, until the whole of the tyre part is covered.

View Of Wheel From Front
View Of Wheel From Front
View Of Wheel From Back (with "Helper")
View Of Wheel From Back (with "Helper")
Note that there is a circle of card inside the wheel - I cut this out and secured it there as I wasn't spraying the back of the alloy - only about an inch into the inner wall. Also, you can just make out some masking tape where the card meets the inner wall of the alloy - I went around the inner wall with a strip of masking tape because I was aiming for a hard line there. If you are not too fussed about the back just leave it.

Just remember cover everything you don't want painting!
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Wed Jun 13, 2012 6:30 pm

Day One (Continued)

Etch Primer Stage

With the wheels all wrapped up I headed outside with them - fully intending to spray them in the open air. However, there was a spit of rain in the air (as usual), so I used the garage instead.
In hindsight this was much better, as there is no wind to carry the paint, no bugs or bits of whatever floating around in the breeze to get on the paint - so I would recommend you do this in the garage.

Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics of me spraying the wheels as I am not an octopus, and anyway I was concentrating on doing a good job, as a lot of people with be clocking the finished product eh? ;)


So, the next thing to do was spray the wheels with ONE coat of etch primer, which will adhere well to the alloy and provide a good base prior to coats of normal primer.

I used UPOL Etch Primer, as UPOL aerosols have a good reputation and I can personally vouch for this too! (they have a different spray nozzle than your average rattle can)
I bought two cans of 500ml UPOL etch primer (only really need one though), two cans of 500ml UPOL grey primer and two cans of 500ml UPOL clear coat - I ordered these online at DB Paints, and had them in a couple of days. Total cost here was just short of £40 so not bad at all.

http://www.dbpaints.co.uk/

The UPOL Range I Bought
The UPOL Range I Bought
The etch primer and grey primer cans look the same, so I used a marker pen to put an "X" on the top of the etch primer cans.

There is no need to flat the etch primer with wet & dry – indeed doing so will most likely take the etch primer off. If the spray can throws up any blobs on your work, carefully flat down with DRY 1200 grit wet & dry before applying the normal primer (I didn't get any with the UPOL sprays).

My method of spraying is somewhat unique (I’ll call it quarter spraying). With the wheels flat on the floor, I sprayed lightly, about a foot away, over the alloy at a 45 degree angle starting at the top of each wheel, sweeping left and right across the surface working my way down, for about 12 seconds. Start each sweep off the alloy, and finish the sweep off the alloy thus giving a more even coat. Remember – light coats only (we don’t want any runs).
If you have positioned your wheels so you can walk around them, then all the better - I was in a corner so had to keep turning mine (not so good if the masking tape starts to come off - and it did!).

Spray the wheel first facing north using the method described above, then spray again over the alloy facing east. Now allow 15 minutes to dry. Spray again facing south, and finally facing west. This constitutes ONE coat (four “quarter coats”), and it gives a good all-round coat. It also helps to prevent runs as you are spraying lightly.
Wait another 15 mins, and proceed to the next stage....

I had to spray north, then east....wait 15 mins, then turn the wheels half a turn and spray north and east again (you get the idea).
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:01 pm

Day One (continued)

Normal Primer Stage

Next, spray THREE coats of normal primer, over the etch-primer, leaving approximately 15-20 minutes between each coat.

Depending on whatever colour you have chosen for you finished wheels you will need either white primer (for lighter colours) or grey primer (for darker colours). I used UPOL grey primer.

Again, as with the etch primer coat, I used the quarter spraying method. Light coats remember! (see the etch primer stage above for details).

Lightly sand between coats two and three with DRY wet & dry 1200 grit. Do not wet-sand the primer.

Leave to dry overnight – preferably 24 hours (I decided to bring my wheels indoors, rather than leave them in the cold garage overnight. That, and I didn't want anybody nickin' 'em). ;)
The Primed Wheel
The Primed Wheel
Notes: If something lands in the paint mid spray - leave it, then flat it out before the next coat, or you might be able to just pick it out with a sharp implement. (a very small piece of foliage landed on my paint, but managed to carefully pick it out once the paint had dried using the point on a screw!).

The UPOL paint has a VERY strong smell (it's worse than the Halfords rattle cans), and should not be inhaled (I used a mask, but eventually discarded it in favour of holding my breath while spraying in the garage, then going outside for more air!!!).

Oh... and don't forget to wear some protective clothing while spraying.
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:13 pm

Day Two

Painting Stage

Well, that's the worst of the work out of the way now. All told it took about 12 hours from start to finish for Day One - that included a lot of waiting for coats of primer to dry though!

When the primer has been allowed to dry overnight, it’s time to add some colour to the alloys. Spray at least THREE coats of your chosen colour of paint, leaving approximately 20 minutes between each coat (I did three coats and was happy with the coverage, but whatever you are happy with).

Again I used the quarter spraying method. Light coats remember! (see above).

Lightly sand before applying the final coat with WET wet & dry 1200 grit.

Leave the last coat about an hour, then proceed straight to the clear coat stage - apparently this will give a more glossy finish.
Notes: If something lands in the paint mid spray - leave it, then flat it out before the next coat.
By the way, I was using the cellulose thinner to soak the rattle can nozzles in after I had finished spraying - stops them blocking.
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:35 pm

Day Two (continued)

Clear Coat Stage

Giving time for the final colour coat to flash off, but not fully cure before applying the clear coat will produce a glossier finish to your alloy (apparently). Care must be taken here that no dust or other contaminants have landed on the colour coat before spraying the clear coat.

Apply at least THREE coats of clear coat, leaving approximately 20 minutes between coats (I did three coats).
Once again I used the quarter spraying method. Light coats remember! (see above).
Leave to dry overnight – preferably 24 hours.

I actually left the wheels about an hour to dry, then removed all the paper and masking tape (it was like unwrapping a present on Christmas Day) :santa:
Then brought them indoors for the night.

Was well pleased with the results - and this was a first attempt too! :D

Notes: If something lands in the clear coat mid spray - leave it, then flat it out before the next coat.
Apparently, aerosol lacquer has a tendency to dry milky if applied cold – I was taking no chances, so I heated the can in a warm bucket of water before attempting to spray.

By the way, I neglected to say about my colour choice... I wanted a dark grey for my black car - thought it would give a more "stealth" appearance and show up my red brake calipers a bit more. I went for Peugeot Graphite Grey, and bought two 300ml cans (which is just about enough to do two wheels) from Halfords (£15).
The Colour Aerosol
The Colour Aerosol
P1000600.1.jpg (106.05 KiB) Viewed 1405 times

The Nearly Finished Wheel
The Nearly Finished Wheel
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The Close-Up
The Close-Up
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:40 pm

Day Three

Polishing Stage

If you haven't already done so, remove all newspaper and masking tape from the wheels.

Once the clear coat has dried - overnight minimum, LIGHTLY sand the surface with WET wet & dry 2500 grit.
And don't forget to sand the inside of the alloy while you're at it, where the paint has come through.
Use a good quality wax to finish off, and buff up to a high shine.

Replace the centre cap on the wheel.
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:53 pm

Day Three (continued)

Refit the wheel

All that remains now is to refit the wheel to the car.
Apply some copper grease to the threads before putting back the wheel, as this will help to stop the nuts from seizing. Also apply a small amount of copper grease around the bottom of the nut (around the conical shaped surface).
Carefully offer up the wheel and locate on the threads – push it up to the mating face.
Screw each of the nuts, including the locking nut onto the threads by hand.
Use your wheel brace to tighten up (not fully) each nut in a cross pattern (i.e. if you have four nuts tighten the top nut, then the bottom, then the left then the right.
You will find the wheel starting to move as you tighten each nut up – we will tighten fully once the car is off the axle stands.
Repeat for the other side of the car if you have the other wheel off as well.
Now get your trolley jack and pump it up so the saddle locates on the reinforced piece of the sill (a piece of folded card or similar on the jack saddle will prevent any metal to metal chaffing)
Carefully continue pumping until the car has lifted enough for you to be able to remove the axle stand.
Now SLOWLY let the trolley jack down.
Repeat, if necessary, on the other side.
Now use your torque wrench to fully tighten up the wheel nuts to the correct torque (100nm), once again in a cross pattern.
Remove the wheel chocks/bricks, and put back your locking wheel nut socket.
Finally, check your tyre pressures.

Job done!
Finito!!!!!
Finito!!!!!
In conclusion, I hope this guide has encouraged some to have a go yourself especially in these times of recession. I think it cost about £20 a wheel to do as opposed to £50 a wheel for a professional to do it, and I actually had fun doing it too!

Happy Refurbing! :)

Steve
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by Rob Bell » Wed Jun 13, 2012 8:47 pm

Absolutely outstanding write up, thanks so much for doing it! :thumbsu:

Also, great choice of colour - as you say, it really brings out the red calipers doesn't it? :)

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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Thu Jun 14, 2012 5:01 pm

Cheers Rob,

Glad you liked it, and if it helps others who were contemplating doing similar (like S67SOK), I'm well pleased ;)

I need at least three more consecutive days off work, then I can get cracking on the back wheels!

While I was spraying, it occurred to me that maybe I should spray the nuts as well. I eventually decided against that, because I thought it would be a good contrast with the graphite grey colour wheels, and it was. 8-)

Incidentally, unless someone wiser will tell me different, apparently, those alloys I have - the "Twist Of Pepper" alloys - only 50 were made, for the 85th anniversary edition.
My car was one of the latter 135's of the production line - not an anniversary edition, so I wonder how they ended up on my car?
Maybe taken of a crash damaged car? :?

Steve
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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by Rob Bell » Thu Jun 14, 2012 6:02 pm

They made rather more wheels than they did 85LE Steve - and some even ended up in the hands of the aftermarket (you can/could buy them new from the MGF Centre IIRC). Hence, MG Motors obviously decided to use up stock when building the last batch of TF135s - and subsequently some were fitted, as yours is, with those rather nice "Twist of Pepper" alloys :)

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Re: The Definitive Alloy Refurbishment Guide?

Post by MGTF_avengers » Thu Jun 14, 2012 6:06 pm

Well... Not as rare as I thought then Rob.
Do you happen to know how many were actually manufactured?
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